igniter?

[stone man]

persistent problem. 98 sprint exec. problem started with engine shutting off while at idle. not all the time, intermittent. then had problems with bike dying while accelerating. always restarts immediately, even while rolling. will run with no problem for a time then die at a light. even stutters upon acceleration on the freeway, but only does it once or twice then is fine.

initial diagnosis was fuel. had rust in the tank. no idea how that happened. bought a kit and did the three step process to strip and coat the interior. also had the carbs rebuilt. some fine particles in there.

I spoke with a mechanic and he seems to think that it is an intermittent igniter problem. triumph doesn't make it anymore. any idea where to find a used one, or other suggestions.

thanks

[IrlMike]

I'd go over ignition related connections 1st, unplugging, plugging, cleaning, 'pinching up' wherever you can. Note that there's a sidestand inhibit line to the igniter too - must be grounded to run.

Coils, plugs, plug leads & igniter (crankshaft) pickup are all possible component failures too.

If you do need an igniter, Czech co. Ignitech sell a programmable unit, & adapter cable for T3 looms.

This thread describes my fitting of the unit:

http://www.triumphrat.net/hinckley-c...placement.html

[N5XL]

Lee,

The ignitor is the most expenisve, last alternative I would suspect.

Have a look at the alarm connector buried down deep in the bike. I believe there is a jumper there that has caused grief in the past...suspect #1. Cost free.

As Mike indicated, have a look at the sidestand switch and associated wiring. You can jumper it for testing purposes, just be careful and remember if its up or down. suspect 2. Cost free.

Your symptoms are not consistent with this one, but you've no doubt read the forum where the ignition sensor ( l call it a crank position sensor) often goes open circuit when hot so it could be suspect 3. Cost ~60 bux from the dealer.

Your symptoms are more consistent with a poor connection to a coil or the coil(s) going t*ts up. These become suspect with increasing age, so they are suspect 4-6. Replace with Nology coils, cost ~70 bux each.

Inspect the bladed connections at each coil for good, solid connection. Remove one wire at a time and look at the terminals you see on the coil. You want nice, shiny metal on the blades. Use a screwdriver or a razorblade to "shave" the terminals to make them nice and shiny. Once clean, lightly coat your fingertip with silicone grease and gently coat the blades on the coil. Take some pliers and gently squeeze the female connector to make them tighter. Suspect numbers 7-12. Cost free.

Remove one high tension wire at a time (the spark plug lead) from the coil and the spark plug. If you see any sign of green oxidation or white powdery junk on either end of the wire, then replace all three leads...suspect number 13-15. Cost ~120.00 from dealer.

Change the plugs while you're in there...run platinum NGK plugs DPR8EIX-9 (you'll need an 18mm thinwall socket attached to a 3" or 6" extension and attached to a universal swivel joint..all 3/8" works well.) Not really a suspect, but its time for a tuneup anyway. Cost ~6 bux each.

Make darn sure when you reinstall the spark plug wire on the spark plug that you adequately push down on the top of the boot and audibly hear two or three "clicks". If you don't hear or feel any clicks, then the spark plug boot isn't installed properly on the spark plug. It is possible to push the boot further up the spark plug wire (towards the coil) which will allow for a bit more reach down to the spark plug. High on the suspect list...I should make it suspect 1 and the coil connections suspect 2. Cost free.

There are numerous other electrical connectors that could oxidize over time and cause problems. Inspect each connection and look for signs of green or white oxidation. Cost free.

I'd be quite surprised to find out that you didn't fix the problem by doing one (or all) of the above, but if you do need the ignitor, Mike's your man for help.

Ride Safe

[stone man]

thanks for the replies.

I have never been good with electrics, but apparently I will now have to dig in step by step.

a few more symptoms.
while still in the first 10 minutes or so, the bike would turn on and off and one and off. it was like riding a bronco, it died and sprang forward. the tach went from where it was, maybe 5k, to 0 and then back up. didn't feel real safe.

but once the bike was warmed up there was only one problem, when I got off the freeway and stooped at a light it sometimes died. restarted right away.

anyway, now to try to look into it.

[trypcil]

Coils! Clean and refasten spade end connectors to coils, tighten battery terminals - ! If it persists consider coil replacement, if it then still persists replace crankshaft sender unit.....to check tip over valve, run with tank cap open see if issue persists.

Tach is routed thru' either 1 or 3 coil, clue - fluctuating tach. Typically the crank sender unit fails with heat, leaving you stranded til it cools - check gap. The tip over valve can restrict venting of the gas tank, fuel starvation - possible. Coil failure likely, though elimination of poor connection being the issue rather than simply accepting the catastrophic failure of said item. Clean and inspect the coils - you can put a meter to them; someone has the details, sorry I don't. Look for the obvious, if all seems well - clean the lt terminals, they are spade style connectors, make sure 'all' is well, clean - and fits firmly; crimp lightly the females to achieve this, if necessary - refit and start bike. Smile or move to next phase! You may have both a dodgey coil(S) and a wonkey crank shaft sender - that's my theory and I'm sticking to it!

[stone man]

I read about coil testing in another thread and went out and got a multimeter. took a reading for all three coils and the leads.
here is what I got. left side unit .5, wires 6.93. right side rear unit .3, wires 3.80. right side front unit .3, .4, .5, wires 4.02.

then I read these to a mechanic at so bay triumph (in lomita, ca, fairly local to me) and he said that I confirmed his thought that it is the igniter since that is where the coils get their juice and not enough juice is coming in.

now to go find a used one or that checz company. any leads appreciated. also any other diagnoses.

[IrlMike]

The resistance check on the coils is not definitive for the most common mode of failure. The secondary winding breaks down only under high voltage conditions. Way higher than a test meter applies for resistance measurement.

[stone man]

ok, so I will continue with all of the suggestions that you made earlier. one note of interest is that the sidestand switch has only worked for maybe a week after I had the starter replaced. wasn't working when I bought it.

so I'll trace that and see. thanks again.

Originally Posted by IrlMike

The resistance check on the coils is not definitive for the most common mode of failure. The secondary winding breaks down only under high voltage conditions. Way higher than a test meter applies for resistance measurement.

[stone man]

one more thing to note.

when I tested the coils I had the battery out of the bike. I don't think that that would give different readings, but does it?

and would that mean that without power the igniter couldn't be providing any juice so the readings for just about anything else would also be off.

(as I said, I'm not too good with electrics)

[IrlMike]

Originally Posted by stone man

one more thing to note.

when I tested the coils I had the battery out of the bike. I don't think that that would give different readings, but does it?

and would that mean that without power the igniter couldn't be providing any juice so the readings for just about anything else would also be off.

(as I said, I'm not too good with electrics)

You don't want power at all in the circuit when making 'resistance' (ohms or continuity) tests - could even blow the meter. Disconnecting one side of the battery (usually 'earth) is sufficient - can't make a 'circuit' with only one terminal connected. Your readings seemed ok, give or take a little lead or connector resistance. They were worth doing, just not definitive for a 'good part' conclusion.

Good on yer for giving it a go, only way to learn