Valve shim removal tool problems

[Major Kong]

Hi Screne,
When you align the tool make sure that you have the correct bolts in the correct holes. The bolts for the legs are a different length from the bolts for mounting to the cam towers. If you fit the wrong bolt, and move the cams, you can scar the cam bearing surface.

The valve bucket holes (in the head) have a small notch. This notch is where the tool leg should fit and catch the bucket, keeping the spring compressed, after you rotate the cam. As I recall, the EX and INT orientation is for where the tool should be oriented to allow the legs into these notches.

I really would not remove the cams unless absolutely necessary.

Godspeed,
Kong

[screene]

Long bolts into the cam towers I assume - that's what I've been doing.

Are you sure about the tool legs fitting into the notches in the buckets? I thought the notches were just so you could get a pick in to lever the shims out.

[sailfish]

Originally Posted by screene

Are you sure about the tool legs fitting into the notches in the buckets? I thought the notches were just so you could get a pick in to lever the shims out.

Correct, the notches are for removing the shim. I don't think that you can get a shim out without using the notch.

[MotT3]

I second Sailfish there notches are to remove the shim...the riased edge is for the lip of the tool to catch the bucket as the valve is closed by rotating the engine via a breaker bar and socket or spanner not a ratchet..as this will give no control as the engine begins to turn.

As for the length of the bolts where etc...you have 15mm from the underside of the tool to the cam bearing surface blow...so looking at the tool with the bolts fitted through the mounting plate you can double check if it's all set up and safe.

The rotation of the engine is critical as if done wrong you will wind the cam straight into the shim tool leg..!

Method is as previously mentioned open valve (ie longest part of the cam egg facing down) mount shim removal tool and legs close valve via correct rotation of engine, shim removal tool catches edge of bucket, remove shim as described previously with pick also a magnetic pick up tool is helpfull as the are slippery buggers..

first time round I had the cams out...no great problems with that just rotate engine to line up with arrows on cam sprockets to the cylinder head correctly (pointing in towards each other) in conjunction with the timing mark on the ignition pick up sensor. remove the cam chain tensioner and top cam chain tensioner bar, poke a stick in onto the cam chain from the inside towards the back of the engine (basically to make sure tension has released from the chain) undo the cam caps from one cam at a time in a criss cross and remove one cam at a time noting which fits where and what way round. you'll need a wooden block to make sure the chain does't fall down the tunnel when you remove the second cam..

Installation is reverse but making sure you install the exhaust cam first and keep the chain run tight on the front run up to the cam chain sprocket, then the inlet all the while making sure you allignment marks are ok..

It's all a bit of a worry first time out but I'm quite happy whipping them out now (ooh eerr misses). I have just bought a shim removal tool off of ebay too..but the none Triumph manufactured one which does allow for leg adjustment forwards and backwards and up and down...I'll let you know if it works soonish, it will be no good for the S3 as it's cams out for that (already done waiting for the new bloody cams...where are you....!!!!)

Hang in there Screene you'll have her back together in no time..bit bloody nerve wracking pressing the starter for the first time after you've done it though..

[screene]

Thanks. Just had another look, I really can't see why I can't get the tool to line up, I don't think the legs are bent - in fact they look like they'd be hard to bend.

Plucking up courage to remove the cam, tool going back on Ebay.

[MotT3]

Here is another link for someone using the tool...maybe it has something in there we have missed ???

www.canyonchasers.net/shop/955i/valves.php

[screene]

Originally Posted by MotT3

Here is another link for someone using the tool...maybe it has something in there we have missed ???

www.canyonchasers.net/shop/955i/valves.php

Thanks Mot, I'd not seen that one. It didn't shed any light on the cause of my problem, but interestingly the last line says:

"Additionally, in order to speed up the valve adjust process, we may attempt cam removal for the next adjustment.".

Given that I need to replace 4 shims and they're all on the inlet side, that seems like the most sensible solution. After all, if I make sure I don't turn the engine while the cam's out, and I put it back in with the arrow pointing right, I can't go wrong .

[MotT3]

Sounds like a plan ;-)

[seumas]

I didn't have the tool when I did my valves. It wasn't that much trouble to pull the cams. Just make sure you don't rotate things while the cams are out and you'll be fine.

[Major Kong]

The notch in the bucket is to prise out the shim. The notch in the head is to orient the tool. See Below:

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/95...s/DSC01546.jpg



Kong