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Charging issues. Advice??

2K views 19 replies 5 participants last post by  Supa-nova 
#1 ·
So I'll get straight to it.

In previous post had regulator issues and bike not charging

AA confirmed the reg las bad.

So upgraded to mosfet fh012aa
It had brand new battery fitted April 2016 at time of MOT.

Today replaced the stator with a brand new unit. That got tested before shipping out to me.


This is my problem. Happened on both occasions when reg fitted and today when stator fitted.

Start bike shows voltage 13.3 v on small acceleration increases to 13.5 ish but a blip on throttle and back to nothing. Drops to below 12v and counts down due to bike running draining battery and no charge.

All 3 parts have been changed and the bugger will still not charge. Driving me insane and not sure where else to look.

Any advice ??
 
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#3 ·
I have the fh012a R/R.
All connections are fine and brand new. No loose wires etc.
The R/R is putting out same values on multimeter on all 3 phases.

The old stator shown signs of burnt coils and wasn't getting a good reading so replaced that with a brand new unit.

All fuses in the glove box are fine , non have blown or look dodgy. Battery connections all fine and tight.

30a fuse in the in line connector supplied with kit ok.

There's another 30a fuse next to the battery which I think is the "MAIN FUSE" appears to be ok.

Bike will start and run/idle but just not charge.

R/R is warm.

The instuctions supplied with the Mosfet R/R said something about some bikes may need the old 30a fuse removing but can't find the damn instuctions to check what it said again.

Only had the bike a few weeks and not even been able to ride it yet.
 
#4 ·
What are the readings you are getting from the stator? If i remember correctly it should go up to around 80v ac if you blip the throttle. Have you measured the output at the RR? Should be around 13.8 - 14.4 v dc. If not It suggest a faulty RR . If its ok up to here , it is pointing to a wiring fault between here and battery.

Im not familiar with the particular RR you are using however I can tell you the RR that was originally sent to me by the dealer was the wrong one (i didnt know this at the time and assumed he knew what he was talking about) and it promptly packed up. He sent me another RR (we assumed it was a faulty one first time) and this packed in within a short time as well, again the wrong RR! I finally bought a second hand RR (off a yamaha R1 i think) and that has been on ever since with no problems at all. If your stator reading are ok along with the wiring and battery, you may have to bite the bullet and try another RR.
Where did you get your RR?
 
#5 ·
Do not measure the output at the R/R, measure at the battery. Readings without the battery hooked up will be meaningless at best.

Is the R/R connected to the harness, or direct to battery? Either way, take a multimeter to the 30A fuses and be sure they're not blown.

If the R/R is warm, it's not overheated. FH012s have overheat and overvoltage protection, but I would be extremely surprised if yours was getting too much voltage.

That pretty much leaves a bad stator, maybe one that checks out ok when cold but shorts when it heats up? Have you verified that it checks out good? No short to ground from any of the stator wires? AC voltage present between stator phases, going up with revs? (Disconnect from R/R and measure across each pair coming from the stator, eg. 1-2, 1-3, 2-3.)

Where did you get the stator from?

Cheers,
-Kit
 
#7 ·
Do not measure the output at the R/R, measure at the battery. Readings without the battery hooked up will be meaningless at best.

Is the R/R connected to the harness, or direct to battery? Either way, take a multimeter to the 30A fuses and be sure they're not blown.

If the R/R is warm, it's not overheated. FH012s have overheat and overvoltage protection, but I would be extremely surprised if yours was getting too much voltage.

That pretty much leaves a bad stator, maybe one that checks out ok when cold but shorts when it heats up? Have you verified that it checks out good? No short to ground from any of the stator wires? AC voltage present between stator phases, going up with revs? (Disconnect from R/R and measure across each pair coming from the stator, eg. 1-2, 1-3, 2-3.)

Where did you get the stator from?

Cheers,
-Kit
RE measuring the RR, you're right with regards to measuring the RR with the battery connected, however measuring the voltage at the RR then at the battery would show up any volt drop in the harness.

Note to the OP I see you bought your parts from RMstator which is a bad sign as far as im concerned as he is the guy who sold me two incorrect RR for mine. I would suggest you treat anything bought from him as suspect.
 
#6 ·
Stator was brought from moto electrical. The stator is manufactured by RMSTATOR.

