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T3 Sport / Touring Forum For the discerning Hinckley Sporting Enthusiasts. Open to all lovers of the original T3 Sport Models including the Trident, Sprint, Sprint Exec, Daytona, Trophy, and Speed Triple.

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Old 11-05-2012, 09:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Stripping Down My Super III

I am trying to get my Super III into nice little piles of parts before the snow comes so I can work on them over the winter. The problem of course is nothing wants to come apart.

The rear brake caliper came off easily enough, but the pins are rusted in, and the previous owner managed to change the required size of hex key needed to work them loose to something in a half size.

The airbox was pretty badly broken already, so getting it out was easy, although the filter has a rather impressive seed collection stuck in it. The carbs were not as easy, but they came evetually, unfortunately, rust had fused the throttle cable to it.

The Exhaust Header bolts were impossible to make out under the rust, but I managed to extract 5 of the 6 studs. The last one is going to be a problem since the nut is essentially round. I might drop the engine out first and get in on a bench before trying to get the last one.

The most perplexing problem though is the water pump. The bolts came out fine, and I can remove the cover, but that sucker won't come out. If anyone has any ideas on what I am missing please chime in. I have removed the two bolts that go to the case as well as the one for the cover. I have removed the front water line, and I have disconnected the rear water line frome the case. I have not removed the rear water line becase the screw for the clamp is in behind and I cant get to it without removing the sprocket cover.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Kevin
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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PB Blaster is your friend. (I've heard Kroil is actually better, from people I trust, but PB Blaster is what I usually have around, and it's better than Liquid Wrench.) Spray some on, let it soak for a day or two, repeat as necessary.

You'll want an EZ-out for that brake pad pin, though penetrating oil and a propane torch might loosen it enough to get it out with a pair of Vice Grips.

After penetrating oil, don't be afraid to go after that header stud bolt with a pair of Vice Grips as well.

Put a soft cloth over the water pump and whack it from the side with a rubber mallet. And by whack it from the side, I mean the side of the engine; hit it as if you were trying to pound it into the motor. A bit counter-intuitive, but that's a good way to free stuck covers and such.

Cheers,
-Kit
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks Kit.

I have tried the torch, but I don't have vice grips thin enough to get in there with the pads in. I have tried a screw extractor, but I cannot get it to bite into the metal. I suspect that the metal was tempered by an application of too much heat at one time. Not that I would ever apply too much heat.

I will give the PB Blaster a go since WD 40 just isnt cutting it. I prefer to just use the old Acetone and ATF conconction, but it also removes any paint in comes in contact with, so something gentler would be better in this application.

I will let you know how it goes this weekend.
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I make up Allen socket with a 3/8 or 1/2 inch drives. I use an old 6mm and grind to 5.1mm the fit is snug. Problem goes away. I got slightly bigger ones for pins that are FUBAR.
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