Post inexpensive mods here

[Panthers_Den]

Actually the height is stock, I didn't add any risers to mine. But I do get beat around a lot by the wind. Usually the only way I can avoid it (either from the front or the sides) is if I almost lay on the tank. It gets annoying fast and it wears me down faster too since I have to fight the wind beating on my head as well.

[skrap1r0n]

Ahh ok, see the ST has about an extra inch on the risers than the RS. I'll show you what I mean tomorrow.

[Panthers_Den]

Woohoo! My new windscreen came in today! I installed it, tried it, and love it! I posted pics of it in my photo album :-) I bought the blue MRA double bubble screen.

[skrap1r0n]

wow that does look sharp. I like that Blue. I can't get one because my windscreen has to stay as I cannot get another White Rabbit sticker, and I WON'T part with that sticker unless I absolutely have to.

Also, another consideration regarding the bobblehead and buffeting effect, I have recently read somewhere that certain helmets aren't rated for speed, while others are. IIRC, the new Shoei and Arai lids are rated at 200mph, while some of the others are only rated at 100mph. True, you won't be going that fast, bit the design smooths the airstream. Also, this may or may not be a fact, as I said I heard it somewhere.

[ This message was edited by: skrap1r0n on 2006-01-31 10:18 ]

[Panthers_Den]

On 2006-01-31 10:16, skrap1r0n wrote:
wow that does look sharp. I like that Blue. I can't get one because my windscreen has to stay as I cannot get another White Rabbit sticker, and I WON'T part with that sticker unless I absolutely have to.

I'll have to check that sticker out next time I see you. I didn't notice it before. hehe

Also, another consideration regarding the bobblehead and buffeting effect, I have recently read somewhere that certain helmets aren't rated for speed, while others are. IIRC, the new Shoei and Arai lids are rated at 200mph, while some of the others are only rated at 100mph. True, you won't be going that fast, bit the design smooths the airstream. Also, this may or may not be a fact, as I said I heard it somewhere.

Well the helmet I have is a racing helmet so I'd be very surprised if it couldn't handle high speeds ;-)

Here's a snipet of the info on the helmet I have:

VR2 - Mirage
Professional Racing Helmet

KBCs top of the range Professional Racing Helmet. Designed specifically for Ultra high performance race use. The Mirage (VR2) is a totally race specific product. KBC believe a truly race specific helmet should be the minimum overall size and dimensions, with minimum projected extrusions which can interfere with the aerodynamic stability and helmet turbulence at Ultra high speeds. The helmet should be a smaller tighter closer fitment, when compared with normal street helmets, this allows the riders to "Tuck" under the screen, and allow fast and effective head turning over the shoulder with minimum head and neck strain.

[ST-ern]

On 2006-01-30 19:28, Panthers_Den wrote:
Woohoo! My new windscreen came in today! I installed it, tried it, and love it! I posted pics of it in my photo album :-) I bought the blue MRA double bubble screen.

Hey PD,

what's the difference as you ride, esp. at speed? how tall are you?

[ This message was edited by: ST-ern on 2006-02-20 20:55 ]

[RSRAT]

Issues after fuel regulator and sprocket changes !

I've had my Triumph dealer try to do these mods for me, thinking it might be safer that way. Here's what's transpired so far-- and I'd appreciate feedback from those here who may be able to shed some light- thanks:

after I provided a new, separate fuel pressure regulator for modifying, they removed my old one and gave it to me to keep, noting it had been producing 42 psi when removed. they modified the new one according to the specs I printed out from the web site here and got it to output 52psi. they installed it and then reported they'd gotten some fuel leaks, which they were able to stop just by tightening the hose clamps. I think those were probably the connections that had been involved when they'd previously performed the recall involving fuel connectors about a year or so ago, so perhaps they hadn't sufficiently tightened them back then. In any event, they were pretty reluctant to try to up the fuel pressure any further in view of those leaks, thinking that I might see other leaks resulting from the increased pressure.

has anyone else here encountered this problem? If so, what do you think about it? Should I ask them to go ahead and run it up to about 60psi and just be watchful for any line leaks for a while afterward? or should I just stop at the 52psi and leave it at that? If I stop there, will there be any benefit over the original line pressure?

