Triumphrat

screene · 04-10-2008

I bought the Triumph valve shim removal tool but can't seem to get it to work. I've got 4 inlet shims to remove, but fitting the tool doesn't provide sufficient clearance to remove them. The legs of the tool don't appear to bear on the edge of the bucket as I expected, and I can't see how it's supposed to keep the valve open when you rotate the cam lobe to the closed position.

I'm also unable to see why there is a distinction between the inlet and exhaust valve sides of the tool - I've measured it and it appears to be completely symmetrical, so I can't see what difference it would make if it was reversed contrary to the stamped IN and EX marks. Also, what is the significance of the slight 'notch' at the bottom of the legs?

I bought this off Ebay in original Triumph packaging, but without instructions - are there any available? I've just been following the Triumph service manual.

Can anyone shed any light on this? I'm stumped, and extremely hacked off!

Roden · 04-10-2008

Hey screen, is it possible that it works by another method? It looks to me that the legs must bear on the shim bucket.

Rotate the engine so that the valve is open. The bucket should be pushed right down. Try and install the tool so that the leg is over the bucket and tighten it down. Rotate the engine so the cam comes off the bucket, if the leg is positioned properly it will hold down the valve and you will get the shim out. You might need a (dentists) pick and/or magnet to get the shim out.

I haven't done this before but thats how I would approach it.

Let us know what happens,

Cheers,

Roden

screene · 04-10-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roden

Hey screen, is it possible that it works by another method? It looks to me that the legs must bear on the shim bucket.

Rotate the engine so that the valve is open. The bucket should be pushed right down. Try and install the tool so that the leg is over the bucket and tighten it down. Rotate the engine so the cam comes off the bucket, if the leg is positioned properly it will hold down the valve and you will get the shim out. You might need a (dentists) pick and/or magnet to get the shim out.

I haven't done this before but thats how I would approach it.

Let us know what happens,

Cheers,

Roden

That's what I thought too - but the tool doesn't position the leg over the edge of the bucket, and there's not enough free play to make it so. Also, I suspect that if the leg of the tool was in that position the valve would be completely open, and I wouldn't be able to get underneath the shim with the pick.

And I thought that 70 quid's worth of Triumph tool would make the job easy!

Roden · 04-10-2008

Yeah, I see what you mean.

Is there a part of your tool that is missing, perhaps a radius piece that fits in that cut out and locates against the bucket?

Roden · 04-10-2008

If you were to slot the two mounting holes it would adjust over a bit further and the legs would contact on the bucket.

I know you shouldn't have to do that, but....

screene · 04-10-2008

Thanks for your thoughts. Frayed nerves feeling a bit better now, I'll go out and look again... maybe a washer on one side of the bolt that holds the leg in position would push it over a bit more and avoid the need to get the file out.

Roden · 04-10-2008

No probs, good luck with it. I know that Mot has also bought one of these tools, maybe he can shed some more light?

I'm interested in the outcome because I want to buy one also,

Gotta get some sleep,

Goodnight,

Roden

idahotb · 04-10-2008

Screene-
Take a look at this URL. He does a great job of explaining it. It is a fiddly procedure.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/valves/

I don't think it really matters which way round it is but I would orient it so the IN is on the intake side (toward the back of the bike) and the EX toward the front.

Hope that helps. Please share any tricks you discover in the process.

sailfish · 04-10-2008

As Idahotb put it, "...it's a fiddly procedure".

I would rate the tool as "good", not "excellent", but it's what we have to work with and it does work. It is machined with fairly loose tolerances so you need to make sure that everything is where it needs to be, it doesn't do it by itself.

Your third pic tells the story. The tip of the tool needs to be holding the bucket down, where in your pic it is resting beside the bucket. The corner of the tip fits on the rim of the bucket next to the shim. The relief milled into the tip is for clearance to remove the shim. There should be enough free play in the assembly of the tool to get the location right. Use the cam to fully open the valve then locate the tool as described to hold it open. Rotate the cam 180 degrees and pick the shim out, you'll have to overcome oil surface tension. I use a 90 degree pick sourced at the hardware store.

Be very careful rotating the engine. If over-rotated, the cam can bump the tool leg and bend it. The leg can be bent back.

screene · 04-10-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailfish

Be very careful rotating the engine. If over-rotated, the cam can bump the tool leg and bend it. The leg can be bent back.

Just been out and had another look. This time, I removed the crank cover and turned the engine with a spanner rather than the rear wheel, so I could see what was happening. The leg of the tool seems to be in position over the bucket, but as the bucket rises the leg slips off and is pushed outwards.

Maybe I need to try to bend the leg in a bit. Trouble is, it probably only needs to be 0.5 mm or so - hard to control. Putting a thin washer under one side of the leg bolt doesn't work, because the bottom of the leg is pushed too far over and would foul the shim. Also, I've got no chance with the other valve, because I can hardly see it.

I'm wondering whether it might be easier just to remove the camshaft like Haynes says.

Thanks for your advice guys. Mot, if you're online I'd be very interested in your experience. In the meantime, I'm going to pack it in and go down to the pub!