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Street Triple Forum Owners and Enthusiasts of the new Triumph 675 Street Triple.

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Old 06-12-2012, 12:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Blipping the throttle on downshifts will help dramatically. Make it a habit and soon you won't even notice you are doing it.
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:47 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I guess I just hadn't noticed the down-shifting thing because I normally engine brake. Almost never shift straight from 3rd to 1st.

A big "phew" on the charging front. It’s been fine since I took the battery out to recharge it. Must have been corroded contacts.

Thanks, all for the notes on the down-shifting thing.
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:03 AM   #13 (permalink)
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...and 5 months later, it happens again. (Battery issue, that is.)

Any suggestions before I take it in? One thought is to stick an amp meter in the circuit when the bike is off to see if there's any drain. I guess measuring the resistance might work too.
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:19 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Figures - found this newer thread with good info just after posting.

http://www.triumphrat.net/street-tri...r-problem.html
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:24 AM   #15 (permalink)
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It took a while but I eventually sorted out the original problem I posted (it's taken even longer to remember to post up the answer ).

When this all started I'd done all the usual checks including stator output and circuit to ground without finding an issue. Two other techs had also checked the stator. After a lot of head scratching and swapping of parts (reg/rec, battery, loom) I went back to the beginning and started over. This time the stator had a circuit to ground It turns out the owner had replaced the stator but had damaged the insulation on the leads inside the cover and not taped it up. The wire was close enough to the cover to short out when there was load on it but not when it was tested unplugged. It was just luck that the wire had eventually moved enough to short to ground enough for the multimeter to pick it up. A small piece of insulation tape and the problem is solved (at last).
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:36 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Nine times out of ten when I have seen a problem with a pre-owned motorcycle it is because the previous owner/incompetent mechanic screwed something up, it is rarely a defect in the bike itself. The most frustrating part is trying to diagnose the problem. A carelessly routed frayed wire causing an intermittent short is the most exasperating. - Wayne
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Old 11-24-2012, 05:33 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne's Striple View Post
Nine times out of ten when I have seen a problem with a pre-owned motorcycle it is because the previous owner/incompetent mechanic screwed something up, it is rarely a defect in the bike itself. The most frustrating part is trying to diagnose the problem. A carelessly routed frayed wire causing an intermittent short is the most exasperating. - Wayne
And so begins my frustration.

Had the R/R replaced last Friday. Battery was marginal according to the mechanic, so I decided to buy a Ballistic at the same time. After picking it up, rode back to work for a bit before riding home. Monday morning, the bike wouldn't start. (Was 8C; cold starting techniques Ballistic shows didn't seem to help -- power just vanished.)

Tuesday morning the bike still wouldn't start. This time, it was room temp. (The mechanic later told me my Battery Tender Jr isn't strong enough to charge one of these.)

Took the battery back to the dealer and the mechanic checked it -- voltage looked ok to him, and on a (traditional) charger wasn't taking much of a charge. He said the battery *should* have been able to crank it. He also said the battery was their display model and had been on display as long as they'd been selling them. I can understand thinking this would be ok, as low self-discharge is supposed to be a big feature.

Anyway. They've ordered a new one and gave me a lead acid to borrow in the meantime.

Rode to work Wednesday. Fine. Again this morning, but in heavy rain. Bike wouldn't start when I left work.

WT-? The mechanic checked the stator and says it's fine. With the lead acid, I measured idle voltage at 13.15V and ~4krpm at 14.26V. Charging should be fine.

On Friday evening, there was no rain, so at least for that case, that wasn't the problem. Today... maybe it was? Who knows.

I noticed the cable housing for the wires from the ignition is cracked. I measured current draw on the battery this evening at 1.2mA with the bike off. Tried mimicking rain by spraying water around that area. No change.

I lifted the tank and noticed that just behind where the cables go into the body on the left, there's a connector that doesn't look weather-proofed. It wouldn't surprise me if enough water could get between the tank and the frame tube there to drip on top of the connector and cause a problem. I didn't feel brave/stupid enough to try getting that connector wet.

I got rid of my last bike (a nice little '89 CB-1) because it wouldn't start after riding in heavy rain -- though not because of a dead battery. I'd leave it overnight to dry out more and it would be fine. Now I get this with a bike 20 years younger.
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Old 11-25-2012, 11:33 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Maybe the replacement lead-acid battery wasn't much good either; they sulphate over time if they are sitting around and all it takes is one bad cell for hard starting. For colder climates you need the strongest model lithium battery that will fit cos they are sluggish below 10C until they crank for a bit. (I got the 18Ah Shorai for this reason) A standard lithium battery works fine in warmer temps. The computer has a slight draw on the battery when idle so 1.2 mA sounds about right IMO, so I don't think it is a major 'short' causing the problem. Try giving the ignition switch, handlebar switchgear, clutch switch, and kickstand switch all a blast of WD40 which is a water displacer, rust remover, and leaves behind a protective film of light oil. Also watch out you don't leave the ignition in 'park' accidentally. - Wayne

Last edited by Wayne's Striple; 11-25-2012 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:31 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne's Striple View Post
Maybe the replacement lead-acid battery wasn't much good either; they sulphate over time if they are sitting around and all it takes is one bad cell for hard starting.
Maybe. Something to ask them when the replacement battery comes.

Quote:
For colder climates you need the strongest model lithium battery that will fit cos they are sluggish below 10C until they crank for a bit. (I got the 18Ah Shorai for this reason) A standard lithium battery works fine in warmer temps.
...and that makes me wonder if I should call them tomorrow and ask them to change the order -- bought an 8 cell Ballistic. Maybe I should get a 12.

Quote:
The computer has a slight draw on the battery when idle so 1.2 mA sounds about right IMO, so I don't think it is a major 'short' causing the problem. Try giving the ignition switch, handlebar switchgear, clutch switch, and kickstand switch all a blast of WD40 which is a water displacer, rust remover, and leaves behind a protective film of light oil. Also watch out you don't leave the ignition in 'park' accidentally. - Wayne
Yeah, I know all about 'park'. That definitely wasn't it. I'll try the WD-40.

Made some more battery voltage measurements today (a dry day):
  • battery after charging it on the weekend but taking it off Saturday night: 13.5V (approx)
  • after riding to work: 12.3V
  • just before hooking it up to the battery tender at my desk: 12.5V
  • after charging at work (6-7h): 13.8V

Dumb me, forgot to write down the other voltage to check -- battery installed, lights on but not running.

Six to seven hours seems like a long time to get it back to a full charge if the bike was doing much charging.

Maybe rather than waiting until the new battery is in, I'll call the dealer tomorrow to talk to the mechanic. I asked before if it was that my commute isn't long enough to recharge it, but he said it should easily recharge in that time (25 min city driving).
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:23 PM   #20 (permalink)
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If you can get a 12 cell Ballistic that will fit then that would be much better for cold temps. In my experience a 1 amp charger will charge up a good motorcycle lead-acid battery in a half hour or so. Often a battery with one weak cell will initially show high voltage but quickly degrades. - Wayne
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