regarding the 18T sprocket installation:

my bike is a 2002 Sprint RS with 13K miles. It has the double sided swing arm and had it's 12K and other servicing on schedule. The chain appears in good shape with little or no stretch at this point. the dealer installed the new sprocket and gave me back the oem 19T sprocket to keep. they first reported it ran great. when I went to pick it up, the service manager rolled it out and noticed immediately a rubbing sound at the rear. it seems that on my bike, with a rear hugger installed, that the amount of rear wheel movement forward to accomodate the chain adjustment has put the tire into contact with the inside front area of the hugger. this is partly a result of them telling me that unless they took out two links and substituted a new riveted master link in their place there would not be sufficient length at the rear of the swing arm chain adjuster assembly to take out all the slack that the smaller sprocket created. however, when making the adjustments with the new links in place, the wheel now contacts the hugger slightly. so, the solution at the moment seems to be removing the hugger and reinstalling the original chain guard. this is disappointing since I'd like to keep the hugger in place, but also concerns me since I'm surprised that they had to make that much adjustment just to get a one tooth smaller sprocket on the bike. I've not heard anyone else mention this problem so I'd appreciate hearing anyone else's thoughts about all this. Is it possible there is some other explanation, or is it just that no one else who's done this happened to have a hugger on their bike.? Thanks.

[ruscook]

How the Loobman works - a $50AUS, 16GBP semi-auto chain lube device.

This is a simple easy to fit device to simplify chain maintenance. I put one on the 05 Sprint ST. Will report on how it works later. But have previsouly used the much more expensive Scottoiler and got 43000K out of a stock chain/sprocket set. I expect the Loobman to achieve similar results. But how it works isn't intuitive from the web site (it definitely is once you've seen/installed one though)

So here's my attempt to describe it.

It's like siphoning fuel from a petrol tank or container (we've all done that once or twice when vehicles had carby's and no trip computer :-) ) you pump the soft resevoir bottle to start the flow & gravity takes over from there.

Imagine this being roughly vertical:
outer sleeve, seal is not 100% so creates air gap
tube from bottle / gap / lower tube to delivery mechanism/sprocket
lower half of outer sleeve - see below

. --------------
------\ \------
. --------------


So what happens is you pump the bottle to move some oil into the hose. This is a two piece hose with an air gap (so it doesn't set up a continuous flow like siphoning from a higher to lower bottle normally would). Therefore only what you've pumped in flows down the hose. This is probably between 2-5ml. The oil you've pumped in flows own the hose by gravity, but as it's a small hose and oil is relatively thick, it flows slowly. As it reaches the head (which is a plastic bracket with 2 cut off cable ties), it flows to either side of the sprocket.

The sprocket spins, flicking the oil into the chain, mostly at the edges where the "o'rings are - quite ingenious.

So to oil the chain.
1) Check resevoir - refill if necessary
2) prepare to go for a ride,
3) prime/pump resevoir bottle (only fill up to air gap so it doesn't overflow) to start lube
4) ride for 50-500km
5) repeat steps 1-4 as necessary :-D :-D

So Scottoiler is auto driven with small drips being delivered 2-3 per minute. Loobman, is a manual pump that delivers enough oil on a 30km ride to lube chain without dripping but then needs to be repeated whenever you want to lube.

As it takes less than 5secs, a short squeeze before comuting to work on once/twice on a big day ride is now problem. It is also significantly cheaper and easier to fit than a scottoiler.

Oh, don't crimp the feed tube as it will (obviously) restrict flow.

Scottoiler recommend certain oils for the right viscosity to achieve the 2-3 drips a minute. Loobman don't care as it only delivers enough oil to coat the chain in that first 20-30km. They even recommend 10-40W engine oil.

I'm using the old Hypoid gear oil (90/140 I think it is, but it may be too thick) as I bought 4 ltrs when I bought the TDM and 66,000 KM later I have over 2 ltrs left :-) Guess I may have to waste that remaining $8 of oil and use engine oil. Considering the resevoir bottle is only about 300ml I don't think this is a real issue.

Russ
pictures here: http://bikes.no-ip.info/Sprint

[Stlakid]

You could 'cut' the gear oil with some Transmission fluid to thin it. Transmission fluid is close to 5w and is highly detergent which might help keep things a little cleaner. It doesn't cost much either. Just a thought.

[ruscook]

On 2006-03-01 11:47, Stlakid wrote:
You could 'cut' the gear oil with some Transmission fluid to thin it. Transmission fluid is close to 5w and is highly detergent which might help keep things a little cleaner. It doesn't cost much either. Just a thought.

That's a thouhgt - thanks.
Russ