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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 05:38 AM
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Not sure I'd go with tube in this application. There's a good bit of sharp edged shearing/scissor acting on the rod at the sides, as you see in the picture. Tube might distort from this concentrated pressure point, and break in due course. A solid bar won't. Going out to 20mm completely resolved the matter on mine.


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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Felony View Post
I don't think he will find any old Chryslers in the UK in a breaker's yard. A 2X4 of hard maple or oak shoved in between those two side plates would work better than the rod supplied.
In this scissor action, no way I'd trust a couple of 2x4s to stay in place.

Old Chryslers would be pretty rare, but you might find an old VW Beetles, or Renault 4, both of which used torsion bar suspensions. Tho' I supposed any bit of front anti roll bar, common on near all cars, would do the job.


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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks to everyone who has taken the time to reply. There's some good advice and ideas put forward. I'm waiting to hear from a couple of steel and tube suppliers, though I'm guessing that small orders are not their thing.

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Originally Posted by IrlMike View Post
Tho' I supposed any bit of front anti roll bar, common on near all cars, would do the job.
A length of old torsion bar or anti roll bar would be easy to come by and I like the idea of drilling out to 20mm. My only concern would be how close the larger locating holes came to the edge of the side steel they are drilled in.

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 02:57 PM
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I would definitely drill a bigger hole and put a thicker tube through it. Try a local engineering company, you may be able to get an off cut
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 04:55 PM
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The idea that hollow tube is stronger than bar is a myth. It is stronger than bar weight for weight, yes, but hollow tube that is lighter and stronger is unfortunately thicker/wider - larger diameter. So there'd be more possibility of getting the holes too close. And tube in this application, where you're squeezing it with a point load from the side plates, doesn't look good.

By far the easiest is to get a length of drill rod - O1 steel - silver steel, which is pretty tough in the unhardened state. Don't harden it - just use it as it comes. For really hard and tough you'd look for a length of chrome-moly or chrome-vanadium - that's the stuff they make socket set t-bars out of. That's getting a bit pricey though.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 06:11 PM
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Hey how about an weight lifting bar, most likely don't have to drill out the frame.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 04:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone.
As it happens I've just fixed the lift with a mix of the suggestions put forward. Scrap yards wanted silly money for a torsion bar and wouldn't cut a length for me anyway. I bought a length of EN24T round bar for £8 from a local supplier and reemed out the locating holes on the lift to accomodate it. Problem gone.

Thanks for all for your suggestions and particular thanks to IrlMike, I wouldn't have thought of drilling out the lift to take a thicker bar.

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Last edited by Sixties Lad; 03-21-2017 at 04:33 AM.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack coff View Post
Hey how about an weight lifting bar, most likely don't have to drill out the frame.
I lift and none of my bars are 16mm or 5/8" in diameter.
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