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Need some solid advice on forks

2K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  redmosquito1 
#1 ·
ok, from what I've been told my 1999 st triple trees are 43mm, and somewhere I read that R1 GSXR1000 and duc 999 are all 43mm as well. So, my thought is to find the most complete cheapest front end from one of these bikes.

On ebay right now there is a 1998 R1 complete front end buy it now for $400.

this is the address,

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998...015QQitemZ250284234351QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I dont know how to hyperlink so i'll paste for you guys. Wondering if these would fit.

My exact thoughts are this - find a 43mm full set up so I can keep my top tree and bars controls etc. Am I off on my thought on this? I noticed DEcosse had a custom top triple made top triple made up. Is this necessary?

I really like the fit of my bike, and my main fear is I'd change the angle at which i reach the bars to be more like a crotch rocket and I bought the sprint cause I didnt want that.

Thanks Guys
Tom
 
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#2 ·
Tom,

Unless I'm mistaken, the 43mm refers to the tubes. The R1 has an USD setup, so the uppers are going to be 50+ mm. Not a problem, if you get the trees and stem.

However, you'll need to finagle the fit of the trees, like determining the proper bearings, the length of the stem, filing off the stops on the lower tree, and finding a set of clip-on handlebars (if they don't come with the trees), etc.

In short, anything is possible, you need to decide how much effort you want to put into the job.

Otherwise, you can do the Race-tech job (springs and GVEs) on your tubes, and maybe go with 6-pot calipers if you think you need stronger brakes. You'd have simlar, if not better front end performance, and for a heck of a lot less time and effort; probably cheaper.

pr
 
#3 ·
Actually Tom you are asking about the unknown except for DECosse's conversion.

As pushr0d is saying, with a milling machine, lathe, tig welder, grinder and a fat wallet anything is possible.

You will have to do your own research on this. All 43mm tubes aren't created equal and neither are triple trees. You can see the differences in just the Triumph line of sporty bikes. Then go cross manufacturer?

Maybe DECosse has come across some engineering diagrams of other brand bikes in looking for his GSXR conversion.

Other than that I doubt anyone here can help you out other than as a cheering section.

Don
 
#4 ·
Are you doing this because your forks got damaged in the crash?

If you are wouldn't, you be better to do an insurance claim? You are replacing all the plastics, the forks..... I think i would just pay my deductable and get my bike in riding condition again.
 
#6 ·
redmosquito1 - I don't think you've grasped the difference yet between USD and 'conventional' forks
Yours are conventional - the inner (steel) tube is bolted to your triple tree; the outside tubes (aluminum) incorporate the axle & caliper mounts and are at the bottom.
A USD (UpSide Down) is the other way around (hence the moniker): the outer tubes are mounted to the triple clamps and these are obviously much bigger diameter. The inner tube which is now the lower, has an additional component fitted to the bottom of it that is the feature to which the axle & calipers are bolted.

These are conventional .................................................................... These are USD



There is NOTHING that is a direct bolt-in without having to take all the other elements into consideration.

If you want to use your triple trees then you must find a CONVENTIONAL set of 43mm forks; even that sounds simple, however you must then recognize that perhaps the spacing between your fork centers and the donors might be different; so even if using the axle, wheel, rotors, calipers etc (which would all likely be different from your sprint) there still remains possibility (likelihood) that you would require custom axle spacers. And then you have the speedo drive to contend with ....

There's a lot work in customizing something from another bike to fit. It requires a lot of precision measurement & custom manufacture of spacers.
My well-intended advice in your case is to try to stick with the original configuration - either straigten your tubes or try to find some direct Sprint replacments - the design is relatively unchanged through the different model years & even for those minor differences the OEM parts are at least available; so you might broaden your search
 
#9 ·
OnD, I sent you a pm, very very interested.

DEcosse, I dont know why it didn't click with me till now, but I get why the aren't bolt ins. duh. haha wow.

Also, being that I'm young and not so wise I was runnin with minimum insurance. I purchased the bike in such a fashion that I was only required to place PLPD insurance on the bike. Looking back th $500 i saved per year would have been money well spent. Oh well, toss that in the lesson learned the hard way pile accumulating from this crash.

Ok, now would a conventional set of 1995 speed triple forks work? On Ebay now, guy wants 200 for both legs. Says the upper tubes are 43mm. intention would be to utilize lower forks and graft upper forks on, re-using as many current internals as I can. I can link if you guys want.

