98 sprint exec. carb rebuild..tricks...hints..tips?

[keystiger]

Well got her to spark (98 Sprint Basket Case rebuild) but now....carbs time.

Lookin for tips tricks hints....also, where to find and what size suggest for bigger jets? Maybe open her up a little while I'm in there?

ANyone done this mod?

Any insight or a photo tutorial would be WONDERFUL.

OR should I just bight the bullet and take it to a pro.?

[MotT3]

Not complete...but there are a few pics that may be of help..that is I take it you have Keihins being a '98 an'll..?

http://mottleybiker.com/page32.htm

As you can see the isn't a maintenance thing just where I've changed to pods ;-)

I used http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/keihinjets.html for jets but you may have some one more local your side of the pond ?

Cheers
Mot

[keystiger]

Wow thanks Mot that helps a ton.
Yes Keihns, love those K&N filters you got. The one I have is "IN" the airbox, but yours look way more "trick" might look for those instead.....

[KitNYC]

Keystiger, I would really argue against the K&Ns in your environment. That fine Gulf sand will go right through that cotton and into your motor. Go for the Uni pods; they're foam, and will do a much better job of keeping the grit out.

Cheers,
-Kit

[keystiger]

Good Call Kit.......but Mots look sooooo cool

Thanks hope all is well with you.

[KitNYC]

They do look good, but the Uni pods with the chrome ends ain't half bad either.

Cheers,
-Kit

[sailfish]

Your original main jets should be 120-115-120. Try 125-120-125. If I didn't source mine at a local bike shop I would have ordered them from Sudco.com. Some guys mess around with the pilot jets, search the forum for sizes. Turn the fuel screw out to about 1 1/2 turns (I think?, someone correct me please.) Check the throttle cable for frayed strands. Sync the carbs.

These carbs are super reliable and pretty simple. I need to take mine apart for their second cleaning at 57k, I picked up a miss in Canada, that acts like a clogged pilot jet, other than that, zero problems.

[djw]

I split the back half of the stock airbox on my T3s to make carb installation and extraction relatively simple. You read post after post of guys struggling to get the rack in and out - this problem just goes away. Make it seal well at the split if you decide to do that.

I'd suggest putting it back together stock, including all the airbox/intake tubing to make sure it runs perfectly before you start fiddling with jets, filters, etc. This should cost nothing. Sailfish's set-up is close enough to stock to run perfectly as the standard with stock pilots (read it twice, sync the carbs). Otherwise you have no starting place where you know it works perfectly and will be chasing fueling "issues". If you can't get it to run right stock, stop and work on it until it is. I've been happiest with a stock jets and 1 1/2 turns out on the idle mix screw. They are pretty simple carbs, just take it easy and don't force anything (i.e. don't twist off a pilot jet that's stuck), make sure the screwdriver fits the slot, and everything fits together right, no leaks, etc.

It might be worth checking to insure that someone hasn't fiddled the set-up already with non-stock (dynojet or factory pro parts) just to understand where you are starting from. Probably worth it to buy new stock pilot/float needles, there are cheap sources for these at low hassle.

And fwiw if you are "testing", your T3 will probably run like garbage (at least mine feel like running on 2) with standard carb set-up and the full airbox not attached. Runs great with all the intake on. More than one forum member has reported this observation.