Triumphrat

roadweazel · 11-01-2009, 07:13 PM

My nephew misplaced my manual...
Could someone please tell me the correct torque spec for the intake cam caps on my '98 Sprint Exec?
I have a special tool for valve adjusting that is a bar that bolts to the valve cover bolt holes but it's not working. It doesn't contact the bucket as it seems like it should. Is there a trick to this little gizmo?
Thanx.
Weazel

MotT3 · 11-02-2009, 02:13 AM

10Nm.....I gave up with the tool & took the cams out ;-)

roadweazel · 11-02-2009, 07:25 AM

That's .15-.25mm on the intake and .20-.30mm for the exhaust, correct?
Thanx Mot!

sailfish · 11-02-2009, 07:45 AM

The tool works ok unless it's bent. You have to fiddle with it, it won't just bolt up and automatically be in the exact, correct position. It will bend if a cam lobe bumps it, if that happens put the leg in a vise and tap it back into position. Before you depress the valve with the cam lobe, be sure to rotate the bucket slot to a position to easily pick out the shim once the valve it's depressed.

I like the tool, it's a real time saver, but many here on the forum prefer to remove the cams.

roadweazel · 11-02-2009, 08:58 AM

Thanx for the tips. I'll find a flat surface and check the legs for any bending. It's really not even close, and I have been fiddling with it.
I formerly worked on motorcycles for a living, and currently teach MC repair. Not that I know much of anything, but this isn't my first attempt at doing valves. I even managed to get the little 'Universal Bat-Wing' tool on one of the buckets but still couldn't get the shim out due to the fact that the shims are partially behind the stinking cam support journal...
I just pulled the intake cam. With any luck I can keep the chain on the crank sprocket so I don't have to re-time it.
Thanx.
Weazel

wiayeman · 11-02-2009, 09:03 AM

MoT has a fantastic web page with step by step instructions. You cannot go wrong if you follow the steps. Mottleybiker.com

screene · 11-02-2009, 03:49 PM

I had exactly the same problem with the special tool this time last year - see my thread here for details and pics.

wiayeman · 11-05-2009, 08:40 AM

Even if you are able to get the tool to work, the shim is still difficult to get out due to the oil. Once the bucket is completely out, you still need a pick to free it.

I have heard the occasional story of the tool working, but more tales of despair.

Good Luck. I hope your story has a happy ending. (not that kind)

Flying Custard · 11-05-2009, 04:44 PM

You can wire or cable tie the chain to a sprocket to stop it jumping, if that might help. I did mine that on mine, was a big help on getting the cams back and tensioner in etc.

Thought about making a tool but tbh its easy enough to pull the cams, plus you get to see the bearing surfaces that way. Then the shims are very easily pulled with a magnet.

Get some cam lube for re-assembly, bit better than oil for the initial starting up. Very sticky glop. Presumably essence of boiled cow or something.

roadweazel · 11-06-2009, 07:34 AM

Thanx for all of the input. I ended up using zip-ties on the cam sprockets and chain to hold them together, and then a bungie cord to pull the cam and keep the chain tight. I've tried the zip-tie on the cam and chain before but it came off the crank sprocket and I had to re-time anyway.
This time went very smooth.
Thanx again.
Weazel