R/R connected directly to battery via in line 30a fuse supplied with the kit.
The R/R was brought from a motorbike dealer called Nightingales. There is a auto electrician that works there and replaces the damaged R/R who owns sells kits for various bikes.

Will double check all readings later today when home from work and post results.

There shouldn't be anything else responsible in the charging system other than the stator , R/R , battery and wiring to each component?
 
#8 ·
Daytripper666 said:
RE measuring the RR, you're right with regards to measuring the RR with the battery connected, however measuring the voltage at the RR then at the battery would show up any volt drop in the harness.
Ah, I see what you're saying. That makes sense, though I've never seen a significant voltage drop in a direct to battery setup.

Cheers,
-Kit
 
#9 ·
im asuming that the OP has checked the connector block under the tank that connects the RR to the harness, as that's a known weakness & a reason why the EB kit by passes it and connects the live feed direct to the battery
 
#12 ·
OK so this is what I've found.

Checked connections and wires for continuity. Positive from battery to R/R good
Negative to R/R good.
Checked both 30A fuse. Both good and checked.

R/R has 0.503 0.501 0.500 on threes phases
And 0 0 0 on opposite lead.
Seems OK based on reading .


Stator ohms test 0.9ohm on all 3 phases.

Ohms to ground 0 on all three. So it's not shorting.

AC volts test 20.3 v on all three phase wires at idle.
Rising to 45 - 50 volts when Rev upto 3000k rpm.

The battery is 12.4v in off position
12v when on but not running. And slowly discharging with the HID lights on

When idling 13.4 - 13.6v and according to the sticky that's bout right for these bikes. With factory R/R.

When every thing is connected up it charging but after very short time it does stop charging altogether and battery continues to discharge it self.

The R/R is getting hot. I suspect a bad R/R despite the reading from test I also do belive my brand new R/R might be a cheap chinese version. After speaking with the chap who sold me the part he tells me he had a faulty unit out of 100 ordered but has had a new batch come in to the UK today and going to send newer version out to me.

The fact the stator is putting AC current out to the R/R and the battery when it will charge is only at 13.5dcv I would suspect a duff R/R

Would you agree with my conclusion?
 
#13 ·
I'd agree, duff RR. The RR shouldnt be getting hot, only warm. However I would suggest a minimum of 13.8v maxing at 14.4v.
If the RR is being replaced for free then give it a shot, otherwise try one of the ones I said or alternatively a 2nd hand one. I think i paid sixty quid for a 2nd hand one of ebay and no problems since.
 
#14 ·
Yeah will try my free replacement first.

Wasn't sure if to buy a used yamaha fh012aa unit. Who knows what state their in when you buy them and used parts not having guarantee if they brake.

Thanks for replies so far everything text book points to duff Regulator.
 
#15 ·
Ohms to ground 0 on all three. So it's not shorting.
0 ohms to ground is pretty much the definition of a short. You should see infinite resistance there.

Cheers,
-Kit
 
#16 · (Edited)
Unless I tested it wrong. Or used incorrect term. My multimeter is a digital one but tell you the truth unless it's says on the display open or closed I wouldn't know anyway ? but main thing is it sending AC current at correct values so can confirm not a short.

What I did if I remember is put positive lead to the 3 phases and negative lead to battery , and got nothing but meter never bleeped to say it was grounding. I didn't make that very clear. My bad .
 
#17 ·
How hot was the stator when you tested voltage? How hot when you checked resistance to ground? It still sounds to me like the stator is shorting when it warms up.

Cheers,
-Kit
 
#19 ·
As said I do think I may have had it on wrong setting. But when testing stator on the bench before fitting it was Not grounding. And once fitted it wasn't grounding either. But considering the stator is putting out current across the 3 phases so seems to be working as it should. All I can do is try another R/R see what happens.

In the mean time think I'm going to send my old stator off the west windings for rebuild and keep it as a spare .
 
#20 ·
The Sprint is finally alive. Replacement R/R a genuine fh012aa not a cheap chinese one. Fitted and now bike charging at steady 14.3v

So to sum up even if R/R seems to be putting out correct values might still be defective.

Thanks for the trouble shooting help n advice. Can now go out and enjoy my bike for the first time
 
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