Trident carb overflow

[djw]

Today upon starting I had fuel pouring out the *left* side carb overflow tube, apparently trying to burn me up on this beautiful sunny day. The gushing stopped when I shut off the engine.

I'm also noticing an intermittant little "pop/poof", not loud, almost undetectable, which I *assume* is exhaust noise (backfire/misfire) every 3-5 seconds. Almost a metallic ping, but I have the stock cans.

What could be going on here, and what is the likely fix?

I am really getting to dislike multi-carb fuel delivery systems

[MotT3]

Float might be sticking open ??

[gfiandy]

I had exactly the same problem on my Daytona, it turned out to be the float chamber valves worn out. It was almost inpercieveable but the rubber ends on the valve had a slight shoulder in it allowing the fuel to leak past.

They are not that dificult to change but once you have done so remember to recheck the float level as the new needle valve rubber will have changed it. The most difficult bit is getting the carbs off and back on again in the first place.

It shuts off when you stop the engine because the petcock has a vacume shut off in it which prevents fuel getting to the carbs. If you want to be sure you can put the petcock to the prime setting and push the knob in (this bypasses the sut off). It will almost certainly leak when you do this.

Regards,
Andrew

[djw]

It looks like indeed the o-rings on the float assembly were/are shot, and have now been replaced, and carbs back together.

Since I have everything apart, I'm contemplating cutting the airbox cover in half just to the left of the backbone to make pulling the carbs easier next time. Dropping the carbs is such a pia on this bike. I'll probably try to fashion a seal by splitting some hose and fixing it with adhesive along one side of the cut edge.

I have a throttle cable to replace (broke the adjuster head off last time I had the carbs out. Any tips on cable replacement to make it easier? I hate to bust another $45 cable...

[djw]

I did end up cutting the airbox back cover at the backbone and sealing each half with a 4" length of black vinyl tubing split down the middle forming a bit of a gasket edge. What a tremendous difference a split airbox cover makes makes getting the carb rack back in place. Carbs go in first, then the front part of the airbox goes on, then the split airbox covers from each side. Easy peasy.

The o-ring replacement did do the trick. Runs perfectly now.

Thanks for the tips, the old o-rings on the float assembly were shot, old and dry. It is a wonder it worked at all.