Just bought an '07 that needs brake pads and an oil change, $tealer nearby wanted almost $450 (parts included). Haven't wrenched a Trumpet yet, and don't have the manual, how accessible is the oil plug/filter, and what do you lazy people pay others for these simple tasks?
this is for 955 and 1050 engines as per the 2011 Sprint GT manual p74:
"Oil Specification and Grade
Triumph high performance fuel injected engines are designed to use 10 W/40 or 15 W/50 semi or fully synthetic motorcycle engine oil that meets specification API SH (or higher) and JSO MA."
As the op was asking about brakes, that raised a question that I have as well. I read on this forum where many seem to use and like the EBC organic pads. Can you tell me what model name/number EBC's are needed for the front and rear on a 2001 Sprint ST (vin: 130xxx)?
If I'm reading the EBC ecatalog correctly, it seems to say: Front: FA236 Rear: FA214/2 but I wasn't sure if I was looking at the right category. When looking at online retailers some of the models have HH at the end and I remember some members here posting that they use HH so I'm not entirely sure what I'm looking for now... Any help is appreciated.
Thanks guys, I read the thread on the prohibition of sharing manuals, and I didn't get one with the purchase, so I'm working from scratch. I use Rotella synthetic for my other bikes (cheap at Walmart), so I'll do that with the Sprint I think. I too was researching the EBC pads, and I came up with FA214/2HH for the fronts. Others I race with prefer these pads, so I will probably give them a shot. Is the rear caliper different-sized than front? Also, is the filter under the belly pan, requiring removal of the fairings? I know, RTFM, but I have to get one first. . .
I can't imagine going back to organic pads after running HH, but to each his own. I usually run EBC HHs, but there's nothing wrong with Ferodo or Dunlop or Galfer or other top brands. I would not buy an unknown brand, nor would I buy Goldfren pads.
Stock brakes on the SSSA Sprints are EBC FA236 front and FA214/2 rear. The "/2" means one pad is thicker than the other for single action calipers; you can use FA214 pads in a pinch, but one pad will wear out much quicker. I believe the DSSA RSs used FA215/2 rears, but I'm not 100% sure there. The Tokico six piston calipers a lot of people use take FA188 pads.
OK, so I'll need two sets of FA236HH and one 214 for the rear, found them reasonably cheap on Amazon. Weird that the Triumph website allows free download of the current model manuals, but not earlier models.
Pay people to change oil/filter/brake pads? Long time since I did that. I have had issues on some of the rare occasions that I had someone else change my oil, such as leaks, never had leaks when I did it myself.
Oil and filter are very simple and readily accessible, just remember to warm up the engine before changing oil, like the various manuals say, to make the oil thin to drain properly. Wear mechanics gloves unles you like really warm fingers. El Cheapo Harbor Freight oil filter wrench set works just fine for consumer use. I also bought a bag of generic crush washers from Ebay to eliminate the temptation to reuse them. Local Cycle Gear shop also has them for not much more.
I like the EBC HH pads, seem to bite a little faster than GGs I have used and need nearly no warm up to work well. Not sure which sort of compound the bike came with, but the HHs seem better. I will accept faster rotor wear for better braking any day. Remember to clean the calipers when the old pads are out and the caliper is off the bike. A little preventative maintenance can prevent problems, such as brake pads dragging.
Sounds good, I'll pick up some crush washers and brake cleaner when I'm next a Cycle gear, they seem to have reasonable prices and were good sponsors when I raced. . . .
BTW, if you don't like Walmart, a lot of Home Depots are selling automotive stuff now, including Rotella at prices very close to Walmart's.
I mix the synthetic 5W-40 with the dinosaur 15W-40 to get 10W-40 semi-syn. I went to the 5W-40 alone last year, but I didn't like it so I went back to the mix. (It would be easier to just use the T5 10W-40 semi-syn, but for some reason the dino stuff and the full syn stuff are JASO-MA approved and the T5 is not.)
Cheers,
-Kit
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