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05-07-2008, 10:58 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Member
Grand Prix 125 Favourite Bike: My 2000 ST
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Carmel, NY
Posts: 31 Other Motorcycle: 1982 Honda CB 750
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Fork oil
how can I tell if I need my fork oil changed? I bought the bike a 2001 with 24K miles a few months ago. I just did an oil change, air filter, new tires and am getting brake fluid and coolant done this weekend. Along with that I purchased a used but newer shock from a member here so my pockets are quite empty. Someone at work recommended I do the fork oil, and was going to along with the brake fluid and coolant, but the dealer told me this would take about 2 - 3 hours and I cannot afford that labor. Is it imperative to get done? Can I hold off a couple months and what are the benefits if I do it now?
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05-07-2008, 11:22 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme Favourite Bike: Sprint 1050
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 729
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In short, you can't tell when you need to change the fork oil unless you drain the oil out in which case you may as well change the oil anyway.
Most suspension people would recommend an oil change every 2 years or 25,000km or when your fork seals leak.
Guaranteed, your oil will now be a grayish colour with lots of wear particles in it. Nothing to be overly worried about but it will accelerate the deterioration of your slider bushes and fork seals.
Most slider bushes and seals will last in excess of 50,000km if the fork stantions are in good condition.
A fork oil change is not a hard job to do yourself so long as you have 2-3 hours spare, some oil, something to support your front end and a service manual.
Holding off the service for 2-3 months should not be a problem. I wouldn't lose any sleep over waiting.
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05-08-2008, 12:05 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Senior Member
World SuperBike Favourite Bike: '03 Sprint ST
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Baja 'Bama (Panama City, FL)
Posts: 1,910 Other Motorcycle: 2000 Sprint ST (wrecked) Extra Motorcycle: 1988 FXR Lowrider (sold)
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+1 for Ralphus' comments.
I'd add that you'll need a lot of tools, and most importantly, a way to either hold the rear end of the bike down, or the front of the bike up when you take the forks tubes off.
I have an eyebolt threaded into my garage floor. Hook a ratcheting tiedown to it and the luggage rack, and Robert's your father's brother!
You can do a search on this site for the gory details of the job. Not much to it, but it does take a while.
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05-08-2008, 02:33 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme Favourite Bike: Black Thruxton 08
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Warrnambool, Vic, Australia
Posts: 500 Other Motorcycle: Silver Sprint 06
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Same response here. Allow yourself enough time to go about it quietly, maybe with a beer or two or a coffee or whatever. Taking off the fairing panels if you havent done this before is good as your get to understand a bit more of what you have got and how its put together. 'Crack' open the top spring retaining cap before you undo the triple clamp bolts. The lower triple clamp bolt is pretty vital hence I prefer to remove the fairing panels to get the best access to this to loosen and tighten. I reckon to drain and change the oil simply undo the top cap and invert each fork leg and allow to drain. I am a bit of an environmental vandal and I use fresh oil to flush out. I flush out till the discharge is clear, usually about 3 or so attempts. Then refill refit and as the others have said Robert is your Uncle.
If the suspension is standard and if you are happy with the suspension performance refill with 10wt fork oil (good quality) and maintain the required air gap when fully compressed with spring out. If you want to firm it up try the next wt oil, say 15wt, and a little less air gap, say 15mm less. This will harden the suspension a bit and also reduce dive under brakes a bit. Not a lot here, a little bit OK. Don't make the mistake of trying to measure the oil quantity, measure the air gap to the fork oil after you have 'worked' all the air bubbles out. New 'standard' oil at standard level probably won't offer any change in performance for normal riding.
Have fun and take your time.
Cheers, Simmo
__________________
Ride it while you can.
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05-08-2008, 02:54 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperSport Favourite Bike: Triumph
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,264
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As a general observation I would add that keeping fresh fluids in your bike is cheap insurance. Doing otherwise to "get your moneys worth" is a false economy.
__________________
...always remember the lubrication...
My shiny red 675 morphed into a shiny (soon to be muddy) Scrambler!
(The Scrambler became flying lessons...)
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05-08-2008, 11:53 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Member
Grand Prix 125 Favourite Bike: My 2000 ST
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Carmel, NY
Posts: 31 Other Motorcycle: 1982 Honda CB 750
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Thanks for all the responses. While I do consider myself somewhat handy I dont think I can do this job, but more importantly just wanted to know if I was inflicting permanent damage by not doing so. I will most likely hold off for now as I have spent way too much $$ already and its only May. Thanks again!
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05-08-2008, 09:34 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme Favourite Bike: Black Thruxton 08
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Warrnambool, Vic, Australia
Posts: 500 Other Motorcycle: Silver Sprint 06
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Its not that hard to do. The main requirements are a bit of controlled space, ie in a garage or shed with the ability to put things here and there, and a bit of time. Fork oil, while it may be a tad expensive on a per volume rate, is relatively cheap for the volume you will use. Its good therapy.
Cheers, Simmo
__________________
Ride it while you can.
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