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Cyclops LED headlight bulbs. 7000 lumens!

32K views 51 replies 27 participants last post by  sprint pete 
#1 ·
Hey everyone!

Just picked these up. Was originally going to just get the 3800 lumen but they were out at the time I ordered.

First off, cyclops is a great company to work with. Had some shipping problems that were entirely my fault and they fixed them immediately and had the bulbs out to me in less than a week.

To start, yes I paid $150 for headlight bulbs. Yes you do need two if you want to update both your headlights.





The ballast and extra parts were a bit bigger than I had originally imagined and seen in photos. When I started to install, I wasn't sure all that stuff would fit in the bucket. With the right squirming around of everything, they do go together. I did have to cut a bit of the rubber boot to make it wider to fit the bulbs fan but aside from that, no modification required. Plug and play.

Old low beam halogen.


Side by side color comparison


Look of the lights head on


And beam of new LED


With comparison shot of both together


As you guys can see, a much brighter, whiter, and more beam in the same type of pattern from the reflectors. Haven't had a chance to ride in the dark yet as it's not dark where I am and probably won't for a while as I'm in Minnesota and our spring is now some areas entire winter.

Just thought I'd share and say that for the moment, I'm extremely impressed with the company and the product.
 
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#8 ·
Crap. Knew I should've. It was simply the small seal part of the inside hole. Wasn't much. If you got the headlights and saw the boot, you'd figure it out. I just cut a bit and stretched it over the fan portion. Just make sure when you do that, that nothing is still covering part of the fan.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 
#17 · (Edited)
If you still want LED bulbs, check out the Philips ones. They actually replicate the standard halogen bulb beam pattern. Cyclops do not.

No amount of marketing hype, or reviews from people who don't really know what they're talking about will change the science behind it: the beam pattern of a headlight that uses a reflector housing, is dependent on only the shape, size, and especially location, of the LED emitting surface.

Take a look at the attached picture. It compares the filament location, shape, and size of a halogen H4 bulb (left) with a Philips 12953BWX2 LED H4 replacement bulb (middle) and basically all other LED bulb manufacturers, including Cyclops (left).
Notice how the philips bulb uses 3 smaller LEDs in a line to replicate the shape and size of a tungsten filament. Notice how they are long and thin, instead of just squares. Notice how there are light-redirecting shields on the low-beam emitters, just like they are on the incandescent bulb.

You really do get what you pay for. Philips bulbs are expensive and harder to find, but they actually do work correctly. Not to mention Cyclops lies about the Lumens output on their bulbs, anyway. Unfortunately, there aren't may ways to accurately test Lumens output outside of a lab, and most companies don't want to invest in that. So they "calculate" their lumens output based off current input to the emitter, choose the highest number allowed by the built-in margin or error, and then conveniently 'forget' to account for heat loss at higher current levels as the emitter becomes less efficient at higher outputs. Then they add both lights together in their kit, meaning a "7,000 lumen" kit actually has (two) 3,500 lumen bulbs in it. Technically true, but misleading. And if only the 3,500 lumens per bulb were accurate to begin with....


Short story, again, you get what you pay for. Want good bulbs? Buy good bulbs. Pay the price. I did, and every time I read something like this it makes me happy I did it the right way, the first time.

 
#18 ·
When I had my FZ-07, you had people on the forums buying the Cyclops and commenting that the Low beam / High beam didn't work well. The light distribution was also not great, but that could be mitigated by having a spacer ring or something that would then allow the light to reflect properly out of the headlamp.

You would think that using aftermarket LED bulbs in an enclosure that was not designed for LED could be problematic in terms of the heat the LED generates...those bulbs have a tiny little heatsink which probably means the LEDs are on the edge of their temperature limit as the entire enclosure heats up. When you look at good aftermarket LED assemblies, you'll find that the entire back of the light assembly is either metal or some sort of thermally conductive plastic. But hey, maybe LED efficiency is a lot better than a few years back, and you don't need a big heat sink anymore....
 
