Triumphrat

Iggy762 · 10-28-2006

My 45k valve check/adjustment is coming up. I got a ballpark estimate of $200 for just the valves (+ throttle sync.)

My buddy says I should just do it myself. I've only done the valves on a Ninja 250....and even these weren't fun (I should have bought the tool).

But anyways, what kind of valves did the 2002 RS's have? Do they require that you remove the cam? If not, can I use a shim tools like this? http://geocities.com/mustanggarage/shim_tool.html

Are there any write-up's on this? I'm trying to decide whether or not to do it myself or take it in to the dealer.

Thanks.

rodneybrown · 10-28-2006

Short answer is they absolutely do require you to pull the cams to replace shims.

Long answer is, pop the top and measure them because there is a super good chance they do not need to be replaced. If they do, you can still take the bike in to be done by a mechanic. My outlook is YES, I CAN do it but $200 means that somebody who has done it numerous time will do it. Do you want to learn how to do it? Get someone who has done it before to assist. A screw up on cam timing can be expensive.

Iggy762 · 10-28-2006

Quote:

On 2006-10-28 21:15, rodneybrown wrote:
Short answer is they absolutely do require you to pull the cams to replace shims.

Long answer is, pop the top and measure them because there is a super good chance they do not need to be replaced. If they do, you can still take the bike in to be done by a mechanic. My outlook is YES, I CAN do it but $200 means that somebody who has done it numerous time will do it. Do you want to learn how to do it? Get someone who has done it before to assist. A screw up on cam timing can be expensive.

I was afraid someone might say that. What kind of valves are these exactly..? (the design name)

I guess after New Year's I can tear the bike down first and measure the clearances.......

Anyone in Pittsburgh looking to pass on some knowledge
:-D :hammer:

[ This message was edited by: Iggy762 on 2006-10-28 21:22 ]

93-Daytona · 10-29-2006

Hi Iggy, if your RS is the last of the early type engine, the shims are 'overbucket' 25mm dia and do not require cam removal unless you don't have the Triumph valve tool. Engine easily identified by the alternator mounted behind and above the starter motor.
If your engine is the last 955i version, (internal alternator mounted to the LH side of the crankshaft), the shims are 'underbucket' 9mm dia. and definately require the cams to be removed when changing shims.
The cams are located by two outrigger caps as in the earlier engine, but also are fitted with a one piece cam bearing ladder instead of 8 individual bearing caps as found in all Triumph engines up to 2001.
I would agree with rodneybrown, and first measure the clearances yourself,you may find they're ok.
Clearance range for the EARLY engine is 0.10-0.15mm IN and 0.15-0.20mm EX.
Clearance range for the NEW engine is 0.10-0.20mm IN and 0.20-0.30mm EX.
Aim for the middle of these measurements if the cams get removed, the more even the clearances the better for better performance and smoother running.
Torque setting on cam caps is the same for both engines, 10Nm.
If removed, be sure to replace the 3 orings under the cam ladder on the later engine.
3 large seals sit on the ladder around the plug tunnels, be sure the notches in the seals 'mate with the ribs in the ladder on refittting.
Six cam cover screws on the new engine, eight on the early, so two less seals to replace!
EASY ON THE SEALANT!
The whole job could be done by yourself with patience and care, but getting your dealer to do it can be a better bet if you trust them.
Cheers

mikey · 10-29-2006

Ok guys I just read this and it looks like I have the early engine :-D In your posting you mention a Triumph valve tool is this tool epensive to buy?
It's my intention to keep the bike unless something goes terribly wrong with it.I figure I could resell the tool to another Triumph owner in that case.
Cheers Mikey

93-Daytona · 10-29-2006

Hi Iggy, the tool you will need is #3880012, and cost nearly $400NZ 4 years ago, should be cheaper by now.
Here's something that will make the shim removal quicker and less frustrating. When the valve is compressed by the leg on the tool use compressed air to break the seal of oil between the shim and follower.
I also use a magnetic pick up held close to the shim I'm working on. The tip of the gun is placed in the slot of the follower. You will hear a distinct 'pop' wen the shim is released. Sometimes you will need half a dozen 'shots' of air to break the seal. Picking and poking around to get the shim out can be frustrating on the exhaust side with the cooling system limiting visability.
Remember too to rotate the engine 4-6 times then remeasure before closing up after shimming.
Cheers Kerry

Iggy762 · 10-29-2006

Kerry,

Thanks for all the information :chug:

It looks like I have the newer 955i *sigh*

Sprint Left
Sprint Right

We'll see how I feel in a few months when it comes time to do them.

-Iggy

93-Daytona · 10-29-2006

In fact Iggy you have the better engine in a lot of aspects. He's a few of the better features.
Firstly having the alternator inboard as opposed to being out in the battle collecting dust and gravel is a good thing.
So too the starter sprag. The early engines up to '94 had a very convienient cover over the sprag making it a fairly simple task, but no where as easy as your machine. The entire starter system is very conienient to service now, just don't loose the wavy washers and spacers found on the shafts.Also when rotating the engine you need only to remove the plug on the RH engine cover (17mm) rather than remove an entire cover and having to fit a new gasket.
Bigger inlet valves, shorter pistons, shorter cam chain, smaller gudgeons,cnc machined head spheres incorporating a specially machined, 'flash-over' shield at the spark plug opening, the list goes on....

oh yeah, and no tool required for shimming
Good machine Iggy, love these engines

steventhechef · 10-29-2006

Iggy762 don't be despondent. The later models are a bit quieter through design and more ponies.

You have the better engine out of the two.

Iggy762 · 10-29-2006

Thanks for the nice words :-D

The "sigh" was more towards the valves. I like doing all the work myself when it comes to cars and bikes, but this time it may be worth the extra bucks to have it done by an expert.

This Triumph dealer did a lot of the work for the first 40k miles (for the first owner). Too bad for me he's 40min south of me.

Oh well......thanks again! :wink:

-Iggy