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| T3 Sport / Touring Forum For the discerning Hinckley Sporting Enthusiasts. Open to all lovers of the original T3 Sport Models including the Trident, Sprint, Sprint Exec, Daytona, Trophy, and Speed Triple. |
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10-07-2009, 05:45 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
250 Grand Prix Favourite Bike: '92 Trident 750
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 145 Extra Motorcycle: I wish
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New member + Trident questions :)
Hi everyone, new to the site, great stuff!
Ive recently bought a 1992 Triumph Trident 750.
It has a leaking water pump but i have a replacement. Can anyone give a quick guide on how to do this, i have a general idea but would appreciate the knowledge of experience.
It also 'pops' quite alot, as can be seen in the vid below. I have only had the bike 1 day and i havent been out on it yet but as far as i can tell from the 10 minutes ive run it, the popping seems to slow down when warm. Anyone experience this or have any ideas?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDUBPl5ZLDw
One last thing,
When i ran it (10 mins or so - take ages to warm up dont they?  ) it stuttered at first but gradually got better until it was more-or-less fine. But when i turned the engine off the coolant(?)(in the pic below) leaked out of the bottom of the bike, for about 10/20 seconds until it stopped.
Any help much appreciated,
Ant
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10-08-2009, 04:17 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperSport Favourite Bike: Daybird
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,004 Other Motorcycle: StreetTracker project
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Replacing waterpump is easy; drain fluid then remove three bolts and two hose clamps to remove, the refit. All easily reached. Just make sure the "claws" on the new pump is aligned correctly to match the receiver inside the engine. Make sure the seal on the new pump is good where it goes through the engine cases.
That the water is leaking out suggests either too much fluid in the system or too much pressure. If pressure is too high, the most likely culprit is a leaky head gasket. Another cause is overheating. But I wouldn't do anything until you've replaced the pump.
The popping can came from a lean condition (not unusual for carbs to partially clog up over time, especially after long storage) or a leaky head gasket or leaks in the exhaust system.
BTW - buy a Haynes manual for it
__________________
If it ain't broken, rip it apart and find out why!
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10-08-2009, 05:45 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Immoderate Moderator
Site Supporter SOTP Vintage Series Favourite Bike: '04 Sprint RS
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 7,939 Other Motorcycle: Dead '96 Trident in NYC Extra Motorcycle: '77/'82 Suzuki GS550/650
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Welcome, Ant.
Good advice from Faffi; I'll just add that they often seem to dump any coolant above the "Min" fill line once they warm up. If it stays at "Min" or above, I wouldn't worry about the coolant. If it drops below that, it's probably a lot of work...
Cheers,
-Kit
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10-08-2009, 07:32 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
250 Grand Prix Favourite Bike: '92 Trident 750
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 145 Extra Motorcycle: I wish
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Thanks guys. Now you mention that i did top the water up before starting, being over cautious of the water pump leak i suppose. wont worry about it for now.
So im currently in the middle of trying to get this water pump off but having great difficulty.
I took the tubes off to drain it but only 'so' much is coming out, not all of it. Its just sitting at the 'min' mark.
The water pump itself wont come out despite the 3 retaining bolts removed. The metal pipe that is attached to the lower of the pump is my problem i feel.
There is a bolt holding it onto the frame which bolt the 'torq' head and the nut underneath are rounded well off. I think someone has attempted it before. The metal pipe wwont budge at all, although i have managed to move it a small amount but this has just moved the water pump sideways a little.
Is there a specific way to drain all the fluid?
Heres what i mean...
Pump
Metal Pipe
Bolt
Thanks, Ant
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10-08-2009, 07:38 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperSport Favourite Bike: Daybird
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,004 Other Motorcycle: StreetTracker project
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Sorry, my bad - forgot all about the pipe  It must be unbolted from the front of the engine. If you cannot get any tools to grip the nut and bolt, you will need to drill it out. Not the simplest of tasks. I'd rather invest in a torx set and a tool that grips rounded off nuts well. You should be able to force the next size torx into the bolt head if the correct size doesn't fit.
To drain all the fluid, you also need to slacken the drain bolt on the rear bottom of the left hand cylinder. However, do not worry about the fluid left in the container under the seat; it will not drain by itself. If you want to drain that too, you must remove it and turn it upside down or use a suction pump and suck it out.
__________________
If it ain't broken, rip it apart and find out why!
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10-08-2009, 07:43 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Senior Member
250 Grand Prix Favourite Bike: '92 Trident 750
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 145 Extra Motorcycle: I wish
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Thanks mate. Im going to go back now and have another go,
I was also worried about damaging the mating surface(?) of the pump by trying to force the pipe off at the pump end, so i wont do that anymore
Should be ok once that pipe comes off then. I take it it's normal for the pump to be well stuck on then.
Ant
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10-08-2009, 07:56 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
250 Grand Prix Favourite Bike: T595
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cambridge, UK
Posts: 111 Other Motorcycle: Sprint 900 Extra Motorcycle: XTZ660, BMW1100GS
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If you can`t get the bolt off that holds the pipe on I should do the following, assuming that access with an impact screwdriver is possible;-
Apply releasing fluid once or twice and leave overnight.
Use an impact screwdriver with a bit that is one size bigger. You can usually concoct an extension piece for the bit using socket set pieces. Make sure the wrench is set up to undo!!
I find that the simultaneous impact/twisting works far better than just hammering an oversized bit into place and then trying to turn it as it will always tend to pop out.
Don`t go too hard with the hitting though as the casings are cast ally remember!
Last edited by MarkShelley; 10-08-2009 at 07:59 AM.
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10-08-2009, 09:23 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Senior Member
250 Grand Prix Favourite Bike: '92 Trident 750
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 145 Extra Motorcycle: I wish
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Thanks guys, I managed to get the water pump cover off, so i might not necessarily end up having to remove the metal pipe.
However, now that the cover is off. The pump is still stuck hard to the engine. Is this normal, does it just need a good pull and a bit of persuasion or am i missing something.
What does the inside of the water pump look like to you guys?
Thanks, Ant
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10-08-2009, 09:45 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme Favourite Bike: 94 TroTona 900
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: West 'Is that the Sun? - er,no' Wales
Posts: 460
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Looks like it hasn't seen antifreeze for some time. It should just pull off -maybe some light tapping with a rubber mallet whilst pulling will get it moving
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10-08-2009, 10:04 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Senior Member
250 Grand Prix Favourite Bike: T595
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cambridge, UK
Posts: 111 Other Motorcycle: Sprint 900 Extra Motorcycle: XTZ660, BMW1100GS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nobeard
Looks like it hasn't seen antifreeze for some time. It should just pull off -maybe some light tapping with a rubber mallet whilst pulling will get it moving
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Surely the pump impeller blade must be removed first? Isn`t it on the end of a shaft which goes into the crankcase? I could be wrong, but I wouldn`t start clouting it until I knew for sure. I would wait until someone with a manual replies.
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