ABS Fault Mystery

[Flylow]

I have an ABS gremlin that I am hoping someone has experience with. I have an 06 Sprint that has an ABS light that stays on. It began after I installed a TomTom GPS. I did not disconnect the battery because I hate the ^&)* seat bolts but the key was out of the ignition the whole time it was disassembled. I took the whole front of the bike off, including the instrument panel, and replaced my headlamps with silverstars and the main beam with a PIAA bulb. I located and cut the stock connector off of the factory pre-wired GPS power plug and just used some butt connecters to hook into those, and secured all the excess wire. So after I reassemble the entire front of the bike and ride it, the abs light does not extinguish. I took it to the dealer to have the fault code read and reset figuring the it was just a stored code or something. They have had the bike for a month and torn it apart trying to figure it out. I have had this happen in the past (and posted here about it) and the fault turned out to be a faulty sensor in the front. The service manager said that the front sensor is the only problem they have ever had with Triumph ABS systems so they replaced that but it did not correct the problem. They have been in contact with Triumph who says I must have spliced into an ABS wire, which is BS. When I remove the fuse for the GPS it stops working so I know I am in the right wires. It is wired to the correct power source and I never tapped into any other wires. In frustration (and I am sure out of irritation with my near daily calls) the dealer has pulled off several components and swapped out with a used bike in their inventory to try and identify the faulty component, but they can not figure it out. The ABS works on the rear (and presumably on the front; I am too chicken to get going and try to lock the front wheel) even though the fault light is on. Any ideas? Everyone is baffled, and I use my bike as my main source of transportation because I have a 40 mile commute to work each way. I have spent $450 more on fuel this month because my bike is in the shop, and the weather is getting better, so I would really like to get this figured out.

[F4sSprintST]

There isn't a "factory pre-wired GPC power plug", there is a Powerlet outlet. I assume you are talking about that.

When you cut that, if you just snipped it you could have shorted the wiring, but that should have just blown the fuse.

you could unhook the GPS wiring and see what happens.

You could also try leaving the battery unhooked overnight to clear the computer

Hey, how did the headlight bulbs work out?

[Flylow]

Originally Posted by F4sSprintST

There isn't a "factory pre-wired GPC power plug", there is a Powerlet outlet. I assume you are talking about that.

When you cut that, if you just snipped it you could have shorted the wiring, but that should have just blown the fuse.

you could unhook the GPS wiring and see what happens.

You could also try leaving the battery unhooked overnight to clear the computer

Hey, how did the headlight bulbs work out?

You are correct I just snipped off the powerlet connector becuase I didnt know where to find one and that seemed pretty simple. When the GPS unit is off the bike there is no draw, and I think pulling the fuse would have the same effect as unhooking the wiring. Good thought on the battery...I didnt know that would clear it out. That is way cheaper than going to the dealer (60 miles from me). The low beams are a little better as is the high. I think the PIAA light is brighter than the silverstars, but I am not sure. It is not a huge difference, but it is noticably (sp?) better. That PIAA bulb was expensive! As others have said I think the main problem is with the reflector design and I hear that has been addressed on the 08. Maybe I should just buy an 08!

[oldndumb]

Man, I am confused! Your original post said you cut the connector off the GPs power plug. Then, in a later post you say you talk about the Powerlet connector. Which is it? Are you taking power from the accessory outlet harness (Powerlet) or from the GPS harness?

Since you say pulling the GPS fuse kills the power to your GPS, you must be connected to the GPS harness. So, how does the Powerlet harness come into play?

Does a TomTom have an internal battery and does it have an auto power off function? The reason I ask, is because there is a much easier method of installing a GPS than what you did.

[KevyKev]

I can't believe the dealer can't find a problem. Maybe it is the ABS modulator/pump/computer?? I would think a code would tell them the info they need. HOWEVER, remember that our ABS does not activate/work until you get over 6 mph initially and at that point the ABS light goes out (off). Thus, maybe there really isn't a code but rather just the light remaining ON thinking the bike is less than 6 mph. SO, maybe there is some sort of fault with the ABS acknowleding that the bike is over 6 mph?? I'm assuming your speedo is working correctly, so maybe it's something to do with the ABS computer recognizing (or actually NOT recognizing) the speed? Just a bunch of random thoughts.........

