HELP - Vibration

Hi Everyone,

I would appreciate any help you can provide on this.

My 95 Sprint has always had a little vibration - I installed heavy bar-ends to years ago to tone it down (and yes, it worked well). I had new tires installed a few miles ago - the bike currently has 10k on it.

Recently, I have notice more vibration in the grips, and am getting the "tingles" far too frequently. Engine is still strong and smooth, and no funny noises anywhere, just the vibration.

I am not a mechanical whiz, and will need to bring this to the local Triumph dealer to work on - but they are expensive, and I was hoping someone in this group could let me know what they think it is, and the remedy - any help would be greatly appreciated -

Thanks!

[idahotb]

Hey Dog-
What condition is the chain in, any real tight spots? I have been procrastinating about putting a new chain on my Sprint till the end of the season; and I have noticed that as it gets worse I am getting a lot more vibration. Seems to me like it adds a harmonic on top of the engine vibration. I had the chain and sprockets swapped out on my TBS this spring and it really seemed to make it run smoother too. 10,000 on the stock Regina chain is about when they start to go.
Just a thought.

Idaho


[ This message was edited by: idahotb on 2005-09-10 18:25 ]

[j98sprint]

That's the first thing I thought also; chain. New chain and sprockets (about $200 + labor @ T dealer) or a well maintained and properly adjusted chain will run smooth and quiet.

j98sprint

[Gromit3528]

Loose engine mounting bolts?

Regards

[andybike]

front wheel out of balance?

[Puffer]

Check the valve clearances. As mine tightened up on my Sprint, I noticed an increase in the "buzzies". Really noticed it at about 3,500 rpm, but seemed to smooth a bit as 4 grand approached. After setting to specs, my "smooth" engine returned. Now for the frustrating news.........the buzzies are back. As said in other posts, I'm going to replace my final drive chain. I'm on my second one and it already has over 15,000 miles on it. I do suspect it's the culprit. Won't find out until next season, though, as winter seems to be setting in up here. Boy our fall weather has been lousy! Rode in Virginia two weeks ago. Didn't want to return to New York! Oh well, 3 more years to go until retirement then New York & I WILL part ways!

[pendraig]

Also, when dealing with your drivechain, check the condition of the rubber slipper that the top run of the chain rides on as it passes over the pivot-axis of the swingarm. If it's worn through so that the chain is actually coming into contact with metal , it will set up a vibration (and start to saw its way through the swingarm).

[Lurch]

Synchronize the carbs also. If one of them gets "out", that can cause an unusually uneven power pulse. I have noticed an improvement in the smoothness after doing this.

Lurch

Thanks everyone -

I have stripped the plastic off and thoroughly checked all engine mounts, and put the bike into neutral for a brief period on the freeway to check if it is wheel or engine related (definately not the wheel balance). The chain (looks) fines as well. It is a few thousand miles until the 12,000 service where valves, etc. are supposed to be checked - maybe I will take it in a little sooner than that to see if anything was amise -

Thanks again for all your help - I will keep you posted!

Steve

Laughing Dog sounds like our bikes were made on the same day.

First noticed the vibration in the right hand mirror at about 5000 rpm. Over 30000 miles it sort of slowly got a little worse, no big deal but annoying.

Did all the engine mount and drive chain things but not a lot of joy.

Anyway I needed to change the cam chain which I had also thought might explain the right hand side bias.

But it turned out to be much simpler yup carb balance.

The right hand carb has never been easy to dial in, but a new little rubber o ring under the carb top made all the difference. It dials in like the other two, idles a tad better, is much smoother low down and lost more than half the vibes higher up.

The 6 x 4 viton seal was 10p.

The cost of labour over a couple of years???
But at least its now as pleasant as my pals 1991 Trophy

So I hate to suggest this, but off with the rack, plastics tank and all. Then look real carefully at the carb tops, rubbers, clips, vacuum pipes or anything that might leak air.

If your lucky it wont take quite so long