Triumphrat

SamaR · 07-30-2007, 01:21 PM

So, I am getting ready to do my first oil change on an 05 Sprint st.

I had done it before on my jap bikes, so I am wondering if the drain plug crushable washer is of the same type on Sprint? Is it 14mm?, 17mm?

Green01SprintST · 07-30-2007, 01:56 PM

If you are a tight ass like me you can just clean everything up and re-use the old one. Replacing a copper washer after every oil change is just a waste of money in my opinion. BTW, no leaks in 31K miles.

ricster · 07-30-2007, 02:29 PM

I just change that washer at every other oil change. Just flip it over when you use it for the second time...no leaks when doing this.

Stlakid · 07-30-2007, 02:29 PM

Another tip........throw away the manual that gives you a torque setting to tighten the drain plug to! It will leave you with a washer that resembles a piece of tracing paper and you will also be stressing the threads in the pan un-necessarily.

Unless you have the senses of a gorilla you 'should' be able to feel the washer 'crush' at some point when you tighten the sump plug. When you can feel this happening, 'STOP TIGHTENING' the plug. This is as tight as you need it. More will only do possible damage and insure at the least a trip to the dealer for a new washer at every oil change. I have 28,000 miles on my bike and I'm on my second washer! I change my oil at 4k, and prior to 20k I changed it every 3k.

BTW you can get the washers at any Honda dealer too, car or bike. The car dealer just gave them to me for free. This is exactly how Honda recommends you to tighten their sump plugs as well, there is no torque setting designed to crush the life out of the washer simply so they can sell you another one at your next oil change. I would stick with the aluminum washer unless you are stuck for a couple of reasons.

Copper expands and contracts at different rates than aluminum. This 'might' lead to it getting loose over time. It's a slim chance but it could happen.
The aluminum washer is a dead soft aluminum and the copper might be a bit harder and take more torque to 'crush'. I don't see this as a big deal seeing how the book wants you to tighten things up though.
Bottom line is I would try to stick with the aluminum washer, but if all you can get is a copper one, don't worry about it as they are designed for the same purpose.

SamaR · 07-30-2007, 03:11 PM

thanks, for your advice, but what size are those?

CLB · 07-30-2007, 04:14 PM

The washer is 14mm ID.

SamaR · 07-30-2007, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CLB

The washer is 14mm ID.

thanks a lot

Pcdabbler · 07-30-2007, 06:33 PM

Use a torque wrench ! some people may be able to, "feel", when the washer gives. Most can't. Undertighten and it may work loose. Overtighten and strip the thread. Your call.

Stlakid · 07-31-2007, 12:47 AM

Like I said 'Unless you have the senses of a gorilla' You will be fine. The factory torque setting is 18 foot pounds. The used washer I have crushed at about 15 foot pounds. (I just went out and tried it!) I've been doing oil changes in my bikes since I was 14 and NEVER have I needed a dam torque wrench! I've never had one leak let alone have it fall out! You will find that AFTER you destroy the threads in your pan, THATS when you stare having problems with leaking and worse.

TheNomad · 07-31-2007, 02:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stlakid

Like I said 'Unless you have the senses of a gorilla' You will be fine. The factory torque setting is 18 foot pounds. The used washer I have crushed at about 15 foot pounds. (I just went out and tried it!) I've been doing oil changes in my bikes since I was 14 and NEVER have I needed a dam torque wrench! I've never had one leak let alone have it fall out! You will find that AFTER you destroy the threads in your pan, THATS when you stare having problems with leaking and worse.

Agree. Never had a problem in 30+ years using the manual "Common Sense" torque wrench.

MD