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T3 Sport / Touring Forum For the discerning Hinckley Sporting Enthusiasts. Open to all lovers of the original T3 Sport Models including the Trident, Sprint, Sprint Exec, Daytona, Trophy, and Speed Triple.

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Old 08-19-2012, 03:16 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Unhappy Clutch resevoir cover screws Help!

Friday as it was raining I cleaned/new fluid to my front brakes,great I thought another job out of the way.So I went to the garage and thought I'd change clutch fluid first screw out but tight the second just rounded off!
So my question is what do I do now?
Do I try and drill it out or am I best just leaving alone.The triumph will be sorn come 1st October.
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You can drill the head off it and this should allow you to remove the cover but still leave a stub for you to get purchase on with some mole grips...also the heat from the drilling may well help loosen it up..

Note to anyone else before you attempt to unscrew reservior screws choose the correct bit and give em a whack with an impact driver..the ones you hit with a hammer. These screws are made out of cheese and only give you one chance to get them out before mashing the head.

If worst case drain the clutch fluid unbolt the reservior and take to a shop..or buy another off ebay ;-)

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Old 08-19-2012, 05:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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+1 on all that Mark has suggested.
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:47 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Smile

Thanks, going to take other screw out and pick nearest size drill to get head of screw off as you say then use mole grips, if that fails there are some on eBay but for other models I'm just assuming the sprint/daytona 900 are the same?
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Old 08-19-2012, 09:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Yup any will do ;-)
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Old 08-19-2012, 02:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Mine were the same, I drilled the heads off fairly easily if you just follow Mots instruction. I replaced them with m4 { I Think} countersunk allen headed screws to avoid it happening again. My Fazer has the same problem but if you choose a phillips screwdriver with exactly the right tip and go steady they will crack open. Use a bit of copper grease on reassembly but dont let it get in the fluid.
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Old 08-19-2012, 02:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I restore motorcycles and have stripped many a master cyl bolt using an impact screw driver with the phillips head. I have had luck just taking my dremmel cutting disc and making one slot. From that I was able to get a better bite with the impact screw driver.
A touch of black paint and who will notice ?
--so update.
A couple days ago I used blaster on the little screws on the clutch and brake fluid containers. TUrned out only one would come out with the phillips impact screw driver. I did what I wrote, cut slots and used the flat screw driver bit. Now , I use the heavy duty drummel disks that are a hair wider and I have several bits. The right fit is critical.
The 3 stuck ones aroke lose 1st hit.
I cant seem to find where to add a photo I just took. So maybe will add when I remember how.
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Last edited by sdanville; 08-19-2012 at 06:01 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I know it's a bit late to suggest it now, but it's always worth taking a new, or near new, bike and removing every accessible bolt, that's mounted into alloy and replacing it with the stainless steel equivalent.

This is an inexpensive guarantee against all possible future problems like this one.
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Only if you apply copper grease to them...they will still corrode against the alloy other wise..antbolts that copper grease would not be a good idea you can use thread lock compound ;-)

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Old 08-19-2012, 03:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Not in the last 17 years they haven't....
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