Getting myself ready for the camshaft swap, which will require resetting timing as I will use aftermarket slotted cam sprockets.
I want to do it by the book, using the triumph tool that acts as a temporary manual chain tensioner. The only departure from the book sequence is that I won't pay the ridiculous $205 for the dedicated triumph 0,6 Nm torque limiter, bought a similar tool off ebay for a fraction of the price,
Anyways all this makes me think about the chain tensioner itself, at the time of everything going back together, a proper chain tensioner will have to be put back in place- either the original hydraulic one, or- and that;s my question- a "better" one?
So, to rephrase
- did any of you so far swap the camshaft chain tensioner before it failing, solely on grounds of performance? If yes, would you mind elaborating on your reasoning in a few lines?
-anybody knows what the advantages/disadvantages scorecard is for hydraulic vs manual? I know some people change to manual, but I am thinking, maybe manufacturers opt for a hydraulic for a reason (other than saving cost)?
If your bike is equipped with the hydraulic CCT then it should work fine, but using a manual CCT may involve problems with the oil passage. Most of the CCT failures were the earlier spring-loaded ratchet plunger type which could stick if you like the high revs often, then Triumph switched to hydraulic in 2011 I believe. After setting the cam chain timing marks I simply wedge a suitably sized socket between the engine case and cam chain guide to keep the cam chain tight until the CCT is re-installed, then rotate the engine a couple of times and re-check the timing marks.
I'll bump this thread up as oppose to create a new one. I've also posted this info on another forum.
So I attempted to replace the hydraulic cam tensioner (OEM) with the APE manual tensioner this morning. Here is what I did (I have a 2012 Street Triple for reference):
Bought this
Recover the cover and adjusted to TDC. A couple of things I noticed
1. There is a little damage from the chain rubbing against the bike.
2. As I was going to wedge a socket so that I can hold tension for the cam chain, I noticed a metal brace. I have never seen this in the past write ups or tutorials. Anyone else have this?
Then I removed the OEM Cam tensioner and compared it to the APE. The adjustment length are very different. The OEM one is a bit longer even when pushed all the way in. Here is a comparison.
I was concern about this so rather than using the APE manual tensioner, I've put the OEM back in. As I put the OEM back in, I noticed that it was a bit stiffer but I assume it's auto adjusting.
So questions:
1. Should I keep with the OEM cam tensioner? Or should I use the APE? If it's the latter, should I be concern about the adjustment length being shorter?
The "metal brace" is the tensioner blade that pushes against the chain keeping it tight, and the CCT pushes against the blade.
Did you reset the auto tensioner? It's spring loaded with a non return ratchet. If you put it back as is then it's fully extended and your cam chain is going to be stretched to buggery.
I attempted to reset the auto tensioner by pushing it back the plunger and using the clips. Unfortunately, the retainer clips are worn out.. or have been worn out causing the tensioner to fully extend, as a result over stretching the cam chain.
Folks: Replace that POS auto tensioner with a manual one.
To reset the OEM hydraulic tensioner, you must push the plunger back down and line it up with the groove for the snap ring (See picture below #16).
The spring on my tensioner will not stay lined up. The snap ring that lines up with the top of the plunger will not hold on to the grove. It actually will not hold on to any of the grooves, therefore causing the the tensioner to be fully engaged... which stretched out my cam chain.
Another reason I suspect my chain is over stretched is when the APE manual tension was put in there was no resistance. Even when adding the max tension (screwing it all the way in), I was not able to feel it hitting the cam chain. I even rechecked if I ordered the correct APE tensioner... which I did.
Dont see the pic
. Wish I had a hydraulic one to play with. If the rings did grip and hold the plunger, what makes it ever able to move out and take up the slack in the chain? Just curious because I admit I dont know the mechanics of this tensioner. Seems like travel would stop where the chain is, and not have enough force to damage the chain. And then extend little by little as the chain gradually wore or "stretched".
So the image with the arrow on it is the tensioner in reset mode. Within the same picture, the area where #2 is where the retainer ring holds the groove. Once it's reset, there will be oil in the tensioner allowing it to extend. When there is resistance, the plunger stops extending allowing for the correct pressure on the cam chain. (here is a video).
My does not function properly. My retainer clip does not hold onto ANY grooves. In fact it over extend pass all the grooves to it's base putting a lot of pressure on the cam chain and prematurely stretches it out.
If true then that would settle the issue pretty much forever for me- I'd never change the hydraulic for a manual. Now I have to do some digging to see that back on white somewhere official.
Yup. It's settled for me then- never manual. I really appreciate you looking up the info.
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