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Old 07-17-2008   #11 (permalink)
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I know they're out in the open, but they are close enough to the fairing that even I would consider removing the fairing just to allow any tools in that area, last thing I'd ever want to do is scratch one of my own fairings.

Guess I should've clarified my concerns and ideas.

Thanks OnD.

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Old 07-18-2008   #12 (permalink)
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Feeling the Increased Oil Prices

What's a clutch cable? J/K Seriously though, oil change went super smooth. I think the dealership had the filter on a little tight as I couldn't get it off with my bare hands or a strap so I had to use the good 'ol screwdriver and hammer method. This is why I prefer K&N oil filters, nothing to do with performance over OEM, but that lil 17mm nut makes oil changes so much easier.

On a different note, and I've seen the rage over oil threads but this isn't about what type of oil, but where is a good place to get Mobil 1 4T 15w50 online? My dealership was the only place on the island I could find that had it and they charged me $55 per 4L jug. OUCH! If anyone knows of any good places please share!
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Old 07-18-2008   #13 (permalink)
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$55 for a liter jug is less than I paid for the last one I bought in Fl.

BTW, you opened the dreaded oil door and now the opinions will run rampant. You will pay for that.

As to the filter tightness, although the shops tend to over-tighten them, you shouldn't. One half to three quarter turn after the seal contacts the mating surface is enough. Then run it and check for any leaks.

This reminder hasn't been mentioned in a while. Always check to be sure that the old seal comes off with the old filter. If it separates from the filter, and remains stuck to the bottom of the sump, you will not see it. If this happens, and you put the new filter on with the old seal stuck in place, you will have a leaker.
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Old 07-18-2008   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scubajosh77 View Post
I think the dealership had the filter on a little tight as I couldn't get it off with my bare hands or a strap so I had to use the good 'ol screwdriver and hammer method. This is why I prefer K&N oil filters, nothing to do with performance over OEM, but that lil 17mm nut makes oil changes so much easier.
If you can get an oil filter off with your bare hands, then it wasn't tightened enough! The rubber will swell slightly from the oil, which is why they recommend a wrench to get them off.
I use NAPA filters and found a socket type wrench that was cheap that fits the filter and works perfect! But it didn't fit the stock Triumph filter. I was able to get the first filter off with a strap wrench though.
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Old 07-18-2008   #15 (permalink)
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fairing removal

i was lucky enough to need to remove the fairing 3 times in my first month.
first to fit the (most excellent) radguard
second time to put in the 2 bolts left over from fitting the radguard, must of too much of that delicious carlton draught while fitting
third time was when the left side crankcover tried to vacate the bike, leaving me with an oily left boot (i feel like a real trumpy rider now) and oily left side of rear tyre, glad i noticed on a straight boring road
this happenened with less than 100kms on the clock
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