Triumphrat

speede · 06-13-2007, 11:44 AM

I was reading the maintenance book last night and it says to install the shift linkage back onto the splines in the same position as it was removed....which doesn't help in that it was removed before I got it! Would someone please give me an idea of the correct angle for installation or post a picture for me?

oldndumb · 06-13-2007, 12:23 PM

There are usually two factory pin prick marks for alignment. One pin prick mark is on the lever and the other mark is on the shaft. Line the marks up and install. Adjust lever position with the rod ends.

speede · 06-13-2007, 12:38 PM

Fantastic. Thank you. I'll look tonight.

denman13 · 06-13-2007, 02:04 PM

Quote:

On 2007-06-13 10:23, oldndumb wrote:
There are usually two factory pin prick marks for alignment. One pin prick mark is on the lever and the other mark is on the shaft. Line the marks up and install. Adjust lever position with the rod ends.

Retired rocket mechanic. With the wealth of almost instantaneous technical info you have (and detail) I figured you for a serious gear-head. This bike stuff must be child's play for you. And here I was all proud of rebuilding two boat engines. :-D :-D

Ever think about doing an on-line instructional video on common bike repairs? You could even wear the Batman suit if you wanted to protect your anonymity. :razz:

oldndumb · 06-13-2007, 02:42 PM

Boat engines are pretty hight tech, so don't sell yourself short.
In so far as my technical knowledge goes, I must be doing a good job of falsifying my data. :-D
Lets wait and see if speede finds those marks.

speede · 06-13-2007, 10:18 PM

No dice on the marks I'm afraid. If someone would be kind enough to post a picture, I'm sure I could get it close.

My wife asked me what I was doing with the flood light in the garage...and I was damned if I was going to tell her I was crawling around looking for little pricks...fortunately the phone rang and she went away.

oldndumb · 06-13-2007, 11:49 PM

Yeah, I was afraid that was going to happen. Sometimes the marks can be pretty faint. Hope someone sends you a pic to get you in the ballpark.
What you will need to do is have the selector drum in the neutral position and the detent arm in the neutral cutout of the detent wheel, then position the linkage on the shaft. Sounds worse than it actually is. Doing it by reference to a pic could work the first time, or you'll be so close that one or two trys will do it.

Stlakid · 06-14-2007, 01:24 AM

I can't get you a picture right now but, see if this helps. My RS has both the shifter rod and clevis arm marked. The shifter rod (from the transmission) is punched at a perfect 6:00 position. The clevis arm when mounted with the marks aligned points to 1:00 in position. This arm and the shorter one on the rear of the shifter should be very close to parallel to each other when all is adjusted to your liking. So basically shifter drum in neutral and the clevis arm mounted to the transmission shaft should be very close to 1:00 position. Then just adjust the shifter height to your taste with the connection rod. (The one with the left and right hand nuts on it)

harrya13 · 06-14-2007, 08:04 AM

G'day.
I replace my shift linkage with a Speed 3 one a long time ago. Shift is more direct and you lose unnecessary hardware. I like it a lot..

ruscook · 06-14-2007, 08:47 AM

I offset my linkage by 1 or 2 splines on every bike I own, to lower the rest position of the gear lever.

I think they're all too high for quick upshifting. As does the Aussie brand of the California Superbike school who recommend the same thing. If it's good enough for them, who am I to argue :-D

Russ