Any tips for pulling the rear wheel off?

[Hokie]

I'm planning to pull the rear off tonight for the first time to take it in for new rubber tomorrow. I've read several threads on here regarding this, but thought I should ask just to make sure I didn't miss anything.

I picked up a 1 13/16" socket as suggested in MANY threads and know that I need to pull the exhaust can off to get access to the nut. Also read the torque should be 108 ft/lbs.

Anything else I should be aware of before getting into this? It looks fairly straight forward, but thought I should check.

Thanks in advance,
Shane

[stinky93071]

undo the nut and pull tire/wheel off.. much fast/easer then most bikes.

[Hokie]

:-D :-D :-D :-D

Thanks! that's what I was thinking, but just wanted to make sure there wasn't a secret trip wire connected to a springie thingie with a sensor wrapped around it and threaded through a fitting that would all fly out in 50 directions when I removed the wheel. You know, like most things I try to take apart.

-Shane

[pushr0d]

Hokie,

Note which way the locking pin is inserted, so you put it back in the same way. I then secure the pin with a small black ziptie.

Also, although you don't mention whether you have bags, I'll say that when I pull my rear wheel, I take the two 8mm bolts out of the front (latch0 mount, and muscle the hanger to the outside of the peg bracket. That gives you the room to get the wheel on and off.

Lastly, when you go to put the wheel on, wrap a small rag over the hub, so you don't accidently grrr up your wheel as you wrestle is back under the bike.

HTH

[Hokie]

Great tips! I do have the bags. Thanks!!!!

[SprintST]

When putting the wheel back on make sure the pins on the hub go back into their round holes, not the spaces between.

When pulling the wheel you'll find that the nut, washer and spacer, goes into an insert in the wheel that can, and probably will, fall out. Keep track of the order of washer and spacer.

You CAN break loose the nut without help, or a massive extra arm on the socket. Put the bike on it's centerstand. Put the bike in gear. Rock the wheel up against the transmission resistance. Place a block between the tire and the ground to assist in resisting turning. With your right foot apply the rear brake. Then loosen the nut using a normal breaking bar(I use a 1/2 inch drive one about 16" long myself). Reverse direction of block to torque when putting wheel back on. Though, the block may not be neccessary if your rear brake works well enough, and you've got the resistance of the motor to assist. It's just extra help.

[duckie]

Great advice SprintST

Haven't done it on the sprint yet but the front sprocket requires a bit more gymnastics if it's anything like doing it on my sv650s as you have to lean over the bike whilst standing on the rear brake and then try to put some muscle into your breaker bar without scratching any paintwork... of course you could be less prideful and ask your wife / friend for some help... :razz:

[Hokie]

I was thinking of putting the bike on the centerstand and having my wife sit on it and rock it back on the rear wheel with the brake engaged while I try to break it loose. Surely that would be sufficient.

-Shane

[oldgoat57]

Just apply the rear brake with one hand and crank the nut off the axle.

[REGULATOR]

click here

this is for the Daytona, but you'll get the idea, just take your sweet time around the bag mounts etc and you won't scratch the rim

you may also consider letting some air out of the tire to have more room to manuever (AMMV)