Triumphrat

thfwsf · 08-19-2004

I thought I replied to this, but it didn't take. So...

I got my CF can from the great internet garage sale referred to as eBay. I managed to get it for about 1/3 of what a new one CF costs. Was it perfect? No but it was in good shape. My CF can came from a sprint that was being parted out. I was lucky as the place parting out the Sprint was about 35 minute drive from where I work. So I picked it up and saved a few shipping dollars. Also got me out of the office for my lunch break.

eBay is one of those places where you need to do a little research before you buy something. Get an idea of what you should pay. Often times for just a few bucks more you can get something new. It's also a hit and miss proposition. You never know what you will find on it.

Tom
'01 Sprint ST

jvb · 08-20-2004

The outlet baffle is 300mm from the end of the pipe.
I cannot see a baffle on the inlet side, the angle of the inlet pipe restricts my view. I am not sure if my can has an inlet baffle. All though my bike is registered as a 2003 Sprint ST, the compliance plate date is 12/02.
Part no. on can is 2200132.
Bike no. on can is SMT600 0955
Maybe we can establish which models have only one baffle.
I was going to use a 35mm hole cutter on the outlet baffle first.

kdowell · 09-07-2004

Has anyone drilled a 2001 can?
Does anyone have any thoughts about the end results of doing so?

kdowell · 09-07-2004

Has anyone drilled a 2001 can?
Does anyone have any thoughts about the end results of doing so?

rash_powder · 09-16-2004

Quote:

On 2004-08-12 10:47, dolson wrote:
You can modify the pressure regulator. Take a look at the fuel panel pics. in our tech album. It's the thingy on the right.

Remove that and you can see that it has a flange and an indent in the top of what I call the hat. That's were the spring is. Get a large socket to support the unit on the outer flange and a smaller one to match the indent on the top of the hat.

This is where the rocket science and engineering come into play so pay attention :razz:

You put the regulator with sockets into a vise and squeeze a bit so the socket that's in the indent makes a deeper indent. How much? Using the the engineering term, TAR. (That's About Right)

This will make Dan'l freak and geek :razz:

This is why I am going to make some pics and using a depth mic. take some measurements of a stock one comparing to a modified one.

What you are doing is adding pre load to the spring underneath the hat changing the psi from the stock 40 to about 50 or 60 psi.

What this does is to enrichen the F/A ratio per injector shot across the board of the current map. In addition to a superior driveability and much crisper throttle response I have seen my MPG get more stable and even a bit better that before. It looks like the added pressure aids in the spray pattern from the injector. (Last little 200 mile trip loafing along I got 56.7 mpg.

I'd still advise getting another regulator to modify. They are easy to come by.

I see this as no different than changing the jetting on the carbed. twins to get a better running engine.

Don

don

what else have you done to your bike to get 57mpg? my 03 is all stock yet and the best i can get is about 42mpg.

i run the bike on the road at about 5000rpm, right near the torque peak as that should be the most efficient, right?

if i can get 57mpg, that would be great.

thanx for any tips,

rash

rash_powder · 09-16-2004

Quote:

On 2004-08-12 10:47, dolson wrote:
You can modify the pressure regulator. Take a look at the fuel panel pics. in our tech album. It's the thingy on the right.

Remove that and you can see that it has a flange and an indent in the top of what I call the hat. That's were the spring is. Get a large socket to support the unit on the outer flange and a smaller one to match the indent on the top of the hat.

This is where the rocket science and engineering come into play so pay attention :razz:

You put the regulator with sockets into a vise and squeeze a bit so the socket that's in the indent makes a deeper indent. How much? Using the the engineering term, TAR. (That's About Right)

This will make Dan'l freak and geek :razz:

This is why I am going to make some pics and using a depth mic. take some measurements of a stock one comparing to a modified one.

What you are doing is adding pre load to the spring underneath the hat changing the psi from the stock 40 to about 50 or 60 psi.

What this does is to enrichen the F/A ratio per injector shot across the board of the current map. In addition to a superior driveability and much crisper throttle response I have seen my MPG get more stable and even a bit better that before. It looks like the added pressure aids in the spray pattern from the injector. (Last little 200 mile trip loafing along I got 56.7 mpg.

I'd still advise getting another regulator to modify. They are easy to come by.

I see this as no different than changing the jetting on the carbed. twins to get a better running engine.

Don

don

what else have you done to your bike to get 57mpg? my 03 is all stock yet and the best i can get is about 42mpg.

i run the bike on the road at about 5000rpm, right near the torque peak as that should be the most efficient, right?

if i can get 57mpg, that would be great.

thanx for any tips,

rash

dolson · 09-17-2004

Hi rash, I think mine might not be typical. Don't know why but I keep pretty good records and what I get is what I get.