Kev

[oldndumb]

KevyKev brings up some good logic, especially about the speedo not working. I always use my GPS as a speedometer and once rode for a couple weeks without noticing that the speedo was inop due to a failed Road Speed Sensor. If I had ABS on my bike, I would have had an ABS light in that situation.

Have you had any other problems with your bike that might possibly have a bearing on this condition?

If you report the problem, and take the bike to a dealer, Triumph has the responsibility to repair it. Make them do it!

Whatever your reason for riding the bike in this condition, you effectively are riding a bike without ABS, since the ABS Warning Light circuit is malfunctioning, and you need to treat it as such.

[jeffro]

do what I do with my 95 Nissan Pick Up. Put a piece of electrical tape over the light. LOL Sorry had too. Out of site out of mind.

[CLB]

Ok, first things first. I hope you appreciate me tearing this out of the bike just to answer your question.

You mentioned pulling the front end off the bike. Exactly what did you remove? I can't imagine anyone in their right mind pulling the harness.
That said, the harness is laid out here generally as it is on the bike.

The top most connectors go to the instrument cluster and signals. You didn't say your gauges weren't working so this is probably ok.

Inside the main loop below the instrument branch you will see the connections for the horn and front wheel rotation sensors. These are routed left and forward directly over the valve cover. They exit around the air intake and mate with connectors held captive to the underside of the lower triple clamp. Four wires come out of this harness branch. Two go to your horn which is working, no? The other two go to your front wheel rotation sensor. I would look for damaged connectors or yanked wiring at that point.

And for what it's worth, the factory GPS connector that doesn't exist can be seen just to the right of the instrument cluster branch, blue taped to the main harness.

[Flylow]

Wow guys, thanks for all the good info, and pics.
Oldndumb (OND) I cut off the connector CLB noted as the one with the blue tape on the main harness right hand side under the fairing and just tapped into the wires instead of using the connector, no other splicing or dicing. I took off the front fairing, instruments, turn signals, and headlamp assy. Everything worked as normal, but the ABS light stayed on.
The dealer (who has been really good about all of this) called to tell me they figured it out. They confirmed that the ABS was operating correctly. They switched out the instruments (because the was all that was left) and every works as normal, so there is a problem with the instrument pack. You would think there would be a better way to diagnose malfunctions than just swapping parts, but I am not an expert in motorcycle electronics. The instrument pack only costs $1300 to replace (is this a BMW?) so they are going to try and get Triumph to pick it up under warranty, but the dealer is concerned that because I used a non Triumph accesory they will not pay.
OND My TomTom does have an internal battery, but it only lasts about 4 hours so I decided to just wire it up to the bike seeing as how there was already a factory wired fused source (First mistake) and I had to tear off the whole headlight assembly to replace the wimpy high beam. I am certainly interested in your alternate method since the RAM mount puts the unit very high, though its not too bad.
With the main beam access problems and seat bolts you have to wonder if the folks that design this stuff even ride, let alone work on a bike. It is so rediculous that they want you to disconnect the battery for everything, even mounting the panniers, and it is such a PIA to get those bolts back in that I just gave up on that.
Anyway, can anyone think of anything I did/described causing this problem? Is it possible that not disconnecting the battery prior to working on the bike caused this? I would like to go to Triumph with as much knowledge as I can about this, or at least know what not to say.
Thanks for all the good input, and fantastic pic of the wiring.

[CLB]

I am currently selling an instrument cluster for an '06 Sprint ST ABS on eBay. Seller name cbernards. Non-DOA guaranteed. I started the auction at $1, no reserve and will honor any winning bid. Save some cash if that's what you need.
I realize this post could be classified as questionable so the mods can delete it if they see fit. Hope it helps flylow.

And...
All of that said I really don't see how what Flylow did could blow the instrument cluster. Not that I don't want to sell this thing but...
And (2) I drive an M3. Triumph parts cost more.