Triumphrat

JasonS · 03-30-2005

I took three rides last week.. the bike was stored with Stabil in the tank and ran fine all last week. I went to start it last night, after two days of hard rain.... It cranks over, managed to sputter twice in separate cranking attempts... and again this morning. It s likely flooded by the gas smell..... I rolled it out into the sun and stiff breeze and tried again around midday... still no go and a sputter....

Before I "yank the plugs" ( which I am assuming I'll be advised to do anyway.. :hammer: ) I wanted to ask about any moisture issues. The ST is stored in the garage, but the doors were open during the heavy rain.. but no direct moisture... I should have put the cover back on..

I'm still working so I can't "do" anything for a few hours yet anyway..

other likely suspects are squirrel/mouse storage facility issues ( check air box), whacky computer ( disconnect battery)..

any other clever ideas?

Sport · 03-30-2005

Plugs :hammer:

JasonS · 03-30-2005

errr.. crap...

I left the serv manual at home..

anyone got quick steps to the plugs?

tank, then then then??

thanks

Sport · 03-30-2005

1) Create a nice place to set the fuel tank (like a box or a small tire.

2) Remove Seat.

3) Remove both side plastics.

4) On right side of tank, disconnect two vent lines, electric plug (fuel pump) and both Fuel lines (the two fuel lines have a quick disconnect mechanism-by pressing the chrome tab and pulling the lines away from each other).

5) Unscrew Both rear tank bolts (star bolts, but I used carefully an allen wrench) and the forward tank bolt.

6) Lift Tank approx 5" and disconnect Fuel Guage line below tank.

7) Set tank aside

8) Remove the airbox by disconnecting the three hoses on the front of air box. (There is no need to remove the electric wire on top). There are two star bolts towards the aft rear of the Air box (again, I used simple allen wrenches.) on the aft end of the air box. Gently rock the airbox for and aft while pulling up. Once the boots are freed from the Carburators, you should be able to tilt airbox back and have it rest standing up on end.

9) pull rubberized baffle back; however, there is no need to removing it.

10) You will see three large wires connecting to the top of the engine. Twist back and forth while giving a good yank up. The plugs are way down at the bottom of those holes.

11) Reverse the process to re-install. (The Air box boots shouldn't be too difficult to rock back on. Just be sure all three boots are complety installed beofre proceeding.

Hope this helps.

[ This message was edited by: Sport on 2005-03-30 12:45 ]

JasonS · 03-30-2005

Thanks for the steps... it helped !!

So the plugs were wet and dark... removed, cleaned w/MEK etc ... cranked over a few times w/plugs out... reinstalled the whole mess and she started right up ( imagine that!) ... but now the "check engine light came on... I disconnected the Batt for a bit and we'll see if that clears it.. .assuming it came on becuse I cranked it without the plugs/airbox/Fuel-tank connected...

cheers!

Speed3 · 03-30-2005

To clear the check engine light, assuming any problems are rectified, you must go through 3 heat cycles. Fire it up, run until the fan goes on. Let it cool a bit and repeat 2 more times, and that should clear the warning light.

JasonS · 03-30-2005

I figured as much... I like schmaht computers... my Saab does the same thing.. .

Now that I've done that once, I bet I could have all three spark plugs removed in 10 minutes or less..

While it is a bit of an excavation to get at them, it isn't brain surgery either, and is really idiot proof...

thanks again for the help... just had a nice short ride and am letting it run for 10 minutes on the sidestand..

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

and to think I was questioning myself recently on the $$$$ I have involved,... today there is no question