Forget the beam type torque wrench and get a "click type" wrench(s).
The beam type is the simplest and the cheapest but it has limitations. It reads the actual torque being applied but has no provision to prevent over-torquing, and that is why you use a torque wrench. Most fastener/component failures are cause by over-torquing, not under-torquing. The other problem with the beam type is that you must be positioned directly over the scale and pointer to get an accurate reading. It is very doubtful that you will find a serious technican using one on expensive/sensitive equipment.
The "click" type is actually a breakaway wrench and is preferred because the internal mechanism breaks away (becomes disjointed) at the set torque value. When you set the vernier cuff to a torque setting it compresses a calibrated spring which lets the handle either stay locked or "break" at the pre set torque. This action prevents over-torquing.
The key to using a "click" type wrench is proper use and storage.
Always exercise the internal mechanism before use and before storage. You can do this by using the wrench on a bolt securely held in a vise. Do it for the bottom, mid, and highest setting. That ensures that the spring mechanism is properly lubricated. Using the wrench properly means that you must apply smooth and steady pressure on the handle portion of the wrench. Do not jerk it or you will over-torque the fastener.
Proper storage of a torque wrench means setting the vernier cuff to the lowest setting after exercising it, and then storing the wrench in the box/container it came in.
My experience has been that they rarely go out of calibration with proper use and storage.
My suggestion is to study the torque values for your particular bike and then buy the wrench(es) from the store of you choice. You will probably need to buy at least two of them to cover all of the required torques. One item to consider is that most wrenches are not accurate in within the bottom and top 10 percent of their range.
A lot of people laugh at Harbor Freight tools. Some of their stuff is junk while other items will suffice for the hobbyist or do it yourselfer. I have bought Harbor Freight torque wrenches and checked them on a torque analyzer and they were within specification.
If you do have a torque wrench that requires calibration, look in the yellow pages for a lab in your area. The fee is not very high. Just don't take it to Sears for calibration.
Once you get a new torque wrench, resist the urge to check the torque on a couple of fasteners. All you are doing, when you do that, is over-torquing those particuar fasteners. The correct method to verify torque on a previously torqued fastener is to loosen it (not with the torque wrench
) and re-torque it.
Linear Mode
