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Old 11-13-2004   #1 (permalink)
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I will make my story as short as I can in hopes that others have had this problem.

She is an '01 Sprint RS. I first notice the problem 2 months ago when my little brother was using it and shut it down with the kill switch. I turned the key on and noticed that the temp gauge was dashes instead of the word "low" so I tried to turn iot over and it crank and crank till it fired (was thinking lack of fuel in the lines). If I didn't use the kill switch it would fire right up.

3 weeks later I am riding to a buddies I get off of the freeway and the engine dies, the panel lights up and I notice the dashes again. I thought I accidentally hit the kill switch, so I coasted over and turned everything off, turned her over and she fired after 5 or 6 cranks.

Last night I am riding 50 miles up to a buddies take the exit and she dies on the off ramp. I turn everything off and try to fire her back up, but no luck. If it helps any I did notice last night that when I shifted it didn't shift as sporty as normal, it was too smooth, like maybe gas was already in the line. I am thinking fuel system but don't know where to start or for that matter where to get a manual for the '01 RS.

PLEASE HELP?

Thank you in advance!!
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Old 11-13-2004   #2 (permalink)
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There's a thread about the impacts of using the kill switch to stop the engine:

http://www.triumphrat.net/modules.ph...12195&forum=20

But I don't reckon using the switch once or twice will cause the problems you describe.

Could it be as simple as muck in the fuel tank?
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Old 11-13-2004   #3 (permalink)
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There are several forms of dying. Does it gradually loose power? Does it slobber all over itself. Does it just plain dye like throwing a light switch.

A gradual power reduction of power could be a leaning due to some crud in the tank the chokes the filter and goes back into suspension when idle. Could also be a battery going down.

Slobbering will be too much fuel like a stuck injector, but I wouldn't think that would be the case.

Slamming, it sounds like electrical. ECU or a short somewhere. Being that it sounds like it is an intermittent thing I'd look for the short, but it wouldn't hurt to get it to a shop and look for faults in the ECU.

I'd start at the kill switch and the side stand switch. The relay too as they both go through the same and do the same thing.

Corosion can close the circuit and since they short the system to kill it that would be my suspects.

Don
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Old 11-13-2004   #4 (permalink)
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Starting with the simple things first, I'd look at the battery posts. Are the connections tight? Try moving them and see if the power comes and goes. Look for any corrosion there also.
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Old 11-14-2004   #5 (permalink)
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Hey SprintRS,
You need a manual. Check out .. Triumph factory manuals @ Hermy's
$80.00 for the factory manual fast delivery.
There is a link on the banner here on TriumphRat.net at the top of the page many times for Clymer and Hanes manuals, I prefer the factory manual but some also like one of the others in addition.
Good luck.
John
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Old 11-14-2004   #6 (permalink)
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Hey SprintRS,
You need a manual. Check out .. Triumph factory manuals @ Hermy's
$80.00 for the factory manual fast delivery.
There is a link on the banner here on TriumphRat.net at the top of the page many times for Clymer and Hanes manuals, I prefer the factory manual but some also like one of the others in addition.
Good luck.
John
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Old 11-14-2004   #7 (permalink)
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***** that back button.
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Old 11-14-2004   #8 (permalink)
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It also might be an ignition switch failure see my posting dated 15/06/04 on page 20.

This started as an intermittent complete cut out but would fire up when stationary. i.e. handle bars in line.

Its worth a check.

Cheers

Peter W.
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Old 11-15-2004   #9 (permalink)
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The big areas where corrosion can be a nusence are, like Jeff said the battery connections, clean and tight. On the pre 2002 vintage the top alternator mount bolt which is the main ground.

But with a short disabling the bikes enging, which this sounds like, the as previously mentioned switches and relays merit a going over.

Do you still get lights and other things?

Don
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Old 11-15-2004   #10 (permalink)
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We have had similar thread in the Tiger forum. I guess they have the same injection system but different settings.thread

quote from thread

Posted: 2004-09-05 18:40
I also had occasional stalling problems with my '05 Tiger. My Dealerships top mechanic blipped the throttle a few times and listened to the engine's response. He declared the fix to be simple and advised the following:-

From stone cold, start the bike and every 30 seconds blip the throttle (if I remember correctly, it was up to about 5K RPM), continue every 30 seconds until the fan cuts in. Job done! I followed these instructions, and it has not stalled since (4 weeks, 3000 miles).

Apparently, the reasoning is that the engine management was out of calibration with various air related setting. There is a period during warm up (between two engine temperatures that I do not remember) when 3 throttle blips at approx 30 second intervals make the system recalibrate. The routine above gives you a good chance of provoking the re-calibration. When the fan comes on, the engine is then too warm for it to happen.

This is also worth thinking about if you're in the habit of blipping unnecessarily... like you used to have to do with you FS1E 'cos it ran so rough. Modern engines don't need the same sort of coaxing - if you do tend to blip as the bike warms up, you could force a recalibration. If you do it on an extreme morning, the ambient conditions (air temperature, density, atmospheric pressure were all mentioned as factors to me) could upset things.

end quote

quote

Posted: 2004-08-03 23:32
My bike started fine this morning but after riding for about 5 minutes, it stalled at the first set of lights I came to and would not idle. It seemed to want to idle at about 200RPM, so that when I shut the throttle, it just stopped running (as opposed to stalled). It started and ran fine after this but the motor died if I shut the throttle. I rode straight to my mechanics place and had to wait about 10 minutes until he arrived.

I tried to show him, but the bike started and ran perfectly - of course. He knew exactly the problem. He said that the current 955 ECUs need a few seconds of power to get sorted out. I think they self check and also cycle the idle stepper motors. He said that I had probably turned on the ignition and started the bike immediately that morning. He said this confused the ECU and the bike runs fine but may stall and do other weird things. The answer is to turn off the ignition, turn it back on - wait at least 5 seconds, and restart.

He said that I should ALWAYS turn the ignition on and wait 5 seconds and I should hear a click from under the seat before hitting the starter button. I can't actually hear the click as I have a gel seat and a sheepskin.

THIS WAS TOTALLY NEWS TO ME!!!!!!

He also said that the bike should be stopped with the ignition key and not the kill switch.

There is a similar post of cold start problems that may be due to this as well that I have posted this information on.

end quote

Hope this give you some ideas to fix your problem.
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