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T3 Sport / Touring Forum For the discerning Hinckley Sporting Enthusiasts. Open to all lovers of the original T3 Sport Models including the Trident, Sprint, Sprint Exec, Daytona, Trophy, and Speed Triple.

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Old 04-07-2009, 03:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Timing mark worry

I've just checked valves on my speed3 and changed the shims accordingly (first time I've done this). It's all fine until I do up the camshaft caps.

Both arrows point towards each other on the shafts and the T1 mark lines up with the pickup. When I do up the caps gradually the shafts rotate and knock the marks out slightly. It doesn't seem to jump a tooth or anything but it does concern me a little.

Is this movement in the marks ok?

Any advice appreciated.

Gav
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Old 04-07-2009, 03:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Gav...maybe leave the bike in gear whilst doing the cam cam caps...Only a guess but it might help.

Also has the motor been turned over whilst the cams were out...? if so it is possible that the engine could still be out of time even though the marks line up...it would need another rotation to get back into sync..

And finally have you deffo got the cams the right way with IN at the back & EX at the front ??
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Old 04-07-2009, 03:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks Mot. I'll try leaving it in gear.

I'm pretty sure the shafts are right as I checked them a few times to make sure.

Yeah, I have turned the engine but made sure it was 2 full rotations to bring it back round. I'll check it though.

Should the shafts lie completely flat in their journals as mine are higher on the left hand side of the bike? (hence the rotation when they finally seat properly).
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Old 04-07-2009, 07:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Gav this is a link to when I have done mine and as you can see they line up ok...

http://www.mottleybiker.com/page15.htm

If they only dip a tiny amount just tweak the engine (spanner at the timing nut is best) until you are SURE that it all lines up..if all present and correct then lovely ;-) if not recheck what you have been doing.
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Very timely advice. I should be getting my valve shims tomorrow/thursday and I'll have to put my cams/cam caps back in too. Thanks!

Dean
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Old 04-08-2009, 06:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It looks like we are all fiddling at the same time. I took mine to bits today, going for the new shims tomorrow. My concern is: whats to stop the chain moving on the crankshaft end? I will let you know how I get on on Thursday night. I will definitely need some positive reinforcement before I try to start it...................
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Old 04-08-2009, 07:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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it doesnt matter if the chain moves, so long as all the timing marks remain aligned
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Old 04-08-2009, 07:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Makes sense. I suppose I have to be really careful to keep the chain tight between the crank and the inlet cam before looping it over the exhaust cam????
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Hi,

I think that it's the other way around.

As long as the chain is nice and tight between the crankshaft sprocket and the exhaust cam you should be OK.

The cam chain adjuster applies pressure to the section of the chain as it runs up from the crank sprocket to the inlet cam. So this side of the chain (i.e. towards the rear of the bike as you look at it) should have the 'slack' as this is where the chain adjuster takes up the slack as the chain wears over time.

Hope this makes sense.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 04-09-2009, 05:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Ok. Something tells me it shouldn't be this tricky.

I cannot however hard I try get the timing arrows level with the cylinder head. I must have had the camshafts in and out 50 times trying to do this.

Is it possible that the cam chain has stretched just the right amount to make this difficult for me?

How much would a camchain set me back and is it the whole lot (i.e sprockets and tensioner)?
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