A sure way of finding how - 'sufficient' - the stock suspension is, is by taking her to the track. Once you figure that 'too much travel' isn't good, you'll be figgerin' out what to do to sort it out! New springs, heavier oil 10 or 15wt, spacers and a static sag set up (
http://www.gostar-racing.com/informa...ion_set-up.htm ) - the rear, if working is fine, if you're below 200lbs. Sorting the handling is usually the last mod people do, whereas it's the best return for the buck! Sprag clutches, alternator bolts are the expected major issues - over the years the parts were updated and VIN # related - talk to your dealer, if he's good you'll find out if yours is updated. Otherwise keep your battery charged, use a battery tender and think about replacing the battery every 2 years. What happens is that because of the 123 firing order if you don't have enough cranking amps the engine 'might' want to 'bounce' off #3 and try to go backwards to # 2 and the sprag stops it as it were, which it shouldn't. The symptoms are a distinctive clacking and a failure to start soon after and $250 in parts + labour - a good battery will go a long way to prevent this! Alternator bolts have a habit of working themselves loose,or shearing themselves 'off' and creating a rattle - apparent at certain revs - with the potential for the bolt head to go errant and totally mess everything up - which means you won't have to worry about the sprag. The airbox on these bikes are almost at an optimum, so don't go down the road of pods and all that carving the box crap - others have and succeeded in only returning to near stock! K&N filter and insert removal is about it. These bikes are surprisingly agile for their size, with a good setup will surprise you more but flickable they're not, requiring a lot of body English and firm input to get rid of the chicken strips!
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