Bleeding ABS brakes

[JTXR]

I have an '06 Sprint ST with ABS and was trying to find out if there is a special procedure to bleed ABS brake systems? In the directions that came with a bar riser kit that included a new front brake hose stated that there was a different procedure for bleeding ABS brakes but did not say what the procedure was.

Thanks for th help!

[oldndumb]

The only method to do it effectively that I am aware of is with the factory gameboy. Maybe someone else can educate us if there is a workaround.

[TheNomad]

If you remove the hose you will introduce air in the system from the "supply" side, and this does require the dealers
computer.

In the case of someone who wants to bleed the ABS brakes that has NOT introduced air in the system, this is my experience with ABS equipped CARS...

In a Corvette (2002) you can bleed the brakes to your hearts content if you don't introduce air in the system (I run a whole bottle or two through the system before running it at the road course every couple of months)

The only thing different than a non ABS car is that in order to get the very small amount of fluid that is inside the actual ABS actuating mechanism, you do need to go to the dealer and get them to put it on their Computer. They can then "cycle" the ABS pump, and bleed the brake lines AND that bit of fluid in the ABS mechanism.

Bottom line is: DON'T RUN THE RESERVOIR DRY !!!
if you do, you WILL need to go to the dealer, and the brakes will HAVE to be bled with the dealers computer.

Other than that, my experience with the car is that you get 99% of the benefit of bleeding, even if you skip the ABS pump bleed. I have never taken my car to the dealer.

Disclaimer: This is on my CAR. I would THINK it would be the same on the bike BUT I am just now beginning to learn about the ST.

MD

[ This message was edited by: TheNomad on 2007-06-18 12:48 ]

[CLB]

I would let the dealer do it.

You are talking about the upper line. Replacing the upper line then bleeding fluid out through the caliper will draw air past the ABS pump. This would yield the same results as letting the reservoir run dry.

The only way I would try this would be to bleed the new upper hose at the banjo bolt that attaches it to the hard line. Leave the lower part of the system alone.
Maybe finish up with a vacuum bleeder at the M/C.

The hard lines are above the ABS pump and that is why working on the caliper and lower hose will not introduce air in the ABS pump (so long as you don't run the res dry).

[TheNomad]

On 2007-06-18 12:47, CLB wrote:
I would let the dealer do it.

You are talking about the upper line. Replacing the upper line then bleeding fluid out through the caliper will draw air past the ABS pump. This would yield the same results as letting the reservoir run dry.

The only way I would try this would be to bleed the new upper hose at the banjo bolt that attaches it to the hard line. Leave the lower part of the system alone.
Maybe finish up with a vacuum bleeder at the M/C.

The hard lines are above the ABS pump and that is why working on the caliper and lower hose will not introduce air in the ABS pump (so long as you don't run the res dry).

You caught me. I answered the post without finishing reading it and"unencumbered by the thought process" (I fixed my post) :razz:

Thanks,

MD

[JTXR]

I spoke with my local dealer and they confirmed that the ABS brake system must have the ABS solenoids activated by their computer when the brakes are being bled.

However, my dealer was kind enough to point out my front master cylinder has the 14mm piston in it and that they will replace it with the 16mm master cylinder as part of a Triumph Service Bulletin and now they will be able to bleed my brakes free of charge! Only down side is having to wait a little longer until the new parts arrive before the service is performed.