Concerned clutch may be going

[Roden]

You will need to bleed fluid through until it runs clean. A cotton bud may be useful to clean out the master cylinder, to get it the nooks and crannies.

You will need some clear plastic tube that is a snug fit over the bleed nipple, a spanner to fit the nipple and a jar with about half an inch of brake fluid in the bottom.

Cover your tank and any exposed paintwork in case of a spill. Tie a cloth strip around the master cylinder to soak up any dribbles.

Push the tube onto the bleed nipple. Put the other end in the jar so that it is immersed in the fluid, this will prevent air being sucked back up.

Carefully squeeze the clutch lever in. Don't pull it in too quick as fluid will shoot up like a fountain and make a mess.

With the lever pulled to the handlebar, crack loose the nipple, that is, just crack it. As the nipple is loosened, fluid will be expelled through the tube along with gunk and air bubbles. From what you are describing, it will probably look orange and murky. Watch carefully until the fluid almost stops flowing and tighten the nipple. No need to over do it. Release the clutch lever, give it a couple of gentle strokes then repeat the procedure.

You will have to do this many times to push out all the crap, at least half a bottle of fluid. You will need to keep the fluid level above the bottom of the reservoir so air doesn't enter. You will be able to control the flow of the fluid being expelled by how much you loosen the nipple. You'll get a feel for it. When you are finished, give the nipple an extra nip up, again, don't go crazy on it, it can break or round off if too much force is exerted.

Don't be tempted to reuse the old fluid even if it looks ok, it will be contaminated.

If you're lucky, this will fix your problem. Sometimes the slave cylinder is so gunked up that it can't be flushed out and has to be stripped and cleaned. Its not hard to do but try bleeding first.

I hope this is helpful, please excuse me if I have told you stuff you already know, I'm not sure of your level of expertise!

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Cheers,

Roden

[Professor_D]

Roden, big thanks! This is perfect info. Some of this is mentioned in the Haynes book, but your instructions are much better.

I'll let you know how it goes.

D

[sailfish]

Just posting a heads up on alternatives to brake fluid for clutches. My clutch master weeped and a single drop blew back, landing on the tank. I now have a dime sized spot of missing paint on the tank. Mineral oil or silicone brake fluid will spare you this grief. Both work since the clutch hydraulics don't have to deal with any heat.

[triumph.rider]

Hmm,

I would certainly say that if your not sure about it DONT DO IT!!!!

Brakes are fairly simple if you know what your doing, but if you dont then you can be asking for trouble, especially when you need them and they arnt there!!!!!!

Brake bleeding and fluid changing can be buggers, especially if like me you still have the splitter in after your master cylinder. The sludge is dirt and breakdown in the fluid, which happens as the fluid gets hot and cold from braking.

Over time brake fluid absorbs moisture which leads to the brakes getting softer. Brake fluid is very difficult to compress, which is why it works well in brakes, but the moistre it gathers over time makes the brakes less responsive and "softer"

The worst case scenario is to get air trapped in your brake hoses, as air is easily compressed (and it contains moisture) this will also lead to your brakes being poor.

If you want to change the brake fluid and your not sure, get your favourite mechanic to change it for you, but certainly dont do it if your not confident.

Hope this helps

oh and all these problems can occur with the fluid in the clutch hoses as well, obviously though if you make a pig of it, your clutch aint gonna work as Mr Bloor intended



Daz

[Roden]

Fair comment triumph.rider but really, it ain't rocket science and it is the clutch professor is working on. Why pay your hard earned dosh to someone when you can do it yourself?

I agree if you have absolutely no clue, leave it to a professional but I would encourage anyone to have a go at simple maintenance jobs and as skills and confidence grow, tackle the more complex tasks.

Professor has his manual and assistance from all the people here on this forum, he'll be fine.

Cheers,

Roden

[wiayeman]

I managed it and I'm thick as pig's proverbial

[trypcil]

I use a mighty vac, for brake and clutch bleeding - it's ok a bit fiddley and not perfect by any ... Stretch. Anyone use those 'Speed bleeders'? I hear they're pretty good!

[KitNYC]

I use & enjoy (?) Speed Bleeders. I've heard they're problematic when first filling from dry, but I've never had a problem myself.

Cheers,
-Kit

[Roden]

I (tried to) use speed bleeders on a car years ago but I didn't get great results, just didn't trust them. I ended up doing it the old fashioned way, with my wife getting cranky at me as I instructed her to "push the pedal down, hold it, hold it, release" at least a hundred times!
I must be set in my ways.
Maybe they have improved these days?

Bikes are easy to do single handed anyway.

Cheers,

Roden

[Ben Rawlinson]

It is a boring old job and at worst you end up with a clutch that doesn't work - not quite so critical as brakes.......but it really is not difficult.

Follow Roden's instructions to the letter and you will be a happy bunny.

Dear Haynes - give Roden a job - that has to be the clearest set of instructions for a non trained mechanic I've ever read.
I'm still running the same clutch plates at 151,000 miles - I switched then all round at 80k when it slipped for a bit - cured the thing although advice is always not to do such things. hem hem......