Front and rear stands!???

[trypcil]

Looks a bit wobbly to me! Anyone know what the inside diameter in mm's is, of the headstock?

[Fridgehq]

Belive me the bike is solid. I have completly stripped my head bearings with this set up with no problems.

[MotT3]

I use the Abba stand for maintenance it is a usefull tool, you can remove one or both wheels, change the shock or remove the swing arm as well as headstock work..

I wouldn't use it as a day to day stand though..

[trypcil]

So I bought the front and rear stands from that link - turned out to be $180 inc posting etc... - about the cost of a rear tyre and a beer - the inside dia is 20mm by the way! I'll let you know what they're like!

[trypcil]

...and quite without much fuss! Manhandling the bike by myself was a bit doolallye.... but up she went and the rear wheel came off nice and easy! The front jack even worked without me taking the fairing off(cbr94 1/4 piece and headlight), which was a bonus. However one of the M8x40 cap screws oval'd out on me so now I've got to drill it out so I can pull the axel out etc.... maddening! They're hardened aren't they, this ought'a'be fun! Anyway for $187 to the door, I'm thinking these stands are not bad value!

[Roden]

Hi tryp, do you mean the axle clamp bolt? They shouldn't be overly tight, only 20Nm.

It would be a high tensile bolt but it should drill ok. I did one on my starter motor that I though was going to be difficult but it came out like butter.

It also pays to loosen the axle nut before raising the front end, that has a bit more tension on it and might pull the bike over if off terra firma.

Cheers,

Roden

[trypcil]

Cheers there Roden,yes the axle clamp - in a minor rant on another thread I waxed whinging about my issue and 'Irlmike', suggested i hammer a Torx's into the bolt and hammer the end of an impact driver to see if that would surfice - seems like it might work, tomorrow's morning job, before a ride I hope.

[Roden]

Yes, indeed that might work as these bolts are not super tight.
Another option might be the end of a largish ezy-out which might grip in the socket head of the bolt.

If all else fails and you are handy with a welder or know someone who is, you could find a bolt that sits into the socket head and weld in place, just a good tack would do.

I have a machine at my work where some socket head screws are worn away to the point that the allen key doesn't grip - this is how I remove them, works a treat.

You would just have to be careful not to burn the surrounding area,
a 2-2.5mm electrode on about 60amps would be sufficient.

Cheers,

Roden

[trypcil]

Welding is an option but so is the 'drill and easy-out' procedure, although dicey - but a left hand drill might be beneficial here! Trouble is finding one locally in LA, of the right size - without spending a day traipsing about all over the place, probably end up on ebay - dang! Hopefully the drilling will loosen the bolt and it'll drill out, as it might and I won't have to use the easy out - or I could just get the forks serviced and let them worry about it! Nah! They'll mess it up, I'll have to do it myself.