Should I get a new battery.

[thinkjerm]

Since the beginning of the winter I have been having problems with my bike starting due to the battery. I bought the a leftover '06 in may of '07. About three weeks ago i started using a tender to keep the battery charged because i was tired of riding the bike and having the battery dead 3 days later. Needless to say on Mon I tried going for a ride only to get stuck. I had the battery on the tender for at least 15 hours prior to riding and the tender said I had a full charge. 30 miles after I started riding the bike died at a stop light, the battery so dead that I couldn't even jump start the bike and only one headlight worked. I brought the bike to a dealer and they said there is absolutely nothing wrong with the charging system or the battery. They are totally baffled as to why the battery died. The charging system was putting out about 14 volts at idle and about 13.5 at 3000 rpm's. I don't want to risk getting stranded again but they are telling me the battery is fine. I would rather spend the $100 to get a new battery for the piece of mind if that will fix the problem.

What is your take on the problem.

Thanks.

[pushr0d]

I'd take the battery to a battery shop, and have them test it.

If it's ok, you're golden.

But I'll guess that the battery has a bad cell; and you can then buy a new one and leave the core.

I'm using a battery I bought off batteryweb.com. It's lasted several years.

You need to keep the Tender on the job. Once a cell discharges to where it has sulfated, it's pretty much toast.

[thinkjerm]

the dealer already tested the battery. They said it is good order. I just don't know if i can trust it anymore. I don't want to get stuck on the side of the road again.

[oldndumb]

I hope you are not hoping for a hands off answer.

If it were me I would check and verify all battery connections, including the battery negative to engine case ground. Then I would do the following checks. They are what I have always done regardless of bike marque. I am not saying the dealer did anything wrong. I am suggesting that you can verify the conditions for your self. Start the tests with a battery charged to 12.7vdc minimum. Disapate any surface charge by turning the ignition on for about 6 or 7 minutes, then do the tests. Let us know what you come up with.


Do a charging voltage test.
Note: The battery must be fuly charged for this test to be valid.
1. Have bike at normal running temperature.
2. With ignition off, connect a VOM to the battery.
3. Start the bike.
4. Run the revs up to about 3K and check the voltage reading. It should be around 13.5 to 15vdc. It should not go below 13.5vdc. If it does, the alternator is suspect.
5. If the voltage is over 15vdc, the regulator/rectifier is probably bad.

Do a "Drop" test. (shadetree load test)
Note: The battery must be fully charged for this test to be valid
1. With ignition off, connect a VOM to the battery
2. Switch on ignition with lights on and operate the starter.
3. The battery vdc reading will typically drop but it should not go below 9.5vdc.
4. It it goes below 9.5vdc, the battery is probably bad.

PS.....your search button must be inop because you have been on the forum for a while now.

[monkinwitz]

I have had a problem with hot starts on my bike after it has reached op temp and run for about half an hour the mother takes two to four goes to start and the battery sound suspect,but then check the battery all good ,check relays under fairing as the rubber holder is crap and they could be loose in there,and or got water into top of starter relay if its upside down,

[ricster]

OldNdumb is right on the VOM....that will help answer alot of questions...but ALWAYS check your battery connections...mine have in the past loosened up and does things as you describe...so check that first then do a VOM test

[sincity337]

Thinkjerm,

+ 1 on what OnD mentioned. Also, if the battery was the original that came with the bike, then there is no telling what originally happened to the battery, ie, one too many total discharges. FYI, I am an aircraft electrician in the USAF and part of our job involves running a battery shop, typically maintaining Ni-Cad, lead-acid, and now AGM-types of batteries. As far as the lead-acid batteries go, if you deep-discharge the battery even ONCE, it will never reach its full capacity ever again. It usually will only recover to about 80% if everything goes well. I would also do a static load test using a VOM that incorporates a ammeter. You can see if there are any parasitic draws on the battery when the ignition is turned off. This can be done by connecting the meter leads in SERIES with the battery to see what kind of amperage draw there is (again, with ignition OFF).
I'd go for a new battery if all the tests mentioned from other posters went well. I too bought a leftover '06, but I had to wait an extra couple of days for them to install a brand new battery before I took delivery.
Hope this helps.

[Calliway]

I wish I could let you guys in to the online learning center I developed for a major repair shop here in Western Canada.... I built 6 online courses on basic electrical systems, batteries, alternators and starters. and testing all of these systems.

It would give you step by step instructions, knowledge and lessons on thsi stuff.

FYI
+1 OnD

[MrMoped]

thinkjerm,

Have you checked the level of the fluid in the battery? Even the supposed maintenance free batteries will lose fluid during the normal charge/discharge cycle.

I check mine once a year (because they really don't lose a great deal) and just add a little bit as required. The battery I have is the original one from 2000. It is a '00 Sprint RS.

[oldndumb]

Originally Posted by MrMoped

thinkjerm,

Have you checked the level of the fluid in the battery? Even the supposed maintenance free batteries will lose fluid during the normal charge/discharge cycle.

I check mine once a year (because they really don't lose a great deal) and just add a little bit as required. The battery I have is the original one from 2000. It is a '00 Sprint RS.

If his battery is the correct type for an 06 it will be an AGM with factory sealed caps. The manufacturers of factory sealed AGM batteries advise against unsealing the caps. This is especially important in an 05+ Sprint due to the battery orientation.

Fluid level can and should be checked in batteries that are customer serviced.