Thanks again
Tom
 
#10 ·
....
Ok, now would a conventional set of 1995 speed triple forks work? .... Says the upper tubes are 43mm. intention would be to utilize lower forks and graft upper forks on, re-using as many current internals as I can....
Hey Tom - pictures worth a thousand words, eh?

Read through my post again though, regarding the issues of trying to match components - now you are looking at trying to fit one inner tube from one generation (although same marque, different model) into some different lower tubes - because they are the same diameter does not necessarily mean you can swap them in any more than my comments re a completely different marque. (I don't know that but not inclined to look because my strong suspicion is not worth the effort (to attempt to execute such a swap, not to look!)

I recognize the budget restraint - you have to recognize however the ultimate total cost of trying to so something non-standard vs an off the shelf bolt-in. After I read some more about your circumstances, I sincerely believe that an alternative swap (to different product) is not in your best interest, certainly cost-wise.
Think some more about your suggestion above - even if you could marry the parts together, just taking a set of forks apart is not trivial - that requires special tools - added cost that doesn't even go into the final result but you need to spend $$$ just to get to there.

I empathize with your insurance dilemma - we have to weigh odds of definite money out now, or maybe later - if at all.
In your case unfortunate. But if you had full coverage and claimed on it & especially if you are young (how old might I ask?), you can bet your renewal premiums would sky-rocket from what you paid initially after a claim - & you'd still have to meet deductible anyway.
But we live & learn - the key is to keep the shiny side up & rubber down - the costs are well in control using that method:p

Talk to OnD - see what he has to say.
 
#11 ·
Hi Tom,
I can't really add much, because I am quite sure I don't know half of what Don, OND or DEcosse know about this, or any other mechanical things.

What I can add, and being a good judge of character that I am.

Is, that you should, and I know you are, listen carefully to these guys especially DEcosse and OND about the forks stuff.

Why? Because they are both very clever and experienced at this sort of thing.

We are very fortunate as a forum to have the help of such knowledgeable members who are prepared to help those who will help themselves.

Tom it is just one of those things about being young, so don't use energy beating yourself up.

My riding has always been a bit extreme, I am nearing 50 now and it still is, but the difference is I have learned a lot about riding by making lots of painful mistakes............I have said before not the recommended learning method.

I think I have crashed more than most (at least 12 times), at least nowadays it is a very very rare occurrence (touch wood as I hold hand on head:rolleyes:).

Carry on guys I just wanted to say that.

Good luck with the bike rebuild Tom, you will get there I can tell, financial constraints or no.:)

cheers,
DaveM
 
#12 ·
For a marked improvement! Try heavier weight springs and 15w oil. I went for 0.95kg linear rate springs(maxton) with a 140mm air gap and 103mm spacers + stock washers, which suited my weight of 12 stone and still give me the standard range of preload adjustment...cost £70 quid.
Going down the usd forks route is a better option but expensive, you will also need triple clamps, handlebars, springs, oil and set-up(remember the sprint is 44kg heavier than the gixer). You are also going to have to replace the sprint 'unrefined' standard shock to get the full benefits of the usd front end.
 
#13 ·
...Going down the usd forks route is a better option but expensive, you will also need triple clamps, handlebars, springs, oil and set-up....
..... and a whole bunch of other stuff!

The springs & oil are nice suggestions for anyone looking to improve the OEM forks, but given his declared budget constraints, let's just get the lad mobile again without added investment which can come a bit later.
 
#17 ·
Ummm...

Please correct me if I'm wrong. but wouldn't those '95 Speed Triple forks bolt right up? AFAIK, T3-series Speed Triple/Daytona forks are the easiest way to get 3-way adjustables onto our bikes...

Cheers,
-Kit
 
#18 ·
Maybe that is another option, if you want to consider a 13 year old set, if you could locate one, and then rebuild it. Then there is the ignition switch and steering lock fitments, and don't forget the travel stops if you value your tank.

I am not that familiar with the older models, but I have to wonder about the wheel spacing and caliper centering. I did a quick check for commonality of parts between a 95 and 99 and did not see any. One thing that raised a flag in my mind is that the axle is different for the 95. Most other Sprints use the same axle since at least 99. Another concern would be any stem bearing differences between those years.

That doesn't mean it could not be done.

It just depends on how much you want to spend, and what your machining resources are.

PS.....None of them "bolt right up" unless they are specific to the bike.
 
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