Post inexpensive mods here

[H2Orat]

I intend to replace all three with HID. Frankly, I think they're all gutless, and I'm hoping to put an end to the pucker factor when riding anything other than a flat, straight road after dark. Also, 8K deg. isn't too far off the bright white area of the scale, so it should be OK. Let us know how it works out for you...

[Michaelofficer]

Originally Posted by H2Orat

I intend to replace all three with HID. Frankly, I think they're all gutless, and I'm hoping to put an end to the pucker factor when riding anything other than a flat, straight road after dark. Also, 8K deg. isn't too far off the bright white area of the scale, so it should be OK. Let us know how it works out for you...

Apart from electricity, to make an HID lamp work you need an ignitor to strike the arc and a ballast to limit the current ie. keep it going.
Like brakes, ballasts (in their very nature) get warm. With that warmth comes a reduction in efficiency, so it makes good sense to dissipate heat within the ballast.
To achieve that, I ran the majority of the HID loom inside, with the exception of my (single) ballast which I mounted using spacers and cable ties out of sight, but exposed to the considerable flow of air which climbs the forks tunnel whilst underway.
A pro-oiler had been fitted to the bike before I bought it so I was obliged to fit my ballast on the left side of the fork tunnel.

It is not imperative that you ventilate your ballasts, I chose to do so out of a wish to achieve engineering efficiency and to avoid faults.

P.S.: I'm rather perplexed by your wish to convert all 3 lamps to HID.
The reason for this is, we are unable (as non manufacturers) to change the geometry of the lamp assembly. Replacing the "dip" lamps with HID will increase the contrast, but not the cut-off.
If you are seeking symmetry in your lighting then I take my cap off to you Sir, I wish I was able to afford the same.
M

[H2Orat]

Originally Posted by Michaelofficer

P.S.: I'm rather perplexed by your wish to convert all 3 lamps to HID.
The reason for this is, we are unable (as non manufacturers) to change the geometry of the lamp assembly. Replacing the "dip" lamps with HID will increase the contrast, but not the cut-off.
M

The reason I want to convert all three to HID is simple: any improvement to the current setup is worth pursuing, even if limited by the reflector cutoff. In the case of the high beam, we're both on the same page, but the HID low beams I have in my car are so much better than conventional halogen lights, there's no reason not to want the same for the Sprint. Granted, there's the cutoff to contend with, but I still think that brighter is better, and provided that I don't raise the beams to where they're shining directly into drivers' eyes, I think there's a benefit to be realized. For the ballasts, I've seen (on this forum, I think) where they've been located in the space under the fairing's "dashboard", which (I think) is where you installed yours?

[Michaelofficer]

Originally Posted by H2Orat

For the ballasts, I've seen (on this forum, I think) where they've been located in the space under the fairing's "dashboard", which (I think) is where you installed yours?

Firstly, may I formally doff my cap in respect. I cannot fault your logic I merely wish I could afford to do the same with the lighting.

I like the 8000K light output. I would describe it as white - not blue, however, it does make the existing halogen dip lamps look positively yellow! I have discovered while riding at speed in Continental France and Spain that the new lamp makes roadsigns stand out as much as 800meters away. Further, the colour helps me notice furry creatures on the road from a longer way off. I approve of this.

Re the above quote: the water expansion bottle is located on the left side of the forks well. there is a cross support aft of that which I used to provide a fixing for my ballast. There is not much room there , but there might be enough for three ballasts. I would DEFINATELY allow an air-gap between each ballast, otherwise you may well be treated to the smell of frying!

Very good luck to you.
M

[dolson]

I think the only thing that has irked me about my '02 Sprint was that it takes about 2 handfuls to go from normal to wide open throttle. I never liked to have to reposition my hand to do this.

Those that might be interested there is a very easy and very cheap solution.

Order a 1050 throttle grip for, mine cost $10.15 at the dealer.
PN#T2040331 Grip/ right hand/Throttle

The 1050 throttle cable cam is a larger diameter cam than what the 955's have.

The change is easy.

Start by loosening the top throttle cable adjuster to provide some slack in the cable.

