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Old 06-01-2004   #1 (permalink)
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Has anybody ever used the Uni pod style filters on their Sprint? If so how did it work out? Did you have to re-jet? It looks to me like you could remove the dreaded airbox and just run Unifilter pods instead.

Looking for some input over it.
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Old 07-08-2005   #2 (permalink)
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Take a look through the Thunderbird /Adventurer forum where ditching the airbox, rejetting and fitting podded filters is one of the most keenly discussed topics.

I have done it on my 97TB (picture in TB gallery). The look will be fundamentally the same on other T300 models.

Before you ask the middle pod has to be crushed to fit otherwise its obstructed by the central frame spar.

The late model TB has the advantage of using superior (in my humble opinion) Keihin CVK carbs in place of the Mikuni's on the early model. So be careful that any jetting advice is appropriate for type of carb
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Old 07-08-2005   #3 (permalink)
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Take a look at the thread "It's not a submarine" in the Workshop forum and note Jimmy900's posts. Apparently messing with the air box on the classics range can find you some more power, but the airbox on the Sprint/Trophy/Trident/Speed Triple is a tuned resonator, and changing the flow will screw it up. Proceed with caution, and let us know how it turns out!



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Old 07-09-2005   #4 (permalink)
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Along with the fact that messing with the airbox can screw with the tune/performance, the airbox helps support the carb bank.

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Old 07-09-2005   #5 (permalink)
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Back in 1996 I sat and did 60 plus dyno runs trying to find the best combination of air box combinations, various plenum configurations to jet combinations and came to the conclusion that some mild jetting changes with the foam pod inserts removed were about as far as one could go, without compromising performance. Degreeing the cams
with notched sprockets has beneficial effects but doesn't last. The only real performance gains were the removal of the stock carbs and replacing them with 39 FCR's. This gave massive gains across the board, taking the hp from low 90's to 103 without jetting changes - straight bolt on with the given jets. Further dyno time allowed 109hp without compromise - this was in FL in summer ie sea level hot & humid. Since, with various pipes and using a SOTP dyno, greater increases were acquired - the bottom line in my experience is that you can only go so far, which isn't very, with the stock set up, apart from rideabilty(smoothness). The key to performance though is probably notched sprockets, but whether it's cam chain stretch or the notching slipping I'm not sure but the gains seem not to last???? The FCR's cost $1000, which cutting to the chase was the best bang for the buck enhancement - all the other tweaking was a waste of time but fun - with fcr's pods are all you can use as filters. Whatever you hear about FCR's being finicky is partly true, but rideabilty is fanastic - they are more sensitive to temp and altitude, this can to a greater degree can be factored in - a freer breathing exhaust is a good idea. Just to throw fuel on the fire :-D
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Old 07-11-2005   #6 (permalink)
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i toyed with the idea of going with filter pods but in the end it is not worth the aggravation. with practice you can have the airbox off in about 20 minutes; back on in another 20. and you don't have to do it very often.
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