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Old 11-28-2004   #1 (permalink)
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I'm coming up on the 12K service interval on my ST and had originally thought I would take it to a dealer when he was less than a mile from my house and had an excellent mechanic. Now the dealer is over 50 miles away
and of unknown quality.

The only parts of the service that I have concern over are the valve clearance and throttle body sync. The valves because I'm not comfortable with pulling cams just to change shims and balancing because the manual
wants you to buy some $700-$900 digital gismo. What has been your experience with valves needing a shim change at 12K? What did you use to balance the throttle bodies? Mercury tubes, carb tune, ???? Anyone ever use a TwinMax?
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Old 11-28-2004   #2 (permalink)
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Rodney,

You are correct in the assumption that the Twin Max or a set of manometers (mercury tube) to synch the throttle bodies will work. The OEM didgital is simply faster and a wee bit more accurate, but not necessarily better. That's the ez part.

Remember you have to remove the fuel tank which contains the needed fuel pump and pressure regulator because all the adjustments are made while running.

The real difficulty lies in managing a way to connect or jumper the pressure and return fuel lines and the electrical connetors for the fuel pump. Figure that one and your home free. (No pun intended)

Like you, the only really good dealership is a fair distance away, over 100 miles one way. But, they are a VERY good service shop, so the trip and the cost is worth it in my opinion.

FWIW, there was 1 exhaust valve that was out of spec, tight by .001. That does'nt sound like much, but valve clearances normally tighten up in time so down the road that could become a problem.

But the good news is the bike runs so much better and I did'nt think it could be better than it was.

The valve adjust is pretty straight forward if you follow the manual and you're familiar with overhead cams and shims. Normally you can rearrange the existing shims and obtain the desired clearances, but if not then you have to acquire the needed shim(s) If your local dealer (like mine) does'nt have much stock to choose from then you're stuck with a special order and a long wait.

I've read the shims are common to another make/brand M/C, but I don't recall which. It would be nice to know though.

Good luck, hope this helps....

Dan'l
So. Calif.
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Old 11-28-2004   #3 (permalink)
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The shims are 25mm, which is common to quite a few Japanese bikes. I swapped my shims straight across at an independent shop I do business with.
You don't have to pull the cams to swap shims if you buy the Triumph tool or make the tool on this website. Look under downloads and search for tool.
All of my valves were within specs at 10 thousand miles. 3 were tight at 20 thousand.
I haven't synchronized my throttle bodies because of the problem with fuel described above.
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Old 11-28-2004   #4 (permalink)
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On the 2002 and up models you must remove the cams. The valves are shim UNDER bucket as opposed to shims over bucket. My service manual shows the extension cables that are used at the dealership. I wonder if those can be purchased by special order or are they reserved just for a dealer? They can't be hard to make anyway. I'm due REAL soon for the same service and I will surly find out.
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