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Old 05-28-2007   #21 (permalink)
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Strange that yor Home Depot did not have kerosene. Did you check the department that carries the kerosene space heaters? That is where I get it in one gallon cans.
Failing that, you should be able to get it at any True Value or Ace store.
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Old 05-28-2007   #22 (permalink)
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I've never considered mineral spirits for cleaning chains since obtaining kerosene has never been a problem.
I don't know of any reason not to use mineral spirits. A lot of less technical shops regularly use it for cleaning. The differences in flash point and ignition temperatur are minimal. The only major difference is vapor pressure.
If there is a problem with using mineral spirits, someone will let us know.
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Old 05-28-2007   #23 (permalink)
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The truth is your chain doesn't really need much lube because it's sealed. Just needs light lube and to be kept clean.
Let us take the opportunity to talk about why we lube the chain. The purpose of the lube is to create a thin film on the chain and sprocket where they contact and power is transfered. This film helps to minimize wear on both the chain and the sprockets, and thereby also minimizing heat. The heat can shorten the life of the seals on the chain.

Wax and oil work great initially, but both won't stay on for long and maintain their job. The wax will wear off and the oil will fling off.

The oil or wax will also help prevent dust and gunk from infiltrating the chain seals.

By the time any of us get to 500 miles, or even 300, whatever was on there is long gone.

I use a chain oiler. This way I am always adding lube .. grant you, my rear end is coated with grime, but I've got 21k on the original chain and sprockets.

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Old 05-28-2007   #24 (permalink)
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Jason, glad you were brave enough to bring up chain oilers. I use one and would never have a bike without it. My current chain has 7000 miles on it and has been adjusted once. But what I really like about it is how clean the chain looks. It took some initial adjustment, but I don't have any problem with oil spray on the bike. Oil does collect on the swing arm face adjacent to the sprocket and usually causes one drip onto the floor overnight. I just slip a small square of plywood under it to catch the drip.
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Old 05-28-2007   #25 (permalink)
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I feel like I'm about to throw myself into a pit of fire....... anyhow...

For what it's worth, RK Chain's faq lists using WD40 as okay--well, as a water displacer, which it's meant to be. It doesn't recommend using it as a lube though (but doesn't say not to, either).

http://www.ftmbiz.com/faq.html

[ This message was edited by: radix99 on 2007-05-28 17:01 ]
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Old 05-28-2007   #26 (permalink)
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On 2007-05-28 13:36, oldndumb wrote:
Strange that yor Home Depot did not have kerosene. Did you check the department that carries the kerosene space heaters? That is where I get it in one gallon cans.
Failing that, you should be able to get it at any True Value or Ace store.
Thanks, but for whatever reason they did not carry Kerosene. I bought the mineral spirits and it cleaned the chain well. Thanks for the info. on the mineral spirits.
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Old 05-28-2007   #27 (permalink)
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Ah, what they hey... I'm feeling talkative tonight so I'll throw my two cents in...

Personally, I've always used kerosene and a brush to clean my chains... time tested, works good. I have used WD-40 to clean a chain when I didn't have kerosene but I did so sparingly by spraying a rag and wiping the chain. My concern with WD-40 isn't that it is water based (it's not) but that it is a penetrant and I'm not so sure it wouldn't get behind the o-rings and possibly disolve some of the grease. I don't think I would ever go the Simple Green route though... it's like mixing water and oil, so to speak!

As for lube, I've been using Dupont Teflon Multi-Use Lube... also work well, lasts a long time. I pick it up at Lowe's for about $5 a can. Leaves a slight waxy film when it dries, no fling, no dirt pick-up.

There you go, my 2 ¢, worth substantially less, I'm sure!

Mark
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Old 05-29-2007   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:

Let us take the opportunity to talk about why we lube the chain. The purpose of the lube is to create a thin film on the chain and sprocket where they contact and power is transfered. This film helps to minimize wear on both the chain and the sprockets, and thereby also minimizing heat. The heat can shorten the life of the seals on the chain.

Wax and oil work great initially, but both won't stay on for long and maintain their job. The wax will wear off and the oil will fling off.
I would love to see some FACTS to back up these statements. I've had two bikes with chains that went 18K+ miles (after which I sold the bike so I do not now how long they lasted), with little to no maintenance at all. Just cleaning once or twice a year with kerosene and then a lube with a heavyweight oil. I think we are all to anal about our chains to tell the truth. lol
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Old 05-29-2007   #29 (permalink)
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On 2007-05-28 21:25, TripleTime wrote:
Ah, what they hey... I'm feeling talkative tonight so I'll throw my two cents in...

Personally, I've always used kerosene and a brush to clean my chains... time tested, works good. I have used WD-40 to clean a chain when I didn't have kerosene but I did so sparingly by spraying a rag and wiping the chain. My concern with WD-40 isn't that it is water based (it's not) but that it is a penetrant and I'm not so sure it wouldn't get behind the o-rings and possibly disolve some of the grease. I don't think I would ever go the Simple Green route though... it's like mixing water and oil, so to speak!

As for lube, I've been using Dupont Teflon Multi-Use Lube... also work well, lasts a long time. I pick it up at Lowe's for about $5 a can. Leaves a slight waxy film when it dries, no fling, no dirt pick-up.

There you go, my 2 ¢, worth substantially less, I'm sure!

Mark
I disagree with the no moisture in WD-40. It does shed moisture, but spray some on bare steel and see how long before it starts to corrode. Not very long. Baring chemical reaction, two things are needed for corrosion. Moisture and oxygen. I use a true moisture displacing oil in my gun shop, typically after bluing a firearm. For the heck of it after removing a piece from the bluing tank I hit it with WD-40. It did displace moisture. Then I sprayed it again with the real water displacing oil and it shed off the WD-40. This oil displaces moisture on a molecule for molecule basis. It shed the WD-40 due to the moisture content in it.
If you are comfortable with using these products, that's fine. I'm just throwing in my personal observations.

Don
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Old 05-29-2007   #30 (permalink)
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WOW! A pilot who knows his stuff!!!

I would almost say you sit next to god, unless of course you're a CFI, then you would be god. :wink:


Dolson, you couldn't be more correct!!! As an A&P Mechanic I remember about 10 years ago getting the A.D. (Airworthiness Directives) stating not to use Simple Green on Aircraft due to its corrosive nature.


As a note, I get harrased by my wife as she is a CFI, CFII, MEI & ATP. But I remind her that without an A&P, she would never leave the ground :-D


I don't ride fast, I just fly low!
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