Triumphrat

Chillerguy · 04-13-2008, 09:18 PM

Ok, as the topic says, it won't start. It's a 2k5 ST with 11,000 on it. I decided i would do some of the 12,000 mile service stuff early before I started to run it this spring (Oil change, coolant change, plugs, air filter). I wanted to warm it up a bit before changing the oil. Well, all it does is crank. It doesn't cough, hiccup, nothing. I have changed the plugs but nothing else yet.

I know one mistake I made was parking it with very little gas in it. I got out one day back in January with it and the fuel light was one when I parked it. It sat for a good two months before I tried to start it again (which is now). I added two gallons of fresh fuel to it also. Some of the guys I work with recommended I add Stabil now to "un gum" any "gum" but that hasn't seemed to help. Seemed kind of like putting the cart in front of the horse but I figured "what the hay"

. Another suggestion was to tear apart the fuel system to check for any gummed up fuel. I just got the injectors out but I have not seen any "gum" as of yet.

I have made an appointment at the only dealer close but they messed up my first appointment and told me it would be two more weeks now. So I have decided to try to figure it out myself.

One other thing I have read on here about starting problems is to check for spark at the plug. I am not exactly sure how to go about this without getting shocked as the leads to the coils aren't very long. So any suggestions on how to accomplish this with out getting zapped would be appreciated as well.

I look forward to any suggestions you guys (or gals) have, thanks!

Kirk

caddydaddy · 04-13-2008, 10:07 PM

To check for spark, you can buy a tester. Mine is a Briggs & Stratton and has a little window to view the spark. Or you could stick a paperclip, or something metal into the spark plug boot, and hold it close to the top of the spark plug to check for any spark while it's cranking.

Garyhjd · 04-13-2008, 10:10 PM

I've done it on a car by putting a phillips screwdriver into the plug boot and holding the shaft near the head and watching for a spark. You could also do this with the plug as well. Now with the screwdriver you get a nice big plastic handle to hold onto. And getting bit while checking this doesn't hurt to bad

.

gary

Calliway · 04-13-2008, 10:41 PM

I wouldnt worry to much about gumming.... really. If you run good fuel sitting isnt an issue. Mine sat from November to late february before I tried to start it and it wouldnt start. You can read my thread on it. Just search for it.

First thing is make sure that you now have fresh fuel in it, which you do. Make sure the injector stuff you took apart is back in as it should be.

You can check for spark by holding on to the rubber portion of the boot and grounding the electrode against the valve cover or head and give it a quick crank. But really just go get new plugs. The dealer is expensive so look on the sticky threads for the plug number, CR9EK (I think so double check) go to an autoparts store and by the plugs for half the dealer. Give the parts guy the number because no catalgue in NAmerica lists a 1050 Sprint. Gap is 7mm.

Put in fresh plugs, fresh air filter, button everything up and charge the battery. Should start. Let it run up and let it cycle through the fan. Don't touch it just let it idle.

Mine took fresh plugs and new battery and it fired right up.

Chillerguy · 04-13-2008, 11:44 PM

I changed the plugs, I changed the air filter, still no starting. Battery has been on a tender all along.

JohnB · 04-14-2008, 12:37 AM

Well I guess what I'd do is spray some ether (starting fluid ) or some gasoline into the cylinders, with a dash of WD40, replug, and see if she'll start. If she starts and then dies, you probably have a fuel delivery problem...gummed up injectors I suppose. If she doesn't start, I'd then buy a spark tester for a couple of $ and try that.
You're right that the Stabil isn't going to do any good now. Seafoam is supposed to be quite good so maybe you can try that.

oldndumb · 04-14-2008, 12:47 AM

It is very easy to tell the difference in good and bad gas by the varnish smell if you are paying attention.

Cal, he already changed the plugs.

Chiller, sometimes people use the term "tender" generically for any brand/type of battery charger. Specifically what brand of charger is it, and do you have a VOM?

With just what you describe,I'm guessing a bad battery.

BTW, tell the guy at work that Stabil does not disolve varnish, it prevents it.

I have heard from several sources that Seafoam is a good product, but I always thought you need the engine running to use it?

Chillerguy · 04-14-2008, 06:59 AM

oldndumb, you think a bad battery even though it will crank? I have to admit it doesn't make sense to me. As someone who deals with electricity on a regular basis (although of the 230/460 VAC variety) I would think that if a battery had the juice to turn over the engine with no problems surely there would be enough juice to do whatever else is required? I will admit I have minimal experience with this sort of thing so if I am in error in my thoughts please correct me.

A thought just occurred to me, is there a minimum voltage required to fire the plugs? If so I would be able to check the voltage off the battery while cranking to so if it drops to low. If that won't tell me if its bad or not what can I do to verify if the battery is bad or not? Thanks.

BTW, I do own a meter, a Fluke 87. As for the "tender" its a Schumacher SE-1562A.

Kirk

Pcdabbler · 04-14-2008, 08:06 AM

It could well be .. As I understand it the ECU looks at the cranking voltage and the crankshaft sensor before turning on the fuel injectors. A weak cell or two in the battery can easily cause this type of problem. Also for some reason, the battery in the 1050 tends to only last one or two years at best. Are the plugs wet when you pull them ? also try a jump start from another battery ...

Chillerguy · 04-14-2008, 09:19 AM

Any reason I can't jump it off of my truck? I'm thinking not but I've been wrong before...