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Tuneup tricks

1K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  zippythehog 
#1 ·
Ok, so the manuals (Factory and Haynes) say to disconnect the throtle cable before removing the carbs. I just swung them out of the way.

But then, well installing them. Hmm so I took off the metal clamps on the airbox rubbers. It wouldn't fit. So, I took off the rubber carb intakes and it just fit. But now, I can't get the carb boots in.

After walking away (so I don't do some dumb thing and break something) I got to thinking: maybe take the intake (carb to head) clamps off of the rubbers and squeeze them in.

Does anyone have prior experience that could shed some light on the process?

Thanks,
Zip
 
#2 ·
I just got done wrastling my carbs back on and can offer the following advice.
I don't want to be the object of any mirth at my own expense, so I won't tell you exactly everything that I did wrong to learn this stuff
1> Remember, the first thing in is the airbox. make sure it's positioned as far aft as it will go. Then the carbs.
2> Put the rubbers on the carbs first, then push the works onto the head. It's easier than the other way around.
3> Make sure that if you're replacing the carb-to-head rubbers, you have them biased in the right direction. They curve downwards, (smallest length being at the bottom.) Otherwise you'll get the carbs on but the airbox won't join.
4> The metal clamps on the airbox are fairly flimsy, and it's easier to pull out the screws and then put them down over the rubbers than it is to get everything together with them in place, since with them off, the rubbers can kind-of squish back and forth, allowing you the extra millimetre or two that you need. This is not the case with the carb-to-head clamps.
5> Mercurochrome doesn't sting near as much as merthiolate.

Also, I noticed years ago that the intake tubes look kind of like a habitrail (A plastic tunnel for hamsters, sold at pet shops). Well, sure enough, when I took the airbox apart to clean the K&N, there imbedded on the filter's mesh was Mr. Mouse, who had died a horrible death, along with some of his personal effects such as nut-shells, seed-husks and bits of string. Anyhow, wishing to avoid future tragedy and to keep PETA activists from torching my ride, I'm making a little end-cap of 1/4" wire mesh to keep garage vermin from inhabiting my intakes.
 
#3 ·
A trick I have employed since logic inspired me, and that is the use of thin plastic sheeting - you know those plastic for sale signs made of thin stiff plastic, that material is ideal, they're about 0.25mm thick. Tank off etc.... the carbs exposed, cable still attached undo all the clamps so both the air box and carbs are loose. By rocking the carbs they will free themselves of the manifold spigot rubbers, feed a strip of that plastic (12x4") in front so that the carbs will not re-enter the spigots. Then push the air box back and do the same with another strip of plastic between the rear of carb and the airbox rubbers- the carbs will slide out easily, then you can disconnect the throttle cable. To replace the carbs much the same procedure is performed but in reverse( :-D ), throttle cable on 1st - it may take a while to get the method to work but once understood life is easier. The carbs will go in between both the manifold rubbers and the airbox rubbers in place this way - suggest a bit of silicone lubricant on the surface of the plastic to aid the process - it will be tight but once mastered...... :)
 
#4 ·
Gentlemen,

Many thanks for your advice. I finally took off the metal clasps and just forced the intake rubbers on while the carbs were "in situ". Then, I replaced the metal clasps on both sets of rubers like Pendraig step 4. BTW, the mesh is a great idea.

Now, regarding the cam cover, if I could just figure out how much RTV is enough....

Thanks for the medical advice Pendraig. Since I have started the winter tune- up my two year old is fond of pointing out "Daddy Owwie".

Trypcil, great idea. I just couldn't work the lock nut on the carb cable to get it to release. So I ended up holding the carbs (mostly) or resting them on the old intake rubbers.

Zip
 
#5 ·
Release the lock nut at the top of the cable clasp that attaches the cable sleeve to the carb, then twist the main through screw 'til the bottom nut is all the way off the bottom - this will release the cable. Then open the butterflies by actuating the lever the cable end is attached to. Hold open the butterflies with a finger in one venturi - wiggle the cable out of it's hole - et Voila, the carbs are now free of cable. Repeat the procedure before putting carbs back on bike. Before you do any of this make sure you remember the distance - that relates to the slack in the cable - of the main thru' screw to the lock nuts, reset to that spacing or your throttle may feel strange and idle issues might occur. :razz:
 
#6 ·
I have a couple of hints here.

The first is a modification, so if you are dead set on keeping your bike factory you'll have to suffer.

What you do is disassemble the airbox and take the rearward part (with the air ducts) and carefully cut it in half down the middle. Use a hacksaw or a dremel tool.

Then, take some weather striping and make a gasket that fits down the outside of the airbox rear, covering up the slot that you made. This isn't rocket science here. When it's reassembled you can't even see it. Any old strip of rubber will do, and glue it to one half of the airbox back. (If you can find some "H" section rubber weather stripping this works great.)

Next, install your carburetors onto the head. I use a little petroleum jelly to make them slip on easier. This has never caused me any trouble.

Now fit the front half of the airbox only onto the carburetors. This makes it incredibly easy to join everything together and tighten up the clamps.

Finally, fit the air filter and each half of the rear part of the airbox to the front part. You'll need a very long screwdriver to reach a couple of the screws. Be careful not to over-tighten and break the airbox: it's fragile.

This has saved me endless headache for the last ten years, and hasn't effected the performance that I can tell.

As for the valve cover, use as little RTV as absolutely necessary. The factory manual basically says only put a drop on the outside corners of the cam plugs and no more. We've found this to be good advice.

I'm still mad at Triumph for putting the throttle cable in between the #1 and #2 carbs though! Stupid! Why not put it on the outside where you can get at it? It's not like it makes any difference! Oh, and the fuel lines. Don't get me started on the idiotic routing of the fuel lines.
 
#7 ·
Thanks, Trypcil.

Crash,
I think the preceding mechanic/owner tried your recommendation. His effort was did not have the attention to detail necessary for the fix. The airbox was missing the lower screws. When I disassembled the airbox, there were a number of the screws that had stripped out their housings. There was no seal over the crack on the outside of the airbox.

Thank God for this website. Triumph owners are so few and far between that the information exchange that takes place here wouldn't happen for most of us.
 
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