rear wheel nut/socket question - '00 model ST

Hi,

I recently bought a Sears 1 13/16" socket to remove the rear wheel of my '00 ST. I realized I need to carry this piece when I ride when none of the motorcycle shops in Ridgecrest, CA could replace my rear tire as they didn't have the tool and I was 400 miles from home.

Anyway, the socket seems to be the correct size, but there appears to be very little of the rear wheel nut accessible for the socket to engage. I'd guess about 1/4" to 1/3" of the nut is protruding. The "wall thickness" of the socket prevents it from slipping further in between the nut and the big black "hub" that surrounds the nut.

Is this normal? Or do other sockets have a thinner "wall" that allow them to slip past the "hub" to access more of the nut?

The last thing I want is to have the nut rounded off when I'm in the middle of nowhere.

Thanks!
Colin

[SprintST]

I've been using a Craftsman 1 13/16" for years now. Hasn't rounded it off at all, even after all the tires I've used between the 2 Sprint STs I've owned for a combined 120k miles. But I also haven't figured out how to travel with the big honkin' thing, and a breaker bar to use it. I thought I was onto something with some wrenches I saw a Buell guy using to adjust preload on his shock. He got them from McMaster-Carr, they're called a check nut wrench, or 30 deg Angle Thin-Head Short-Handle wrenches. But I haven't goten around to buying on to try out. The first problem I see is it might be too short to get enough leverage on it to overcome the 107 ft/lbs of torque on the nut itself. Someone else might find different though.

Does your socket have the same minimal amount of engagement with the nut?

It's definitely a big tool. I'm going to put it in my topcase on long rides. I'm not going to carry a breaker bar nor try to use it myself on the road to remove the wheel.

I just want to have it available for a non-Triumph shop to "borrow" if I need a tire replaced.

[ This message was edited by: curvesurfer on 2006-08-02 10:06 ]

[SprintST]

Yeah, it probably doesn't cover the entire nut face. It doesn't help that it's also not a perfectly square face, as I recall it's shouldered, or tapered, at the top. Which reduces the face a little.

Really I've found, I can break the nut loose with an ordinarly length breaker bar, the bike in gear, and pushing down on the brake pedal. So it can be done.

[jeffster]

I just bought the same 1 13/16" socket with 3/4" drive. It WILL fit under the seat with the tool kit. Also, Sears has a fairly compact 1/2" drive socket and you can get the 3/4" to 1/2" drive reducer. My mechanic said that as long as the circlip will go in the hole and then surround the nut, then it is torqued enough.
I just had a flat, so first I plugged it and also filled it with the "sealer." That didn't hold perfectly so I put a little extra rubber on the outside, took a torch and vulcanized it. Then it only lost 1 # of air/day. ME VULCAN !! Then took it in today to have the tire removed, then put an inside patch on it, as well. I won't be trying a top speed run anytime soon, however. Am I risking my life my not putting on a new tire ? In a recent article, Sport Rider recommended going no faster than 45 with just the external patch because it could blow out - they recommended it for emergency use only.

[Doublenikkel]

The actual size of the rear wheel retaining nut on the single sided swing arms , is a 46mm. Correct torque is 146nm, that is around 105ft.lbs. or so. I purchased mine from a mobile Mac tools truck for about 25 dollars. I got the impact style with a 3/4 inch drive. These are a 6 sided socket and fit the nut very well. I only carry the nut removal tool that comes in the kit, I know this will come back to haunt me someday, but I have practiced using it to remove the nut before. I`m a big guy so just putting a few firm boots to it has worked. :clown:

[SprintST]

On 2006-08-03 18:14, Doublenikkel wrote:
The actual size of the rear wheel retaining nut on the single sided swing arms , is a 46mm. Correct torque is 146nm, that is around 105ft.lbs. or so. I purchased mine from a mobile Mac tools truck for about 25 dollars. I got the impact style with a 3/4 inch drive. These are a 6 sided socket and fit the nut very well. I only carry the nut removal tool that comes in the kit, I know this will come back to haunt me someday, but I have practiced using it to remove the nut before. I`m a big guy so just putting a few firm boots to it has worked. :clown:

I think most of us know that the true nut size is in mm. But the 1 13/16" size is much easier to lay hands on, for those of us in America.

I gotta ask, what nut removal tool in the tool kit? I've had both a 99 and an 02, and neither had anything that big in it. Closest thing is the chain adjustment tool. Am I missing something here?

[SprintST]

Another thing to consider if your going to expect a rear tire change at a non-Triumph store is they may not be able to balance it as the Triumph SSSA wheel is different from just about anything. Closest chance of fitting an adaptor is probably a Ducati. A dealer network just as limited. I made up a spacer kit from simple PVC pipe pieces to fit a static balancer.

[BazzaST]

A friend and myself have made up some home made tools for removing both front and rear wheels on the sprints.
Tool for the rear is made out of a piece of mild steel 7cmx18cm, 5mm thick, what we did was take the rear hub nut and scribe out the outline of the nut 8mm one end, cut or profile cut the centre out, to make a ring spanner (us box wrench).

When cut out round out the shape and make the rest into a handle about 2cm wide, the tool should end looking similar to the C wrench for adjusting the chain, plus I carried a piece of pipe about 30cm long and 2.5cm OD, flatted on end to fit over the wrench.

Front wheel removal, one 10mm bolt with a 19mm head, heated up with the oxy torch and bend to a right angle to make an Allen key. Have used these over a year. Barry :hammer: :-D

[chasbl100]

Hi BazzaST
Great idea about the rear wheel tool, I will make one myself when I get time. With regards to your fornt wheel tool, I simply cut off about 50 mil of 19 mil hex and I use it with a 19 mil 1/2" drive socket. Much easier to torque up.