Triumphrat

stwanted · 03-10-2007, 06:45 PM

would love to hear any tips or tricks on changing chain and sprocket also i'm going to change to 18 tooth on front
2000 st

stwanted · 03-10-2007, 07:33 PM

Also just want to know if I change the chain and then later change the sprocket is there enough adjustment in the rear cam to account for smaller sprocket or would I be better off to rebreak the chain, take out a link and putt on another masterlink

Cuyose · 03-10-2007, 08:58 PM

You are in luck. I just did this today and it was WAY simpler than I thought.

Yes, there is definitely enough room to change it out without taking off the chain.

I actually didn’t change the chain, but can give a couple pointers on the sprocket replacement with existing chain.

First, you will need a 36M socket. Go to Sears, it is under $10. You will also need an 18m socket for the swing arm pinch bolt. Then you will need the 10m socket for the sprocket cover.

Take the cover off. You will see the HUGE nut on the front sprocket with a washer that has a side bent in to make sure the nut if it comes loose doesn’t twist off.

Use a screwdriver and hammer or something to bend this back flat.

Use your honkin 36m socket to remove the nut and washer thing. I found it wasn't torqued on super tight.

At the back wheel use the 18m socket and loosen the pinch bolt.

Now use your triumph spanner tool for adjusting the chain, if you don’t have this it looks like you could use a big pipe wrench but I am not sure. As you turn this you will immediately see the wheel move back or forward. It’s a cam so if you keep turning it it will go from tight to loose.

Once you find where it is loosest, run the slack part of the chain up to the front sprocket and remove the sprocket with chain attached off the spindle. You will have to work it around a bit to remover the 19T from in there, don't worry it will come out and the 18T is easier to get back in.

Do everything in reverse to button up.

One HUGE note is to turn the tire before tightening the pinch bolt down. I found that I was 180 degrees out of adjustment and the tire was scraping on the mudguard. It totally through me for a bit as it didn’t make any sense. If you take the spanner and keep rotating the adjuster it will scoot back down where it doesn't rub. You will see what I mean if you encounter this.

Good luck!

[ This message was edited by: Cuyose on 2007-03-10 19:00 ]

stwanted · 03-10-2007, 09:48 PM

When you talk about rubbing the mud guard can I assume that it was because the cam was positioned at a point the made the tire close to its highest possible point instead of its lowest?

stwanted · 03-10-2007, 10:22 PM

cuyose replied to me for anyone else who might want to know

"Correct, this was my first "cam" system so I didn't expect an up and down movement to accompany the back and forth. When adjusted back to its down position it took perfectly."

roadduster · 03-11-2007, 10:29 AM

And naturally, the rear sprocket is just as easy to do by first loosening the chain adjustment cam. It's as easy as the front sprocket. Also, I use Honda HP chain lube (Red can), absolutely no fling off the chain to soil your bike in any way.
roadduster

[ This message was edited by: roadduster on 2007-03-11 08:32 ]

JasonS · 03-11-2007, 11:06 AM

Great posts..... does anyone have a similar write up on changing out the chain as well?

Cuyose · 03-11-2007, 12:30 PM

With this setup that enables you to change the sprocket without breaking the chain, it is simple to change the chain as well. Since you will need to break the chain anyhow and re-assemble the rivet on the new chain.

If you are not changing the rear sprocket all you need to do is break the old chain and remove it.

then feed the new chain on and make sure that it is of sufficient length before you rivet anything. It is possible you may need to add a link(usually provided in kit) or you may need to remove a link or 2(much more difficult) you can use a dremel.

Once you have the length right you can use your chain rivet/breaker to install the rivets.

When doing this on my Bandit, I found it easiest to assemble the chain with rivit but do not crimp down, then rotate so that master link is in the middle of the rear sprocket so you have a steady position to rivet tool the link on.

obviously you want to replace the front sprocket with the 18T in between removal of the old chain and routing the new chain.

stwanted · 03-11-2007, 02:30 PM

Jason here are a few tips I've picked up
after breaking old chain do not just pull it right off first use a couple of garbage bag ties and tie one end of old chain to one end of new chain that way you can use old chain to pull the new one onto sprockets
also everyone and their mother on this site and elsewhere reccomend to keep the slack in the chain on the loose end of the reccomended specs
a chain that is too tight can screw up alot of things from what I am told

also a sprocket tip - dealers and RAT members inform me that, at least as far as the front sprocket, there is a rubber pad attached to the OEM front sprocket, aftermarket sprockets do not have that pad. Everyone says it is deffinatly there for some reason. so I would advise buying the OEM front sprocket - costs about $40 more for the front and about $15 more for the rear - bummer