Triumphrat

DrTriumph · 10-08-2008, 05:51 PM

Well, next step in the process has come.

I checked the battery it is good, holds a charge of 12.86 V.

Checked all the Fuses, also good.

Checked the relays on the side of the bike, they are good as far as I can tell. Hard to really tell when the bike will not power up.

The next is I believe the Starter Solenoid or relay maybe.. I have looked through the service manual and can not find a direct reference to this part. I have looked on the microfish on Bike Bandit and again, can not find this part.

I am including a picture so someone can point it out so I can look into ordering a new one. This part Buzzes when I press the starter button when I have the charger on the bike. Otherwise the bike does not power up with the key on.

Thanks,
Dr. Triumph

kremin · 10-08-2008, 06:09 PM

have you watched the battery voltage while you push the starter button?

DrTriumph · 10-08-2008, 06:34 PM

No, I have no power without the charger attached. I suspect the part in question is stuck open or closed so that when the battery charger is attached it forces some power through.

I am going to remove my battery charge it up again and see if it looses any power over a few weeks, or take it to the battery shop to be tested.

Calliway · 10-08-2008, 07:42 PM

DR Triumph,
I will be in Lethbridge on the 20th.....

Did you check the fuse beside the battery and did you check all of the connections. Also you you can find the schematics of the relays and use a hand held dvom to see if they are working properly.

oldndumb · 10-08-2008, 08:38 PM

The part highlighted in your illustration is the starter solenoid. The enclosure includes a 30 amp fuse that protects all circuits with the exception of the starter motor.

The fact that you have no power without the charger being connected makes me suspect your battery, because a blown 30 amp fuse would shut down all circuits except the starter. When you say it checks good, are you doing a load test? Another indication that makes me suspect the battery is that 12.86vdc is marginally 100% charged. A fresh charged battery in good condition will read higher.

BTW, the solenoid being stuck open would not stop current from feeding to the bikes circuits, less the starter. If it was stuck closed, you would definitely know it.

If you have battery questions, you can study this document:

http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechMan.pdf

Just thought of something else. Where are you connecting your charger? Are you direct to batt or is it to the accessory socket?

CLB · 10-08-2008, 09:21 PM

You will find a 30 Amp fuse under a removable plastic cover on the starter solenoid.
Unclip the cover.
Remove and check the fuse. My guess is that it will be open. It's the larger ATC type.

If open:
Replace the fuse and try starting.

If the replacement blows as soon as it is inserted:
Pull the 2 terminal (2*red/2*black) connector between the rectifier/regulator and the bike harness.
Replace the fuse again.
If the bike now works, your toasted rectifier/regulator is the reason the 30 Amp fuse blew. Start shopping for a new R/R.

If the fuse goes in ok but blows when the ignition is turned on.. that's a different issue.

Post your findings.

Calliway · 10-08-2008, 10:20 PM

That is the one I was talking about, thanks CLB. I couldnt remember the specifics of it.

Also a fully charged battery is 12.6 volts but only if there is no surface charge. Most brand new batteries will read about 12.5 to 12.8 fresh off the shelf. If the battery is a bit older you might get a higher reading, like up in the 13V region but that is due to light sulfation and 15 seconds with the head light on will burn that off right away.

You have an 05 so you also have an AGM battery. How are you charging it? What type of charger are you using? Is it a voltage regulated charger? Does it specifically say its safe for AGM/Gel batteries? If it doesnt you could very well have cooked this battery.

Unregulated chargers charge at anywhere from 14-18 volts. Anything over 14.4 volts on an AGM will start the cooking process. 2 hours at anything over the 14.4 and its done.

DrTriumph · 10-09-2008, 01:35 PM

Thanks for all the good Ideas.

First off, the 30 amp fuse at the solenoid is good. Visual and tested with my meter.

Second the battery is new as of June, I am thinking of taking it out and back to Battery Direct to have them test it.

The Charger Says it is safe for Acid Glass Matt, it Charges on 2A and 6A. I always use the 2A charge. I have in the past charged via the accessory slot, but since the problem started all charging has been done via direct battery contact.

I will have to pull my battery again and take it back to be tested I think. I have an old battery in the house I am going to try hooking it up. I am praying it is just a bad battery.

Thanks again guys, if anything else comes up.. feel free to shoot them my way.

Dr. T.

oldndumb · 10-09-2008, 01:42 PM

Good of you to keep us informed. So many others ask for info and never respond back.

I'm still betting on the battery.

Pcdabbler · 10-09-2008, 01:50 PM

+1 on the Battery. They don't seem to make em like they used to ..