#19 ·
Such a buzzkill! Lol... I just heard about Cyclops today, and was getting excited after reading about them, and quite a few positive reviews too. But, like everything with the whole LED debate, I don't know what to trust. There are a lot of people saying good things about inexpensive products (mostly cruiser guys with $50 LED headlights off Amazon), and a lot of people that insist that you're not going to get a good LED headlight for under $200. I don't consider a $75 bulb inexpensive.

I NEED TO KNOW WHAT'S REAL, DAMN IT!!!!!!
 
#22 · (Edited)
I have the Cyclops LEDs on both of my Triumph bikes (Tiger 800 and Street Triple RS). The lights work great. They also do have low-beam emitter redirecting shields contrary to the earlier post above.

On the Street Triple RS, it's a tight fit getting all the Cyclops hardware in the housing, but it all fits nonetheless. On the Tiger 800, the install is very easy with room to spare.
 
#23 ·
I have the Cyclops LEDs on both of my Triumph bikes (Tiger 800 and Street Triple RS). The lights work great. They also do have low-beam emitter redirecting shields contrary to the earlier post above.

On the Street Triple RS, it's a tight fit getting all the Cyclops hardware in the housing, but it all fits nonetheless. On the Tiger 800, the install is very easy with room to spare.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Did you get the 3800 kit or the 7000?
 
#27 ·
When I installed my first set, I compared the beam patterns between stock bulbs and the Cyclops LEDs. They match well enough. The LEDs have a slight leakage of light but it’s dim, high, and outward. On the first set, I did install the spacer to move the LEDs inward. I haven’t done this with the latest set, frankly because they are slightly different than the first set I received. It seems like Cyclops improved the quality a bit since my last purchase. The latest set had LED elements essentially perfectly lined up with my stock filaments, so I didn’t think the spacer was needed.

The bulbs are super bright. I’ve been on backcountry discovery routes with buddies on Tiger 800’s running stock bulbs and my LEDs drowned out their yellow glows almost completely. Those friends are considering upgrading to the Cyclops LEDs.

I can’t speak for fitment on your bike, but if you post a few pictures of the headlight housing (with the rear cap off) I can try to compare to my bikes.
 
#33 ·
Here are pics from my right-side headlight.

Follow the rainbow to see how I routed mine. Red starts at the LED fan and leads to the power box. The power box is outlined in orange on the right side of the housing. The input power to the box is outlined green and the H4 connection is in blue.

The only tight fit is the H4 connection. The combination of the stock connector and the LED H4 connector makes for a bulky addition inside the headlight housing. It even slightly pushes on the fan wiring in my setup, but does not cause the bulb to tilt. I try my best to maintain stock wiring whenever possible rather than splice wires.

Lastly, I did not need to modify the rubber seal or cap to install these. All wiring is inverted on the left hand side.





 
#34 ·
Here are pics from my right-side headlight.

Follow the rainbow to see how I routed mine. Red starts at the LED fan and leads to the power box. The power box is outlined in orange on the right side of the housing. The input power to the box is outlined green and the H4 connection is in blue.

The only tight fit is the H4 connection. The combination of the stock connector and the LED H4 connector makes for a bulky addition inside the headlight housing. It even slightly pushes on the fan wiring in my setup, but does not cause the bulb to tilt. I try my best to maintain stock wiring whenever possible rather than splice wires.

Lastly, I did not need to modify the rubber seal or cap to install these. All wiring is inverted on the left hand side.
^Thanks man you confirmed my suspicions, although different type of bike. Very large unit that I have to think how to stuff in a Thruxton 900 headlamp. And the thing has a a Pulse Width Modulator (PWM) attached to cable to prevent flicker? - the box some have incorrectly refer to as a ballast in this thread.
 
#38 ·
I'm planning to get these this spring. I put LEDs in my '17 Chevy Colorado and really like them. Does anyone know what LED bulb can replace the halogen running lights? The running lights are only on when you have the key in the on position but the bike is not running (in the US anyway).
 
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