Daytona 1200 / Trophy 1200 alternator

[daytonacharlie]

Need some help... I've added a lot of accessories to my '96 Daytona 1200. I'm sure it's more than the system was designed for. In an attempt to boost the charging system's output I've bought an alternator that came off an '01 Trophy. From all appearances the Trophy alternator will fit on the Daytona. All the bolt holes match up, the plug from the Daytona's wiring harness will plug right into the Trophy's socket. I've measured with a micrometer the mounting base's i.d. and o.d. and they're identical.

I am hoping to gain charging capacity (not sure of correct term here) from the Trophy's 40A alternator over the Daytona's 25A. I've asked here before if it fit and I'm reasonably sure it will fit into the same same space as the Daytona's. Here are my questions...
1. Could the additional 15Amps damage anything within my Daytona's electrical system?
2. What attaches to the bolt sticking out of the top front of the Trophy alternator?
3. Has anyone else ever done this before?

Daytona alternator on left, Trophy on right



thanks,
dc

[KitNYC]

I don't think you're going to hurt anything with that upgrade, but, assuming my understanding is correct*, you may find this thread helpful:

http://www.triumphrat.net/maintenanc...-solution.html

Also, hopefully DeCosse will chime in here.

Cheers,
-Kit

*A big assumption.

[daytonacharlie]

IrlMike,
Thanks for the information! I have a VOM and am familiar with vehicle electrics so the procedure you recommended is within my expertise.

KitNYC,
Thanks for the link, I'll be reading it thoroughly.

you guys rock!
dc

[N5XL]

DC,

Interesting idea. I'll be watching your progress on your upgrade idea. From what I see, the Trophy alternator looks to be internally regulated just like the original 25 amp alternator you have next to it. I believe the silver heat sink looking part on the Trophy alternator is actually the internal regulator, but I could be very wrong...guys help me out!!!

I also take away from IrlLMikes comments that it might not be necessary to hook anything up to the two blade terminals for proper alternator function??? The B+ is the main charge line exactly as Mike pointed out and should be a nice heavy gauge wire (8ga for example) directly to the battery or starter solenoid.

It would be great if you can take one more picture of both alternators side by side, showing the Triumph part numbers on both. Typing in the part numbers as part of the text portion of your post also helps when someone uses the search feature. If something ever happens to your image hosting service and the pictures get lost, the integrity of the important information in the post is kept.

I believe my alternator might be the same alternator you have (hence why I'm interested in this thread), but my parts fiche shows two alternators available for the Trophy. T1300350 is for the 4 cylinder bike starting at engine 55346 and up, and T1300014 for the 3 cylinder bikes starting at engine 15523 and up. Any Trophy variant before these numbers uses the same alternator I have on my Sprint, 1300000-T0301





Carry on Sir!!!

[daytonacharlie]

N5XL,
Here they are...

Daytona part # 1300000, 100211-4950, 12V
same as yours





Trophy part # 1300350, 101211-1611, 12V



I'll keep you posted on my progress...

[daytonacharlie]

Originally Posted by IrlMike

No! Not correct at all, apologies if I've not been too clear.

For accurate regulation of battery voltage, which I would strongly advise, the 'sensing' (blade) connection should be ideally taken direct to the battery terminal itself, but the solenoid terminal described would be acceptably near imo. No fuse in this small gauge line either - be very careful with it's routing, keep it well away from any earthed parts it might chafe against.

The charge warning light circuit is also required as I believe this alternator will be a 'self-excited' type (near universal in cars which use this type of field regulated design) & requires the small current passing thru' the warning light bulb (or substituted - or paralleled - resistor) to initially magnetise the rotor. Once it starts to generate, the internal self-excitation takes over (& hence the warning light goes out). The rotor can have some 'residual' magnetism remain when the engine is stopped, sufficient to restart self-excitation, but it's not guaranteed. This is the situation if the warning light fails, you may or may not have alternator output.

Hope that's a bit clearer

Thanks mate, I'm taking this all down. Hope to get started this weekend...

[IrlMike]

Hold on a sec DC, I've just been looking online to see if a Trophy (late model) or t595 had a charge warning light or if I can find a wiring diagram.

Can't find any reference to a charge warning light - wondering if I'm wrong here....sorry. Check & see what resistance to ground you get on the blade terminals & let me know.

[daytonacharlie]

Originally Posted by IrlMike

Hold on a sec DC, I've just been looking online to see if a Trophy (late model) or t595 had a charge warning light or if I can find a wiring diagram.

Can't find any reference to a charge warning light - wondering if I'm wrong here....sorry. Check & see what resistance to ground you get on the blade terminals & let me know.

will do...

[N5XL]

Originally Posted by IrlMike

No! Not correct at all, apologies if I've not been too clear. [snip] ..Hope that's a bit clearer

Exactly why I put question marks behind my statement. Got it now Mike and thanks for the clarification.

Good stuff going on here, and thats why this is the best place for all things Triumph.

[IrlMike]

Ok, I have some good info for you.

The stud terminal is actually an earth terminal - it's not clear whether it's a main output earth or just for the lower power field/regulator section. I suspect the latter, but play safe & loop it to the mounting bolt ground with heavy gauge (40A) wire. (See the rather poor pics in the att manual page.)

This means that the two blade connectors are performing the same function as they do on the stock 25A alternator.

Shouldn't be too hard to figure out which is which. The main output has a bridge rectifier behind it, so on a diode (or resistance) check will show forward bias (low resistance) with meter leads one way round (wrt earth/chassis) and blocking (very high resistance) with leads the other way round.

On your connector one wire should be brown & the other white, white is for the main output connection on the alternator.

The main output connects to the battery via the 'main' 30Amp fuse, but also feeds straight to the ignition switch. The main fuse is probably ok as not all alternator output goes via it. It might be worth upgrading the size of the white wire to where it joins the main fuse or connects to the line from this fuse to the ignition switch.