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T3 Sport / Touring Forum For the discerning Hinckley Sporting Enthusiasts. Open to all lovers of the original T3 Sport Models including the Trident, Sprint, Sprint Exec, Daytona, Trophy, and Speed Triple.

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Old 08-13-2005, 11:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Just changing my airfilter element 1994 Trophy900. I have got the airbox off after a struggle and skinning my knuckles, my how I laughed!
I had already purchased a new K&N element (TB-9091) some weeks ago. I went to fit it in and

a) its too small to locate properly on the lip around the airbox
b) There are only two holes in it for the clamping screws, the old one had four
c) These two holes are in the wrong place anyway!!

So whats the fix? I wanted to use the bike tomorrow and I really don't want to put it all back together until I can talk to someone at K&N

Before anyone asks, I am trying to fit it in the right way round. I have checked the part No on the K&N website and it is correct for my bike, in fact it is the same for virtually all T3's so some one must have encountered this before.

Regards

:???:
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Old 08-13-2005, 11:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Did you put the "D" ring spacer thing back in? Without that the element would seem too small. It's been a few years so I don't remember the exact conditions, but I do remember having to modify the perimeter rubber of the element with an x-acto knife so it would seat properly in the box.

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Old 08-13-2005, 01:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hi J98sprint

Thanks for your response. Buying a product as costly as this shouldn't require any modification, it should just drop straight in.
I have discovered faults on both sides. OK the filter isn't too small I had misunderstood the purpose of the lip around the edge of the filter element. When I dropped it into the front half of the housing it fitted OK apart from sitting high on the four plastic lugs on the D ring spacer thingy. I soon determined that if those lugs were removed the filter could sit flat against this and be trapped nicely between the two parts of the filter housing. Out came the hacksaw and a file and that was one problem less.
However, the lack of the four holes in the element I am still furious about, and there is no excuse for that. I actually managed to make four new holes in the rubber to allow the four Torx clamping screws to do their job. Its a botch and I am not happy about it, but I have made it work. Very disappointing in a product with such a good name (K&N).

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Old 08-13-2005, 02:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Very disappointing in a product with such a good name (K&N).
They probably figure anyone who is willing to go through that much trouble to remove an air filter will hardly notice if they have to customize the element a bit. :razz:
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Old 08-13-2005, 02:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Hi EZride

Yeah I guess that could be it and anyone who gets that far is gonna find a way round it, so they probably haven't had many complaints.......................YET!!!!!!!!

Regards
:-D
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Old 08-17-2005, 05:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
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i'm considering fitting a k&n filter,i got the torx bits but wondered how u take the airbox off?

looks like the answer is ''with great difficulty!!''
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Old 08-17-2005, 08:03 AM   #7 (permalink)
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There's an earlier thread about this, I think. You have to remove the carbs first. There was some talk of surgically altering the airbox so that it could be removed with the carbs still on the engine.
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Old 08-17-2005, 02:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hi Andybike

After a weekend of taking carbs on and off both my wifes ans a mates Trophy trying to cure a misfire he had I now have a bit of a knack. First thing is don't take any short cuts! there just isn't enough clearance t pratt about with.

1) The carbs do have to come off first!
2) Undo the clamps on the carb side of the engine to carb hoses. It leaves more room than bringing the hoses off with the carbs
3) Don't try and take the hoses out of the airbox before removing the carbs.
4) Remove the coils and lay them on the head. Its only six easy to reach screws and it doesn't half help.
5) The body work around the seat simply has to come off.
6) So do the resonater bottles bolted to the battery box
7) With all this off you can slide the airbox back about 1"just enough to get the carbs off the engine inlet hoses.
8)with the carbs free of the engine inlet hoses and the airbox there is just enough room to lift the carbs so that the engine side stubs go over the inlet hoses still attached to the engine.
9) At this point you can withdraw them from the left/port/nearside of the machine.
10) Now you can get at the airbox.

Enjoy :hammer:
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Old 08-18-2005, 08:35 AM   #9 (permalink)
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sod that for a game,i'll pop the trummy next door and let them do it!!!!
i'm getting my yoshi race system this weekend hopefully so that will free up the engine and make it lighter
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Old 08-19-2005, 02:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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have you needed to adjust the air/fuel mix at all?
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