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Alternator Anyone?

3K views 22 replies 5 participants last post by  Sport 
#1 ·
My first real problem. After letting the bike sit for almost two months (recent move to the cold, a.k.a. East Coast) the battery, of course, died. I jumped started the bike, but noticed the yellow engine light remained on. After a good warm-up I rode around the block, approx 5 miles, then returned home (yellow light remaining on), shut the engine off and tried to re-start the bike to no avail. I seemed to have good head lights still, but not enough juice to turn the engine. Does this sound like an alternator to you? How about the voltage regulator???
If it is anyone of these, does another RAT here have an extra 2002 ST charging unit they would like to sell?
Also too, how much do they usually cost new?

Thank you for your insights.

SPORT

[ This message was edited by: Sport on 2005-02-27 15:24 ]
 
#3 ·
OK, so I'll need to buy a charger. However, should the yellow engine light remain on while the engine is running? That is, is the Onboard computer picking up a charging error (or some other electrical problem) or will the onboard computer also detect a low voltage reading, which could also place the bike in lame mode... I mean limp mode (As the manufacture calls it)?
 
#6 ·
I've charged the battery and have not experienced any problems starting the bike in the past 3 days. The engine light is still on; however, I haven't had a chance to ride her much and only ran it till it got to operating temperatures 2-3 times now. Hopefully today when I get home the engine light will not be illuminated. One concern I have though is that my Battery charger has an Alternator check button. When depressed, it reads a fault. I realize the alternator is under load from the get-go because of continuous headlight operation, and that at idle there is virtually no charge from the alternator, but has anybody experienced alternator problems? I'm under the impression that Triumph ST alternators are nearly fault free.
I have 15k miles on my 02 ST


[ This message was edited by: Sport on 2005-03-04 10:34 ]
 
#7 ·
I've charged the battery and have not experienced any problems starting the bike in the past 3 days. The engine light is still on; however, I haven't had a chance to ride her much and only ran it till it got to operating temperatures 2-3 times now. Hopefully today when I get home the engine light will not be illuminated. One concern I have though is that my Battery charger has an Alternator check button. When depressed, it reads a fault. I realize the alternator is under load from the get-go because of continuous headlight operation, and that at idle there is virtually no charge from the alternator, but has anybody experienced alternator problems? I'm under the impression that Triumph ST alternators are nearly fault free.
I have 15k miles on my 02 ST


[ This message was edited by: Sport on 2005-03-04 10:34 ]
 
#9 ·
Ok, Ok, do not quote me on this - but I could have sworn I read somewhere (my manual, service manual, or here?) that under a certain RPM (like 3K or so!) there's almost no juice from this alternator. Actually maybe it was from the heated clothing guys....shoot I don't know.

Somebody correct me.....
 
#8 ·
Ok, Ok, do not quote me on this - but I could have sworn I read somewhere (my manual, service manual, or here?) that under a certain RPM (like 3K or so!) there's almost no juice from this alternator. Actually maybe it was from the heated clothing guys....shoot I don't know.

Somebody correct me.....
 
#10 ·
I have ran the bike (in my garage) three times now and that ***** engine light is still on. So if I understand Shawboy correctly, I should probably ride the bike 3-4 times (above 3k RPM) before the engine management light should go out? Sounds like a good plan...just got-a-wait till the OAT warms up a bit.

Thanks for the insights.
 
#11 ·
Check if the connections on the battery poles are firmly attached.
Start the bike, let it turn until the fan kicks in. kill engine let cool.
Repeat 2 more times. (total = 3)

If you want to check the alternator, check the voltage between the battery poles, should be around13 - 14V

Once if engine is killed you should still have >12V in it.

If lights stay on, maybe go to a dealer who can check the codes.

[ This message was edited by: SpiderTex on 2005-03-08 08:11 ]
 
#13 ·
Sounds like a good plan SpiderTex; however, I went to start it the other day and it only ran on two cylinders. I shut it down until the next day. The following day I tried starting it and it would not as much as act like it had fire to the plugs. I tried starting it until the batt. gave out. Do to the smell of raw fuel I know it is getting fuel (flooded it). I haven't messed with the timing; therefore the timing must be OK. The only thing left is Ignition. I'm assuming the engine light was/is tied to a potential ignition problem and not neccessarily to a dead battery. Is this normal?
I haven't had this many problems with any bike while living on the West Coast. Are you East Coast riders use to having so many problems (i.e. dying battery and ignition problems)?

Thanks for any insights.



