Post inexpensive mods here

[REGULATOR]

From reading on this forum I've learned a few tricks that I'm planning on doing soon.

Change the front sprocket to 18T
A mufflerectomy ( preach mod) of some sorts for my 2001.

What else? Is there an Air filter that ties in well?
What tune should I run on my 2001?

what are some other nifty tricks that I can do?
I'm searching the site, but figured some of the old silverbacks could chime in

Oh I almost forgot, what about Spark plugs? just trying to think of all
teh hotrod tricks I've learned over the years that might apply to my Blue angel


[ This message was edited by: REGULATOR on 2004-08-05 04:55 ]

[shawboy]

Fueler did a really cheap unique backrest addition if you've got the rear rack:

Clicky

[dolson]

Probably the cheapest and most far ranging mod I've had done is to up the fuel pressure from the stock regulator setting of 40 psi to 60 or more.

It doesn't change anything but provides for a bit more richer mix throughout the entire mapping range which is what these babies need as they are mapped lean. I also believe that it provides a better spray pattern from the injectors.

It is much better behaved with absolutely no snatching off idle and just sings. MPG is still in the 48-56 MPG range depending on what I'm doing. Will also power the front off in 1st,2nd+3rd.

This is easily done by modifying the existing fuel pressure regulator or if you have a nice dealer he should give you one as he should have some recalled ones laying around. They might be a bit noisy but they work fine.

I'm working on a tech set of photos to share. But all that is necessary is to use a set of fitting sockets and squeeze the regulator spring hat to put more preload on the regulator spring. My dealer who recommended this had the whole thing done in about 15 min. and charged me $20. for labor but he did something else too at the time.

Though I don't recommend the hi flow air filters if you do put one on especially with a can you will need the extra fuel that the stock maps still won't provide as they are still on the lean side. This can be proven with the use of a TuneBoy/TuneEdit.

Don

from one of the "Old Silverbacks" :-D

[ This message was edited by: dolson on 2004-08-05 19:51 ]

[preachp]

Hi All,

03 Sprint ST
First baffle is a vertical steel plate aprox. 8-10" from the outlet of the pipe. Drilled a one inch hole.
This imp[roved the sound by making it deeper but gave no significant hp gain.

The second baffle is aprox. 16-20" in and is just before the inlet of the can. I drilled a one inch hole in this also. This increased the volume of the exhaust a little, but it gave a very different growl to the note. This also gave me a defined boost in go. And no this isn't just a seat of the pants thing. I noticed a faster climb ot redline and throttle only wheelies in first and second are pretty much on demand. I also noticed that the nose know elevates during hard acceleration and I have to watvh that in corners.

I will NOT recommend anybody do this! If you do so it is on you. BUT from what has been posted here it sounds like the 03's have two baffles and the earlier ones only have one. Drilling that baffle should change the note and possibly give a few ponies up. I do have a slight stutter off idle when cold but that has always been there. I have no clue as to what tune is in my bike.

Preachp

[frizbee_dog]

Preach, did the second baffle look exactly like the first one?

[Stlakid]

Bob that fender!
Cut the rear fender along the mold seam. File and clean up the cut. Now take your original license plate holder and flip it up-side down and remount it to the rear portion left showing which will be the rear most point of the under tray area where Triumph packs the tail light wires and turn signal wires. (I trimmed mine a bit, but it's not really necessary.) I suggest you lay out the height with the plate installed and any frame you may wish to use to check for interference. I used an aluminum black minimum frame and it tucks up very close indeed. Re-drill the sides of the same storage area (which is visible below the bodywork) for your turn signals. (reuse stock or get some smaller ones if you prefer) Price.....$0.00 to $25.00 depending on how much you spend on frame and or new turn signals!

Hint: If you want to use aftermarket turn signals the Stock Triumph connectors used on the turn signals is a standard .093" Molex connector available at any good electronics store. The connections are available at Radio Shack as well, but they do not carry the single Molex Male and Female body's.

[Stlakid]

Bob that fender!
Cut the rear fender along the mold seam. File and clean up the cut. Now take your original license plate holder and flip it up-side down and remount it to the rear portion left showing which will be the rear most point of the under tray area where Triumph packs the tail light wires and turn signal wires. (I trimmed mine a bit, but it's not really necessary.) I suggest you lay out the height with the plate installed and any frame you may wish to use to check for interference. I used an aluminum black minimum frame and it tucks up very close indeed. Re-drill the sides of the same storage area (which is visible below the bodywork) for your turn signals. (reuse stock or get some smaller ones if you prefer) Price.....$0.00 to $25.00 depending on how much you spend on frame and or new turn signals!

Hint: If you want to use aftermarket turn signals the Stock Triumph connectors used on the turn signals is a standard .093" Molex connector available at any good electronics store. The connections are available at Radio Shack as well, but they do not carry the single Molex Male and Female body's.

[Stlakid]

OOPS!

[preachp]

HI Frizbee,
Yeah pretty much. It is just a plate of steel at the inlet end of the pipe.


Preachp

[beers2u]

Will also power the front off in 1st,2nd+3rd.

Power wheelies in 3rd???