Clutch Problem?

[johnny]

Hey all. My 2002 ST has just started an anoying problem. Now at 24,000miles (still factory clutches), when shifting into 1st gear (from a dead stop) it "clunks" into gear. Even upshifts and downshifts are grabby-feeling, like the clutch is sticking or something.

i.e; I have very little or no more smooth gear engagement. I thought maybe I had bent 1st gear-shifter fork, but Im thinking it is a clutch issue now. I adjusted the cable exactly as per Triumph shop manual, but its still doing this. Im afraid of doing damage to gears if this keeps up.

Anyone out there with any input on this issue?

[Gearhead_42]

Hmmm... can't give much input that's directly related to your model, but I can help with general symptoms. Typically a worn clutch starts slipping more, not grabbing, so unless Triumph has reinvented the wheel, I would push that to the bottom of the list of possibilities.

My 2004 RS uses a cable clutch, does your ST as well? It may be that the cable has finally stretched enough that the factory adjustment is out of range. Rather than replacing straight off though, check the clutch lever end to make sure it isn't bent, the barrel is still in it's right place, and check the input lever (on the clutch housing) as well for cable engagement and for bent out of shape bits.

Hope I didn't just confuse things. Hoping to "help as much as I ask for help". (See, I read the sticky! )

Dan

Edit: I did just thought of a way the clutch itself could be causing things... depending on the type of clutch plates used, one of the discs could have begun to delaminate and "swell", causing clutch drag even with the actuation working perfectly. Oops...

[DaveM]

When did you last do an oil change?

What oil are you using?

DaveM

[Fullchat]

CHAINS!!! Certainly the 1050 Sprint likes a clean, well lubed and correctly adjusted chain. If they are even slightly neglected gear changes become rough. If the chain is right gear changes are as smooth as silk.

[Coroja]

I concur with Gearhead_42, sounds like you have a clutch that isn't releasing completely. If you haven't adjusted your clutch recently, I would check that. On the right side of the engine, just ahead of where the toe of your boot is when you ride, there is a rod sticking out of the top of the clutch cover with a short, horizontal lever pointing in (toward the centerline of the bike). The clutch cable pull on this lever causing it to rotate clockwise about 30 degrees when you disengage the clutch. With the clutch fully engaged (handlebar level released), you should be able to wiggle this lever with your fingers easily about 1/8 in (2 mm). If it is tight, the bar lever is out of adjustment and/or the cable has stretched.

If the clutch doesn't disengage fully, the lever will feel stiff and the transmission will emit a "clunk" when you shift (ask me how I know). If you have recently installed an adjustable clutch lever (e.g. Pazzo) there is a good chance the clutch wasn't readjusted properly. Many dealer service personnel don't realize that the initial clutch adjustment with these levers must be made in the full out position. You can then use the lever adjustment to reduce the span to the bar to suit your hand size, riding style, etc. Making the initial adjustment with the level in one of the other positions will cause it to put tension on the cable if you change the setting to increase the span (again, AMHIK).

Adjusting the clutch is really quick and only requires two 10 mm open-end wrenches. However, you will probably have to remove the right side fairing to get sufficient access to do it easily.

Hope this helps.

[johnny]

I use the factory recomended Mobil 1-4T oil, that I changed less than 2000 miles ago. I service all my bikes myself, relying on dealers for mainly parts. But this problm has me stumped.

Im not really thinking the clutch is worn per-say, but I am thinking this is an issue with the clutch. Im gonna once again do a re-adjustment of the clutch cable and related parts. I guess I shoulda added....my bike is a completely-stock daily driver. 'Cept for brake pad and tires, all is as came from the factory.

FullChat...Im assuming you are talking about the drive-chain?? It is quite a bit on the loose side, and I am going to adjust as well.

I appreciate the input. Im trying to avoid paying for a dealer to diagnose!!

[dolson]

Don't forget to look at the freeplay. If your chain is at the loose end of specs. leave it alone.

[dolson]

Don't forget to look at the freeplay. If your chain is at the loose end of specs. leave it alone. Just clean and lube if you must.

[johnny]

Reading thru my service manual, I see there is a "gearchange-alignment" that can be done. this is something i will to look into when I start to pull things apart.

Thanx for all the replies, Ill report back with my findings soon.

[johnny]

Originally Posted by Gearhead_42

Hmmm... can't give much input that's directly related to your model, but I can help with general symptoms. Typically a worn clutch starts slipping more, not grabbing, so unless Triumph has reinvented the wheel, I would push that to the bottom of the list of possibilities.

My 2004 RS uses a cable clutch, does your ST as well? It may be that the cable has finally stretched enough that the factory adjustment is out of range. Rather than replacing straight off though, check the clutch lever end to make sure it isn't bent, the barrel is still in it's right place, and check the input lever (on the clutch housing) as well for cable engagement and for bent out of shape bits.

Hope I didn't just confuse things. Hoping to "help as much as I ask for help". (See, I read the sticky! )

Dan

Edit: I did just thought of a way the clutch itself could be causing things... depending on the type of clutch plates used, one of the discs could have begun to delaminate and "swell", causing clutch drag even with the actuation working perfectly. Oops...

Thats kinda what it feels like.....like the clutch is dragging! When I pop it in first or even second, I just noticed the drive-chain hop's from a slight movement in the output shaft as it goes in to said gear. I still have the factory-clutches @24,000 miles.

It starts with the harsh gear-engagement at temps just before the fan comes on. When cold (or maybe because it sat for a few days) to warm its smooth engagement as new.