[ This message was edited by: Sport on 2005-03-10 10:24 ]
 
#12 ·
Sounds like a good plan SpiderTex; however, I went to start it the other day and it only ran on two cylinders. I shut it down until the next day. The following day I tried starting it and it would not as much as act like it had fire to the plugs. I tried starting it until the batt. gave out. Do to the smell of raw fuel I know it is getting fuel (flooded it). I haven't messed with the timing; therefore the timing must be OK. The only thing left is Ignition. I'm assuming the engine light was/is tied to a potential ignition problem and not neccessarily to a dead battery. Is this normal?
I haven't had this many problems with any bike while living on the West Coast. Are you East Coast riders use to having so many problems (i.e. dying battery and ignition problems)?

Thanks for any insights.



[ This message was edited by: Sport on 2005-03-10 10:24 ]
 
#17 ·
Yikes! I had a full warranty (parts and labor) on the West Coast. Of course, now that I am on the East Coast, I no longer have that warranty from my dealer. Maybe its time to repair and sell, and by another with a service plan???

I'm hoping to spend a little time this weekend diagnosing what I can.

Any other thoughts on this matter?
 
#16 ·
Yikes! I had a full warranty (parts and labor) on the West Coast. Of course, now that I am on the East Coast, I no longer have that warranty from my dealer. Maybe its time to repair and sell, and by another with a service plan???

I'm hoping to spend a little time this weekend diagnosing what I can.

Any other thoughts on this matter?
 
#19 ·
The coil is just an idea, could be a lot of things.

Selling the Sprint is, of course, entirely your call.
But they are pretty sturdy machines. On this site there is a member with over 100.000 miles on it.
I'm at 50.000Km (31.000 miles) and the bike is still going great.

After all could also be a sparkplug going awol....
Or gas going bad...

if you identified the dead cylinder, swap the coil to another cylinder... if the problem moves its the coil.

Then swap the plug, if problem moves, then its the plug.

Maybe pop in the bike at a dealer and let him download the error codes and see what the real problem is...

success
 
#18 ·
The coil is just an idea, could be a lot of things.

Selling the Sprint is, of course, entirely your call.
But they are pretty sturdy machines. On this site there is a member with over 100.000 miles on it.
I'm at 50.000Km (31.000 miles) and the bike is still going great.

After all could also be a sparkplug going awol....
Or gas going bad...

if you identified the dead cylinder, swap the coil to another cylinder... if the problem moves its the coil.

Then swap the plug, if problem moves, then its the plug.

Maybe pop in the bike at a dealer and let him download the error codes and see what the real problem is...

success
 
#20 ·
Sport, Did you ever really check your Batt. or replace it? Didn't come across it here.
These things are very electrical and need a topped up state. They won't run with a low or weak Batt. Your's is what, 2 years old and had run about flat.

Any shop can put a tester on it if you can't and tell the batt. state.

Frankly, I'd just put in a new one and get a good tender. The Batt. will stay up and last a lot longer.

IF your factory warranty is still in effect it's good anywhere.

This really sounds like a battery issue. The engine light won't go out if there is still a electrical issue.

Just my $.02,

Don
 
#21 ·
Sport, Did you ever really check your Batt. or replace it? Didn't come across it here.
These things are very electrical and need a topped up state. They won't run with a low or weak Batt. Your's is what, 2 years old and had run about flat.

Any shop can put a tester on it if you can't and tell the batt. state.

Frankly, I'd just put in a new one and get a good tender. The Batt. will stay up and last a lot longer.

IF your factory warranty is still in effect it's good anywhere.

This really sounds like a battery issue. The engine light won't go out if there is still a electrical issue.

Just my $.02,

Don
 
#22 ·
Thanks Dolson,

I have bought a batt tender and have kept it topped off. The batt shows 12-14 volts and has bright lights when the key is on. I have not checked the Amp load, but when it is charged, I can get a good 30-40 seconds of cranking juice before the battery goes flat. This bike has never taken more than 2-3 sec. of crank before it would fire, so I do not know if a 30-40 sec. of cranking would drain a battery completely.
Does this sound like a battery problem?

In regards to the warranty, I had an extended service warranty through the dealer. It covered all scheduled servicing (Service & parts; including oil servicing) for 3 years. This was my last year, but I moved away from that dealer.
I'll check to see if the Batt. would still be covered under Triumph's warranty.
 
#23 ·
Thanks Dolson,

I have bought a batt tender and have kept it topped off. The batt shows 12-14 volts and has bright lights when the key is on. I have not checked the Amp load, but when it is charged, I can get a good 30-40 seconds of cranking juice before the battery goes flat. This bike has never taken more than 2-3 sec. of crank before it would fire, so I do not know if a 30-40 sec. of cranking would drain a battery completely.
Does this sound like a battery problem?

In regards to the warranty, I had an extended service warranty through the dealer. It covered all scheduled servicing (Service & parts; including oil servicing) for 3 years. This was my last year, but I moved away from that dealer.
I'll check to see if the Batt. would still be covered under Triumph's warranty.
 
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