Engine wise the only thing I've done to this date is I went to and 18 tooth front sprocket and modified the fuel pressure regulator. Stock filter and can. Before I modified the FPR the mileage was rather inconsistent. Ratting around and really pushing it in the hills I'd get 42-44 mpg depending on how I felt that day. On a course like I took the other day She'd get right at 52-54.
Since upping the F/P it's more stable and higher. Now, really pushing it in the hills with my idiot buddies I never get less than 47 and in the same loop in the mountains she get 56 and change.

Though from new in stable cruise mode 52 was normal.

I think what has happened is going to the 18 t. front there is more thrust available and needs less throttle opening to go and to accelerate when needed.

Using the same map the increased F/P will en-richen the F/A ratio but also I believe give a much better spray pattern providing a better mixing in the chamber and a better burn. This I think is a bit more efficient again requiring less throttle opening for a given situation.
These may be "busy theory's" but in my misspent yout I tuned a few injected and blower cars and this seems to make sense to me.

Whatever the reason my bike likes it and I have about 6000 miles with this combination.

As far as power the real world dyno for me was on hwy138 from 97 to Crater Lake. Straight as a string for about 10 miles.
There was nothing to be seen so I pinned it until I shut off at 8500 rpm in top gear due to the buffeting off the Givi bags and the back end was knocking around a bit probably because the rear tire was about shot. But the way it was pulling I'm pretty sure it would have hit the rev limiter. This is at the 6000' elevation level. Of course the air is less dense meaning less drag but also on the other hand the mill is down on power too.
So I guess it's a wash.

It does sound like you are a little low in the mpg thing.
how many miles do you have?

Don

dolson · 09-17-2004

Hi rash, I think mine might not be typical. Don't know why but I keep pretty good records and what I get is what I get.

Engine wise the only thing I've done to this date is I went to and 18 tooth front sprocket and modified the fuel pressure regulator. Stock filter and can. Before I modified the FPR the mileage was rather inconsistent. Ratting around and really pushing it in the hills I'd get 42-44 mpg depending on how I felt that day. On a course like I took the other day She'd get right at 52-54.
Since upping the F/P it's more stable and higher. Now, really pushing it in the hills with my idiot buddies I never get less than 47 and in the same loop in the mountains she get 56 and change.

Though from new in stable cruise mode 52 was normal.

I think what has happened is going to the 18 t. front there is more thrust available and needs less throttle opening to go and to accelerate when needed.

Using the same map the increased F/P will en-richen the F/A ratio but also I believe give a much better spray pattern providing a better mixing in the chamber and a better burn. This I think is a bit more efficient again requiring less throttle opening for a given situation.
These may be "busy theory's" but in my misspent yout I tuned a few injected and blower cars and this seems to make sense to me.

Whatever the reason my bike likes it and I have about 6000 miles with this combination.

As far as power the real world dyno for me was on hwy138 from 97 to Crater Lake. Straight as a string for about 10 miles.
There was nothing to be seen so I pinned it until I shut off at 8500 rpm in top gear due to the buffeting off the Givi bags and the back end was knocking around a bit probably because the rear tire was about shot. But the way it was pulling I'm pretty sure it would have hit the rev limiter. This is at the 6000' elevation level. Of course the air is less dense meaning less drag but also on the other hand the mill is down on power too.
So I guess it's a wash.

It does sound like you are a little low in the mpg thing.
how many miles do you have?

Don

rash_powder · 09-20-2004

i just got my 03 st as a holdover this spring. picked it up in may and have just about 3000 miles on it. i think it was actually getting better mileage before the 1000 mile maintenance. also, i followed the break in procedure the dealer gave me - follow the manual and give it the occasional rev up to 6000ish to help seat rings and such. i think the elevation here in grand forks north dakota is about 900 feet; thats what my old gps says anyway. i use the 91 octane fuel also.

rash

ctballos · 11-02-2004

I just installed the GenMar bar risers. Wow what a difference an inch and a quarter makes. I can't believe it. My riding position has only slightly changed but the shift in body weight, to the back, is phenomenal. Much less pressure on the grips/wrists/elbows. Less of my weight on the steering which makes it feel like I suddenly got power steering. Much more responsive because I am sitting back a bit with less force on the handlebars. Turns seem to take place much quicker. I think I found that balance point which places me in the center of the bikes weight.

A couple of week ago I dropped a tooth to 18 teeth on the front sprocket. Again, wow, the bike is more responsive and pulls much stronger in the lower gears, heck in all the gears. But I can run in first gear at an idle, nicely, without the worry of bucking.

I know I shouldn't have but I also installed a K&N air filter. When I rip into the throttle the roaring sound combination of the exhaust and intake is orgasmic. Remember what a four barrel carburetor sounded like when you punched the accelerator pedal, oh ya. That in combination with the mufflerectomy and the 18 tooth front sprocket have change the way the bike performs. It is quicker on the get up and go but moreover it just purrs at 4k in 6th running 70 mph through the countryside.

I love my Sprint ST,
ctballos