Triumphrat

MotT3 · 03-16-2008

I've been impressed today by three things..

1. I've been cleaning the Alcon 6 pots today that came on the Sprint Sport, they have had no TLC at all for about 7-8 years !!! obviously ridden through winters etc etc...not only will they clean up like new..but the pistons on those things are amazing, made out of some sort of coated metal (ceramic ???) they clean with a wipe of a cloth and can be pushed in with finger pressure like squishing tomatoe paste !! so it's not that bike brakes seize and degrade because the basic design is wrong just that manufactures won't use expensive materials ? Took me half the time to do 12 pistons as it did on the Tokico's and they only had 3K on them !!!!

2. The bike cover I bought from Lidle for 9 quid is doing a grand job.

3. The Magimix (new toy in the kitchen) chomps through stuff like a knife through butter !!!

I can now drink beer and cook chillie with a content heart and know all is well with the world !!!

screene · 03-16-2008

Glad you're having fun MOT.

I'm in a slightly better frame of mind having got my carbs and airbox back on

and poured some cider, but I'm a bit unsure whether the chock cable needs attention on my Trident. Since I reattached it, when I push it back in the springs on the card assembly don't seem strong enough to take up the slack. Do you think I need to lubricate it? Do choke cabled normally need this?

Cheers.

threepot · 03-16-2008

Yes,Alcon brakes are excellent

MotT3 · 03-16-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by screene

Glad you're having fun MOT.

I'm in a slightly better frame of mind having got my carbs and airbox back on

and poured some cider, but I'm a bit unsure whether the chock cable needs attention on my Trident. Since I reattached it, when I push it back in the springs on the card assembly don't seem strong enough to take up the slack. Do you think I need to lubricate it? Do choke cabled normally need this?

Cheers.

Yes give it a lube and while your at it lube the throttle cable too as this and be slow to return too and keep the revs higher than you would like !!

We done on the carb air box job it is a pig...I'm just putting a K&N into a spare box I have for the Sprint as well as rebuilding the rear brake & cooking chille drinking beer etc...

Who said men can't multi task ?????

screene · 03-16-2008

One thing I found really hard with refitting the carbs was tightening up the locknut on the throttle cable. There's no space to get either a spanner or pliers in there... it made we wonder if there's a special tool. In the end I cut a piece out of a 10mm ring spanner and then heated it up to put a 90 degree bend in it, to make something that resembles a crow's foot spanner. Not perfect, but it enables me to get a bit more pressure on the nut than just fingers.

Roden · 03-16-2008

So is the plan for the Alcon calipers to go on Speedy and Sporty gets the Tokicos?

What other bikes were the Alcons used on, I don't think I've come across them before?

Seems like you scored well with your new scoot Mot...

Cheers,

Roden

MotT3 · 03-17-2008

Yup spot on the bling calipers on the S3 and the Tokico on the Sprint, I've got the Alternator off, and like you mentioned it is the heads that rust onto the alternator body not the threads into the thing...I whacked it with my small manuel impact driver until they started to move and then they come out by hand.

The nut on the end of the impeller was the same as yours not loose but not flush tight, the splines on the impeller have worn quite a bit and the play is too much for me to reuse. Thankfully the impeller splines seem to wear more than the alternator drive splines so a new impeller will be ordered and then a drill out job to M8, thread lock and a quick prayer..

Best part of £30 for a new impeller though...ouch !!!

Managed to bag a tank with cap, key and sender fuel tap etc on ebay for £10 so that kinda makes up for it I guess ;-)

I think I bought the bike for the calipers....the bike was just a bonus...!

Roden · 03-17-2008

I have a little bit of movement on the impeller, not enough to warrant a new one though. If it does work loose again I will get the new impeller but I think with a new bolt, washers and high strength thread locker, it should be ok.

My cush rubbers look ok but I'm replacing them and the o ring anyway, $16 total.

How are you going to tackle the drill and tap job on the alternator shaft?

Cheers,

Roden

MotT3 · 03-17-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roden

I have a little bit of movement on the impeller, not enough to warrant a new one though. If it does work loose again I will get the new impeller but I think with a new bolt, washers and high strength thread locker, it should be ok.

My cush rubbers look ok but I'm replacing them and the o ring anyway, $16 total.

How are you going to tackle the drill and tap job on the alternator shaft?

Cheers,

Roden

Yeah I'm still thinking of the best way..?? I have a pillar drill (drill press) but will have to see about securing the alternator so that it is central & upright, this will be the toughest part. I'll have to drill it with the impeller on so that I can lock the thing with maybe mole grips or something to stop it rotating, then while it's in the drill I'll pop an M8 tap in the drill chuck and wind it in by hand with a little downward pressure. Masking off may well also be in order to stop metal bits from falling into the alternator too.

I'll keep you posted....

sailfish · 03-19-2008

I oversized mine to an 8mm bolt also. The existing hole in the shaft will guide your bit. I just opened the hole up one bit size larger at a time, over and over, till I got to the correct diameter. Depending on the length of your bolt, you might need a bottoming tap to run threads to the bottom of the hole. And yes, using the impeller to hold the shaft works quite well. It's a relatively easy job, almost easier than reinserting the alternator without pinching the o-ring. DOH!