Unscrew the two screws that hold the throttle grip housing. This is what covers the cable ends and holds the grip on. Don't loose a screw down the black hole of the fairing.

You will see there are two cable ends and it is self explanatory on how to remove the cable ends from the throttle cam. Remove the cable ends and remove the grip from the bar.

Reverse the procedure in reassembly. When putting the housing halves make sure you have the cable ends snapped in properly. There are tabs and guides so it's pretty fool proof. Refasten the housing after fishing the one screw you dropped down the fairing with a magnet.

The only part that might be tricky is readjusting the throttle cable tension.
WARNING THIS IS A CRITICAL SAFETY ISSUE IF YOU ARE NOT SURE HOW TO ADJUST THE THROTTLE CABLE TENSION PROPERLY HAVE A DEALER DO IT.

That said, if the tension is too tight a couple of things will happen.
With the engine started if it is too tight the engine will rev higher when you move the bars side to side and or the throttle will feel sticky and not snap closed. You need just a little free play.

The difference in throttle throw is very pronounced.
Imagine a dot at the grip's 12 O'clock position. With the stock 955 grip turning the grip to wide open throttle that dot will go to about the 6:30-7:00 position.
With the 1050 grip the dot goes from the 12 to the 9:30 position at WOT.

A less than 1/4 quick twist throttle for 10 bucks and small change and about 15 minutes time.

It is a bit touchy until you get used to it.

For those that want their power now, this is an easy way to do it.

Just be careful.

Don

[CharlieS]

:

Originally Posted by dolson

I think the only thing that has irked me about my '02 Sprint was that it takes about 2 handfuls to go from normal to wide open throttle. I never liked to have to reposition my hand to do this.

Those that might be interested there is a very easy and very cheap solution.

Order a 1050 throttle grip for, mine cost $10.15 at the dealer.
PN#T2040331 Grip/ right hand/Throttle

The 1050 throttle cable cam is a larger diameter cam than what the 955's have.

The change is easy.

The difference in throttle throw is very pronounced.
A less than 1/4 quick twist throttle for 10 bucks and small change and about 15 minutes time.

It is a bit touchy until you get used to it.

For those that want their power now, this is an easy way to do it.

Just be careful.

Don
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dolson,

Thankyou, sir! This will make me and my new 2002 Sprint ST very happy. I was just complaining (sort of) about this to a friend the other day. I'll be off to the dealer tomorrow. :

---Charlie

[dolson]

Make sure you get the correct PN# T2040331.

I'm thinking but not sure it is for a 1050 TIGER. Same O Same O. If this is so it should also work on the 1050 Sprints as I think that has the small cam too. But not sure of this.

[doughnut]

Cheapest (<$2USD) and best mod so far:
Caterpillar cruise control. O-ring on the throttle bar-end I can roll between the bar-end and grip to hold the throttle.
Caterpillar part 8M-4991

[cvansice]

before you try a new comfy seat try the gelco seat. just slaps onto the stock seat and you can take it on and off as needed
http://www.gelcoproducts.com/ProductLine.html

[Victusvita]

Originally Posted by Stlakid

Bob that fender!
Cut the rear fender along the mold seam. File and clean up the cut. Now take your original license plate holder and flip it up-side down and remount it to the rear portion left showing which will be the rear most point of the under tray area where Triumph packs the tail light wires and turn signal wires. (I trimmed mine a bit, but it's not really necessary.) I suggest you lay out the height with the plate installed and any frame you may wish to use to check for interference. I used an aluminum black minimum frame and it tucks up very close indeed. Re-drill the sides of the same storage area (which is visible below the bodywork) for your turn signals. (reuse stock or get some smaller ones if you prefer) Price.....$0.00 to $25.00 depending on how much you spend on frame and or new turn signals!

Hint: If you want to use aftermarket turn signals the Stock Triumph connectors used on the turn signals is a standard .093" Molex connector available at any good electronics store. The connections are available at Radio Shack as well, but they do not carry the single Molex Male and Female body's.

do you have a photo of the finished product, please?